J-Madd

Are ya sure it's not the voltage regulator? Are the bulbs blown? I've never known the lighting part of the stator to stop working, but I suppose it could happen.

Good to know. Sounds like you did the research. So..........Blaster crowned pistons but Banshee lengh (for stock rod) I never really checked into it. I've got 160 psi with 20 cc domes on my 392...and ran 35 mm pwks on gas (now 38s on alky). That biatch should run a heck of a lot better than some ported stock cylinders (in most cases). I just can't understand that compression #. Did you hold the throttle open like BigRed mentioned???

I don't think that is the Blaster piston. I didn't look at the website, but my 392 has pistons from fast (i.e. the Trinity pistons) and his domes. You may have blaster domes with Banshee pistons. If you order 68mm domes and specify they're for Blaster piston, those are domes for a 4 mil 68 mm Cub (421). That's your problem. The thin base gasket is the only reason you have the compression that you do. You've got pistons for a long rod with different shaped domes on a stock rod motor....jmo.

I wasn't aware you had to change the needle seats!!??? On my 421 Cub with 39 mm pkws, I run dumps and mains drilled to .125, egn in the middle, 60 pilots. I can run the pjs all the way out and it still runs good. That was at 300 ft elevation and 80 - 90 degrees. I sometimes turn in the pjs a little to lean it out a little, but I always start the day with them all the way out.

Pilot jet could be lean, if it starts better when it's warm. Is the temp a lot colder than when you rode it last? You can turn your air screws in to richen it up a little.

I had C&C fix my YFZ last year. They were supposed to got through the motor and replace all seals and gaskets and fix anything that was broken and install a new piston. ( I can work on them myself, but I was just fed up with that f'n YFZ. The day I got it back, the crankshaft nut on one side came off, so I had to take it back to make him fix it...a 2 hour round trip drive. About 6 months later, the wrist pin clip came off of the piston and ruined a piston and cylinder. BILLY CLAYTON SUCKS. ....If you didn't want to send them off, you could have taken them to FTZ in Cape. I saw one of there ported motors run, and it looked pretty good.

Just a thought....I'd say you could spend 2 grand on suspension and leave the motor stock on one; and put pipes, reeds, filter, timing plate, shaved head on another and leave the suspension stock on another....and the one with the motor work will always win in a drag race, and would win in almost every other type of race as well, granted, it would beat the hell out of ya!! JMO...I've always been a drag racer, and the only suspension upgrade I've ever done is Marvin Shaws or struts, so I'm biased here. You will have more fun on it with the motor work vs. the suspension for your first $1000. If you ride tight, technical trails..get a 450, jmo.

How are you checking for spark? Are just seeing if will try to start, or are you taking out the plugs and actually watching for it? Are you sure that the key switch is bypassed correctly? You have to twist the black and red wires together. I just got a frame powdercoated and forgot to do this when I put mine back together at first. It would show intermittent weak spark, even with the key not bypassed. I didn't have to sand anything to get a good ground. As a matter of fact, the dang thing fired up without the stator ground (black wire coming from the stator) even connected!! Once you get rid of all the TORS crap (and headlights, in my case) the Banshee wiring is extremely simple. All the black wires connect to each other; and all of the others are attached to pigtails.

I have one identical to that installed on a tank I bought with my 14 mil Cheetah. We put some alky in it, and it leaks all around. They have tried to seal it with urethane or silicone or something, but it's not working. AND you have shim up the gas tank rear bolts with a bushing or that valve hits the head. I'm gonna try to figure out a way to seal it.

True and weld your crank $75 Cheetah cub (cast for stock stroke) $800 Pistons (65mm) $140. That'll work...well a little over, but you get the point, Or the 68mm set up..maybe $50 more or so.

You don't have to run the long rod with the 68 mm, stock stroke Cub..,.and you just run the Blaster pistons with the 4 mil long rod. I have the 392 (68 mm, stock crank) Cub and the 421 (68 mm, +4 mil) Cub, and I can tell you that the main difference is the front tires staying on the ground setting on the seat, even a little towards the back, and the front tires coming off the ground setting as far up on the tank as you can get. This is with a +6 swinger on the 392 and a +8 on the 421. My 421 makes my 392 feel slow. My 300 ft times are 3 to 4 tenths different.

Yes. I have ran them on the a-arms before.

The powder coat on them is inpenetrable..you can' t hurt it... but the seal on the ball joint on one of mine tore easily. Not a big deal. I may be able to cut you a bargain on some, especially if you have some decent stockers to boot, since I've made that chassis a drag bike now..............I don't need the width. PM me if interested. 1/2 price if you send me your stockers.

FY!: The stock adjuster fixed his problem, unless he says otherwise. :thumbsup:

Like was mentioned..call Jeff at F.A.S.T. ...He can make your stock cylinders scream. I know what ya mean...."stay ahead of the other guys"..that's where I started, too., Read my sig......you'll never get enough!!!!!

There are grooves on the needle thatn the clip goes in, but that was not why you trashed a piston.

Man, you're at the best place!! Get rid of the boost bottle. I've ran a 'shee with Fatty's as rich as 360s (way too rich, but still ran good). I've never seen a piston like that; maybe someone else can explain why it's all smashed at the top at one spot. What did the head look like? How's the rod on that side (lots of play, etc), was the clearance b/t the cylinder wall and piston in spec? I'm not an expert in this, but there is a lot of help to be found here, versus anywhere else.

WHAAAAAT???? 1800?? If you like drag racing..cheetah cub(850) 4 mil t/w crank (about 500) carbs (300), chain/swingarm(varies---300)..whats that add up to? No way that's a good deal. Edit: there's a few other things you could add in there, but still....................

I have seen an ignition coil go bad, FYI..but it would run..it would just run like crap. I'd start with replacing the stator first, though.

I had one with T5s. K&N, +4 timing, shaved head, and never got beat (consistently) in ANY drag race by an non ported bike..that includes piped, cammed YFZs, raptors, 450rs, Suzuki 450s, etc. It beat dirt bikes too, in 400 ft or so (from a dead stop)...don't race 'em much further if ya have a choice :cool: . It was kind of a freak to not have been ported, kinda like those 4 mils running .60s on planet sand, dajogejr, lol. Edit: I even ran it against my ported YFZ, with WR crank, Crower gen3 cam, 13:1 wiseco, Ron Wood pipe, dyna ignition, ....and the YFZ couldn't beat it, regardless of rider.

Don't leave it adjusted like that at the case!!! It makes sense to do that, but for some reason it'll fry your clutch if it' not lined up! Pm me your address and I can send you a stock adjuster.....or you can cut a slit in some washers and use them as spacers to make your cable tighter.

Yeah, for drag racing they will use a chromoly subframe a lot of times. Not sure for any other kind of riding, though.

I used the insulation that they used to pack and ship my Shearers! :biggrin:

Describe how it acts at other RPMs, wot, etc. Does it idle? Are you 100% sure the slides are in correctly? They will go in backwards very easily if in the wrong carb.

Not that I'd recommend it, but I ran one for a long time only using the adjuster at the thumb throttle for idle, after sync'in' the carbs. I had zero problems and it ran good. BUT drilling and tapping is a piece of cake.