J-Madd

The adjustment screw is too short on some of the aftermarket levers. Put your stock adjustment screw back in and see if you can get it tight enough to only have about 1/8 inch play before the cable starts to engage the clutch.

Where are you from?

This getting very confusing, making me even second guess what I think I know. 1) +4mm crank = Spacer plate OR cut domes. 2) Long rod = 795 series pistons. Either of the above (1 OR 2) can be done without the other, or am I wrong?

Yep. I've had two clips come off of mine. I had metal shavings on my magnetic drain plug as a result, but no major damage.

I don't want to get this off track, but is "evaporation and pyrolisis" (breaking chemical bonds by heat?) combustion? In (inefficient) combustion there is ALWAYS carbon residue (black crap on the piston). By ineffecient, I mean the ratio of 02 to gas is not perfect. The "perfect" combution of 02 and gas would probably be (x # of moles) CH3CH2......(I won't pretend to know the chemical structure of gasoline)....... + (y # of moles)O2 = CO2 + H2O. If I'm wrong about the rusty knowledge of organic chemistry, someone could probably point that out. But bottom line, every motor I have tore apart (4-stroke or 2-stroke) had lots of carbon on the piston and head. Granted I run mine a little rich. Good argument!! :beer: I like trying to remember long lost knowledge to support what I think I know. I hope to learn something here. :biggrin:

Supposed to be a fresh motor (aren't they all). It has a 2-5 override and lockup, hand made Shearer same side OOFs, carbs setup for fuel pump and alky, not sure of the brand of the crank, he's supposed to find out for me. The seller bought it a few years ago for a build, but never got around to building his bike. What would be the cons of running a 14 mil? What exactly tears up that makes them less reliable?

4 mil DM??

Good call. I've never experienced or seen hydrolocking, and forgot about that possibility.

It's a complete motor and was supposed to have been built by Dan Hull.

Yeah, it could be the coil. Did the problem start after you installed the new stator? It's not uncommon for the pickup coil gap to have to be adjusted when changing the stator or flywheel.

Is the problem on both sides? If its blowing gas out of the exhaust, then it's not burning all of it. Do you have a good spark? Check pickup coil gap and double check the wiring. If all else fails, try to swap known working electrical parts with yours (stator, CDI, ignition coil) one at a time until you get it figured out. Good luck.

I don't doubt that one bit :wink: . But in a Banshee engine, I would think that the carbon that is on the pistons is more from the gas than the 32:1 oil. 4-pokes have tons or carbon on their pistons also (unless the jetting is on the lean side, or 100% perfect.) Also, I would think that in this case, some of the oil would escape unburnt, reducing the possibility of deposits. I could be completely wrong on this, however :shoothead: . Any other opinions?

I doubt jetting is your problem. Your close enough that it would at least run. Unplug the TORS and parking brake, check the choke tube, and sync your carbs. If none of that fixes the problem, do some electrical trouble shooting. I can walk you through some of that, but try the simpler stuff first.

Just burn it. It'll smoke like hell for a while, but that's probably it. Carbon build up is from combustion of the gas, more so than oil.

You going to the BB on your 4 mil, or are ya building a bigger one?

I always had bad luck with the right cylinder. :verymad: Anyway, I have a couple of stock cranks lying around if interested.

I have no idea what that means. If your fouling plugs, your jetting is probably too rich somewhere. Are your air filters clean?

13 tooth? That killed one of my CUB motors, granted it should let you pull a higher gear. I had other issues as well. .....My stock stroke Cub never pulled 6th. It would fall on its face every time..I gotta 1-5 override now so I never see 6th

No need to get all defensive, there are a lot of scammers out there....I was wanting o build a DM as well, just pondering your 10 mil setup in the meantime, I already have a 4 mil.

Who's building your DM? Where do you ride? Honestly I don't trust your offer.

What would that be on a non ported 421 w/Shearer SB outframes on alky? If you don't give up your secrets, I won't get disgruntled.

Why are you selling it?

There is no "noise" when this happens. You just get a gradual, or perhaps, sudden loss of compression in the affected cylinder. I've seen this a couple times. The motor will not hardly idle on the affected cylinder; but still ran when on the throttle.

Then the dump tubes were probably drilled out. Not sure how to fix that, or if you can get a fat enough needle to make up for it. If you can, let me know what you did....that'd be good info.

Put it in there,and pull the spring back to the pin. Put the side cover on and tighten A COUPLE of the the bolts to test it. (If the cover is not in place, the kicker gear will go past the idler gear)...tighten more than a couple 2 or 3 bolts and it's wrong, you gotta loosen 'em all back up.