ryskie22

anybody got any ideas someone has to have ran into this?

my pistons and domes are perfect been running the silencers for two seasons and the silencers are not clogged the perferated tube is spotless like you burned it out with a propane torch but it is longer and the same size in diameter as the cpis.

ok i have a 421 cub on gas with 39 pwks 160 main and 52 pilots with dek in the middle position, cpis with cascade silencers. the problem is that the motor on the the topend wiill nose over and have a slight miss to it, i have checked all electrical from a known good bike(actually switched everything on it one at a time) now have also tried jetting it down and up with same results so for some weird reson i decided to try me cpi selincers bingo that fixed the problem! i am confused as to why it seems that there is being too much heat being held in the pipe the cascade silencers are bone dry no oil residue at all my cpis are dripping oil. i have taken them apart and found no obstructions just very disscolored packing and burn holes in the front of the packing. when i just cruise around with the cascades on it feels like my head pipes are on fire againts my knees! but with the cpis not so. its geting the spark plug so hot its cracking at the Spark Plug ceramic Insulator and is fine with the cpis. now i know that a lot off people run these type of silencers and i would like too as well if i can figure out what is wrong with them. oh also just let everybody know how my pipes are getting my stinger tubes have full leangth heat sleeves on them and they have burnded through them and into my plastic!

anybody got any ideas?

yes i am replacing the stinger tube also do too the cascade silencers are longer and yes it felt great too have my motor back to normal and being able to race again. just need to figure out why, maybee there is a fix were i can still run the cascade silencers.

well got some intersting news for you guys and gals went to winchester bay oregon and still have this flutter nosing over problem butt i brought my cpi silencers with me this time and put them back on from cascade silencers and bike ran great,pulled like crazy for 3 hours out on a ride, reinstalled the cascade silencers and wamo back to the problem now the question is why? any input would be apreciated. oh yea i have checked them for any issues inside the silencers none were found!

well got a 421 cub on 110 race fuel with a topend flutter not a hard miss that cause's the bike to fall off on power,it use to be a intermitant problem now i can make it happen all the time, i have tried changing stator,flywheel,cdi,plugs,coil,plug caps,jetting up and down 5 sizes as well as the needle position up and down and with a differnt needle completly.have taken wiring harness completly apart and checked it over very carefully,sanded frame to bare metal were ground is and even added more grounds in the front.tried smalller gap on plugs and got the pulsar at 0.15 at the flywheel. any help would be apreciated banshee hq has never let me down these guys on here no there stuff , so thanks in advance! here are my mods 421 cub 68 miill bore v-force 3 reeds pro design intakes 18cc domes (cascade) small bore inframe cpi with cascade siencers dynatech igntion on position 3 39 pwk main jet 160 pilot 52 dek needle in the third clip air mixture at 1.5 turns dual pingal valve br8es plugs at 0.26 gap turbo blue 110 fuel 4milll long rod with tz bearing hotrods straight cut gears hinson basket direct drive 3 heavy 3 light springs toomey radiator with temp gauge

thanks for all the replies, sounds like i need to make some runs and check my egts real close and go from there. i might re dyno with the 39s at the end of the year, i will no then were my jetting will wnd up. just was going to ride it one last time before winter realy gets here to see if there will be any other issues before the dyno, gotta get the kinks worked out!

funny you say that 35s and 39s dont differ much on jetting on the same motor, i had 35s before with the same jets and it seemed you had to rev it hard before you launched or it would bog, only when the sand was heavier and it would not like to roll on the throttle very well it would sputter out the pipes and the more throttle you gave it the worse it got,now you could always clutch it and it would be gone. never tried to figure out if it was lean or rich? only ran them a season and put 39s on her,so i may still have that same problem? my 35s i think were good on main jet,i warmed her up at the beach on a 80 degree day and put two new plugs in her and made a pass up to 5th gear and shut her down,pulled the plugs cut them and had just a hair over a 2 millimeter brown ring. thanks for the info

do you think 160 main might be to lean?

need some help here guys got a 421 cub on gas with 39 keihin pwks, trying to get a starting point for jetting.I ride at sealeval to 500 feet at the coast,got a 160 main and a 52 pilot now what do you think! I did search a little before i posted and it seems everybody has 35s.

yea no grooves it is a pro design, have tried that too!

well its a 421 cub and i have water or condensation in the trany oil after one weekend and have replaced the water pump seal and bearing and the o-ring on the pipe and still no change, dam thing still does it, what my qestion is that can a high pressure cap on the radiator cause to much pressure and push it buy the water pump seal? i have a 22 psi cap. i havent tried swithcing it to a stock pressue cap yet but that is next i guess.

thanks guys broke them down today and sanded the wheels and bead sealed them, dont think they are going to spin now!

i will break them down this weekend and see what i find and clean the beads and rims and seat them with brake clean,as awr stated. thanks for the info. has anyone tried bead sealer? the black goo in the metal can?