J-Madd
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Everything posted by J-Madd
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This is true. Razrs seem to hold up better. The holeshots are a softer rubber.
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Might be able to trade the J-Arm frame for an A-arm frame..I know I'd rather have a lightened J-arm frame drag racing, due to the weight difference.
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Those carbs big enough? I know they will work, but bigger might be better.
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Regular ole' holeshots.....and the same size as stock(20x10x9?), but they have a bigger footprint. Hook well on any terrain.
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Deckheight, disregard the above post, I thought you were responding the my previous post.
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I've already ordered one, but thank you for the response I'm sure your tester is well made, but may not work for my application. :thumbsup:
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magicracing.com
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Some will argue with me, but the black is from fuel more so than the oil. My 4 stroke engines have had as much carbon as my 2 strokes on gas. On alky,.you run even more oil, but still don't have the carbon build up: thus ruling out oil as the major contributor, imo.
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Sorry, never heard of it. I'm sure the stock shift cam has room for improvement, as the stock Banshee has the sorriest shifting of anything I've ever rode. Now with an override, it's a different story...the shift cam (aka shift drum) is modified, as well as some of the gears.
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correct. BTW every clutch boss that I have seen has the scratches on the outiside. I have no idea what causes them....dirty oil maybe?
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You need the intake and reed cages in place to check for leaks there as well...
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high reeving and not shutting off
J-Madd replied to banshee_boi17's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
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It isn't the shift forks..it would pop out of gear, or not go into a specific gear if they were bent. I'm not familiar with this problem.
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Just ordered one from Bob for $58 shipped. Will be shipped out today or tommorrow.
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Well, he didn't give me a link :biggrin: I welcome all responses, but I think I'm going with Dave's suggestion. My Cheetah has developed a massive air leak...it wants to keep running after killing the ignition after only idling for a minute or so. I can't even purge it b/c it gets too hot idling.
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Thanks. I've checked at all local auto parts stores, and they don't have them. Dave..I saw those when I searched, and as you said they were not on e-bay anymore. I'll give him a call.
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I don't want to make my own tester. I want to buy a complete tester, with plugs for both big flange and small flange exhaust, and 39 mm intakes. Where can I get this? Or will someone make it for me.
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I usually run +8 or 9, but you can look at the burn mark on the strap of the plug to see what's too much. It should be about halfway between the end of the strap and the base. If it's farther toward the base, it's too much.
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If the Cub was a shorter stroke, it's possible that the 10 mil, in general, can require smaller jets b/c it has a stronger signal pulse (or whatever it's called) and draws more fuel per stroke out of the jet.
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To add to that....if you do run those 50 seconds at WOT, roll back out of the throttle, don't just let the slides drop all the way instantly or you'll be trying the feed those 9000 or so rpms through the pilot jet, which is not good. I locked 2 Cubs up like that, thinking that is was ok as long as I let back out of WOT, but it's definately not.
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Sometimes IMG is in the code twice at each end when you copy from photobucket. YOu have to delete one set of "IMG"s (one on each side of the code) Never heard of a JE piston in a 2 stroke????!!
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Good idea.
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I'd check the compression while your at it. WHen the compression gets low, the higher gears where there is more load on the engine, is where it is most noticeable. YOu probably are lean, but not sure it would cause the exact problem your describing.
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If you've got the silencer full of packing with the core completely out, you're gonna have a hell of a time. You can start over by wrapping the packing tightly around the core as much as possible and still fit back in the silencer. THen you can continue to press more packing in there after you get the core in place.
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If there's sludge on the cases there, it's probably just a little exhaust leak that appears to come from the case.