J-Madd

Use the stock adjuster screw on the aftermarket lever. The aftermarket adjusters are usually too short to tighten the cable.

What's the battery for? Get rid of the TORS and parking brake sensor altogether. It seems like I used more than 3 wires from my CDIs when I shortened a couple harnesses.

Parking brake sensor. Throw it in the trash, and unplug the TORS while your at it.

Make sure the key is not sheared, or that the flywheel is not loose. I have seen that with a flywheel where the keyway as wallered (sp?) out; but not noticeable to the eye. Just enough to throw the timing off. Changed the flywheel and haven't had a problem since.

Sounds like a Blaster kicker to me. All Banshee kickers are the same, I think.

Just a hair to the outside of the mark when you push on the case lever by hand until you feel pressure.

In my avatar and the same pic in my gallery. EDIT: It's not in the gallery. I never could get it to load..forgot about that.

I don't know the size but you can probably find a stock switch from the newer models pretty easily...it goes by the lever. Not sure how it would wire in, though.

That would definitely work..has anyone actually done this? The phillips end of the rod is easy as hell to strip..I'd be afraid it would be difficult to take back apart. Blue or green loctite would be more forgiving imo.

If your using an impact; you can put the clutch plates back in and press on them with your hand to keep the basket from moving (as much).

Are you sure it's tight? Hold the center with a good phillips screwdriver and tighten the jam nut as much as you can without stripping the phillips.

That sounds right. The float is either sticking or it is set so that is not closing the inlet completely. Take the bowl off with the carb upright and hold the floats up while putting liquid (water, gas, beer, whatever) in the fuel line and see if it comes out the inlet. It should start coming out when the floats are about paralllel. If it comes out before the float is lowered that far, that is your problem.

Sounds like the slides may be in backwards. You want the cut away toward the back.

That's pretty light. I have a 314 lb and a 307 lb oem chassis; my stretched oem (+24 out front/+12 swinger) weighed in at 270 lb race ready.

It is a fact that the guard beams were off all week except Saturday. They were having trouble with red lighting for no reason. It was mentioned during t/t Friday night that they had been off.

Make sure the splines on the pressure plate line up with those on the inner hub. Just 'cause you can line up the bolt holes doesn't mean the splines line up. Move it around a hole, then see if they line up That's most likely your problem.

The plug should be wet with gas if it is getting fuel in that cylinder, but not running on that cylinder. I'd say that you have a clogged pilot jet, or other carb issues. As far as the head gasket, ..an easy way is just to check the radiator and see if it is still full (assuming it was full at one point). If it's not full, the water had to go somewhere..out the overflow or through the head gasket.

You'll need a 22mm socket (I think) and an impact gun to remove it, most likely. It can be done with a strap wrench to hold the basket still, but it's a pain in the ass. The basket will slide right off once the nut is removed.

If the problem doesn't follow the plug wire, it is NOT electrical. IF the carbs are clean and sync'd, it could be an air leak or a leaky headgasket. What does the plug look like on the bad side?? Water beaded on it? Oily and black. Dry?

My RDZ mount didn't work..I couldn't get it to line up. I'm running all of mine without any rubber support..no problems so far, but haven't ridden any of then much.

You can run the twist throttle without the idle kit. Just make sure the carbs are sync'd and use the cable adjuster on the handlebars to idle it up or down.

Yep. Me too.

Thanks for clearing that up. I sorry I questioned jbooker.

Banshee's electrical system isn't DC???? Not arguing your point that they aren't compatible, per se; just that I had always thought it WAS DC..I could be wrong.

I ran some a few years ago on the stock lighting system and they weren't as bright as regular incandescent bulbs. But they looked good :happy: