J-Madd

I had the same dillema, due to the 80 degree rating of the hose. I've been told that the rating is 80 degrees @ 150 psi; and you could actually invert that to 150 degrees @ 80 psi as the limit of the hose. In other words, it can stand more heat at lower psi...NOT SURE IF ANY OF THIS IS TRUE; just what I was told. I never ran the clear hose, btw.

Do you still have the big bore pistons and cylinders? I'd just run those.

Is it unrideable? Sound like TORS or parking break swith to me. Just unplug the parking brake switch (wires that go to the clutch handle) and the TORS (black box under the left front fender area). No need to spend any money to unplug the TORS, only to get rid of the ugly carb tops. Also make sure the choke tube is in place.

Chassis weight and dimesions? Swingarm included?

Yeah I figured that. I've read enough of your posts to know that you're more savvy than that when it comes to these engines.

Clean and sync the carbs and make sure the trottle cable isn't in a bind. If it ran fine a month ago, it should now as well. Make sure the choke tube is in place also.

Metal in the oil could be from the clutch basket, kickstarter gear or idler gear clip...but not from damaged rods or pistons.

When you drilled the ports through the intake, did you also remove an area of the transfer wall on the other side? I've only seen a few sets of ported stockers, but the one that ran the best had the boost ports on the intake that went all the way into the middle of the transfer area, if that makes sense. This engine made 84 rwhp on the dyno untuned. We didn't get to dial it in b/c it welded the ball to the rod on the first pull. Probably makes around 90 hp. Runs 4.20s all day with 190 lb rider...has run teens with a lighter rider.

He's got a Cheetah...not a Cub. I know that Cubs are almost good to go out of the box, but are the Cheetahs?? I know mine has the transfers ported so much the the sleeve is extremely thin at the bottom of the cylinders..and the cases are tunnel ported. Mine has a light switch powerband, but it probably wouldn't with powervalves.

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Yeah, seriously. I've been into 4 or 5 different Banshee engines and all had those scratches on the basket. One was a 2006 I bought brand new, and had to scratches on it in no time. I have no idea where they come from...

Trust me, they ALL look like that.

I run a non o-ring 520 chain. Not sure what kind..I bought it by the foot. It was kind of cheap, but I've ran it on my 130 - 140 hp Cheetah so far.

I run distilled water and watter wetter in all of mine. No issues so far. I don't ride when it's cold, but if the temp is gonna get below freezing in the shop, I switch to antifreeze or engine ice for winter.

The new pistons in my Cheetah have boost ports cut in them. The old ones did not. :shrug: I also orded a set for it that had no windows at all. They are oem replacement for a big bore 800 cc jet ski engine, that apparently have to be custom machined for the Cheetah. As far as the Vito's pistons, I think they just raise the height of the window or open up the window more...not real sure.

I also have some cylinders ported for a 4 mil and cut domes. I even have pistons to go with them. It's an aggressive trail port, I think. Bought the motor used to drag race, but the port timings were not right for drag racing. I'll sell pistons and cylinders cheap, as they're just sitting on a shelf; and I will never use them.

A battery and fan seems like a good idea for slow trail riding, but not real sure it's necessary. Mine only overheated when climbing hills. By overheat I mean puking out of the overflow.

Thought he was out of town?? I'll try to give him a call. I don't need it until my new motor gets done anyway. Thanks.

Whatcha got?

2 - strokes always "feel" faster, even if they aren't, no doubt about that. This argument will never be settled because EVERYONE has seen some 4 strokes wax some Banshees, but they've also seen some Banshees (bolt on) wax some 4-strokes. If both are equal riders, with both engines in a good state of tune with correct gearing, tires ,etc.; I believe the Banshee will always win. BUT what you see alot of times is bad riders (most common), bad state of tune, wrong gearing, wrong tires, etc, on some of these that makes the race favor one or the other. Just my experience.

It really shouldn't overheat as long as it's jetted correctly and the water pump is good.

Hard to use the power from those. I don't think I've seen one that was faster than an equal to, or slightly lesser hp Banshee. I'm sure they're out there, I just haven't seen it. If they were very fast, more people would build them, because it's generally cheaper to buy a used crotch rocket motor than to build a Banshee motor. Just for everyday riding and reliability, I'm sure those engines would be great.

It's a pain in the ass to remove the stock inserts (without a press), but it can be done in a vise. I used the vise like a press, pressing a bolt or socket through to push out the insert.

I would think not.

edit. I posted info on coolant leaking into case. Nevermind, it's too early Monday morning. I deleted the post.