Ducman

If your just going to pick one mod to do first, then I'll throw in another vote for CPI's with sparkies. If you like to ride doons then you'll like a high reving pipe. DMC's are good trail/mx pipes but are not a high reving pipe. I would do the airbox adapter plate and clamp on filter mod soon too. The link below is the best price on CPI's that I know of, $435 (Parts Direct - CPI)

I have a prodesign intake, not made for the v-force reeds, but I'm running V-2's(with 34mm TM Mikunis). There's not much difference with the v-forece specific intake other than the cross fins in the intake bore which could make a small difference. The V-force reed cage cuts the round intake into 4 square ports pretty smoothly anyway.

Hmmm, I bet I've been reading #'s a bit lower than they really are. Darn, I need a new tester now.

If you have 220 psi, you better stick with the C12

On a stock length swingarm sand stars are all the more paddle you need. When I ran them on my stock swinger with a +4mm stroker I got all the traction I could handle. They are very durable and excellent for all around duning.

With a +2 swinger I'd poibably go with a 21x12x8 9 paddle extreme. Any more paddle than that and I think your front end will want to kiss the sky.

Damb, that looks like the front end of a bitchin sand rail. Nice!

Sounds like you are going in the right direction to me.

FWIW, My +4mm stroke 68mm cubs like a leaner needle on my TM 34mm Mikunis than my +4mm ported stock cylinders did. The cubs seem to be much more sensitive to the needle setting and bogged way worse than my stock cylinders with the needle just a little bit too rich. They seem to run great on the same size pilot through.

If you are going to ride anything other than sand don't go over a +4. If you dont mind using the stock axel carrier, then the swingarms in the link below are hard to beat as far a price and quality. I'm very happy with my +4 that I got from the swingarm shop off e-bay. ( Swingarm Shop) As for a paddles combo that will go good with a +4 swinger and a 12 port stroker, I would recommend the 21x21x8 10 paddle Skat Trak Extremes. Rockey Mountain ATV sells them for a good price.

I would definitely not go over a +2 swinger for a tail banshee. If you go +4 it will be very hard to get the front off the ground no mater how much power you are making because you'll just spin the tires. You wont like it. Now in the sand with paddles and an extended swinger is a whole different story.

I'd go with the Noss head over the reeds. The reeds wear out fairly fast and cost $100 to replace the pettals. The Noss head is pretty easy to install. Good mod for adding low end torque. If you are at sea level you may have to run a little race fuel mixed with pump fuel though for 20cc domes.

I would pull the motor and ship it to a knowledgeable builder for a tear down, inspection, and rebuild. I'd hate to fix it and have that happen again. A good builder would probably find the cause of your crank failure. As for the problem, I'm wondering if the flywheel is seriously warped or out of ballance or something like that.

Depends on how high your exhaust ports have been raised. If you have a doon or drag type port then your static compression will be quite a bit lower. Example: my old motor was a +4mm dune port, exhaust ports raised A LOT. I had 19cc stroker domes, .035 squish, and I was measuring 145 psi when the motor was fresh. I ran +6 timing and could use 100 octane at 400+ ft elevation btu not at sea level. Then I needed 110. I think you could get away with 19cc domes for sure running 110, possibly 18cc.

Says shipping to the UK only, also $300 BP = $535 USD. Those are big for a stock port banshee, probably not worth the money, but it is a very nice setup/package deak for what is shown in the auction, intake, carbs, filters. Would work well on a ported banshee.

Ha Ha Ha... Thats total BS. You dont have to swap studs for a Noss head, but I'm pretty sure you do on a trinity head, same with a pro-design. Your more likely to mess up a stud pulling the stock ones out and installing longer ones. Noss has awsome customer service to, he as helped me with a couple of custom +4mm stroke domes. Trinity is overpriced on almost all of their products.

That is a lot of darn near the same post just reworded everytime. banshee350twin, pick a bulder, then call them. I'm glad you are going to be able to aford to buy a built motor soon, Yeah!

I'd run the castor 927 at 40:1 and you dont want to mix the 927 and yamalube 2R so if you have very much fuel at all left in your tank drain it before putting in the 927 premix fuel in. If you keep using the 2R then mix it at 36:1. Your engine will start to run a lot smoother and cleaner by about 1/2 way through the second tank of fuel when your breaking it in. I'd throw in some new plugs too. Dont take off the airbox snorkel untill you are ready to start modding/jetting. If you take the snorkel off you will need to up the main by a couple sizes. You also need to look into getting an air box addaptor and clamp on filter in the future. You can not take the air box lid off without one.

You could always get something like this: Click Here - Monster 998cc v-twin 130 Hp 77 Tq Drives like a crotch rocket, looks kinda like a cruiser, or at least your wife will think it's a cruiser if you tell her that it is.

Couple of things I neglected to order untill after I got the cub cylinders and then realized I needed, new head studs and big bore o-rings for the 68 mm bore domes, and an overtime check so I could afford food for the rest of the month, J/K on the last one, well sort of.

Well typically you want it to be at least .030 to not have interference or detonation problems. You could run, and I have talked to people that have run as little as .025 but reliability would be questionable, sooner or later the piston will either hit the dome, or smash carbon buildup into the dome, or you'll get detonation around the edge of the piston and result in a short piston life. Typically .035 is optimum. Probably more than .045 and your combustion starts loosing efficiency. I'm not an expert but at least I didn't give you a blah blah blah answer with no numbers to help you out!

The rods are supposed to have some side to side movement, there is even a spec for how much is within tollerance. I dont have my manual to look at just this moment but I'm 99% sure that 1/16 of an inch is easily witin tollerance.

If you compare 80Wt gear oil and 10-30Wt engine oil your comparing apples and oranges as far as oil weight #'s 10-30 wt engine oil and 80 wt gear oil are not all that different viscosity wise. Gear oil has detergents designed to keep gears clean and lube clutch plates and the oil resists glase or get burned by clutch plates, engine oil has detergents designed to keep engine internals lubed and clean. They are not all that different in the tranny though as it doesn't have bearings like lead crank bearings and small oil passages like a 4 stroke engine and doesn't get as hot. Just dont use engine oil with friction modifiers like Mobil 1 that are designed to reduce friction similar to a teflon additive. They can help your clutch slip easier.

If you do some searching on the reason why Lee required that all pics posted be "clean", no full on nudity, and made it so you cant write the word fuck -(fuck), I'm sure the porn forum idea will be rejected for the same reasons. As for me personally, I think its a great Idea, can never be to much porn!

Well I grew up on a dairy and we employed a few Mexicans, but it was hard to find legal ones willing to do the work, but fortunately my dad did the right thing and did not hire illegals. They are definitely hard workers but they use way more resources than they provide! What everyone needs to pull their head out of their ass and figure out is that you ALREADY ARE PAYING $5 PER TOMATOE! Your tax dollars and medical insurance are subsadising the illegal Mexicans being here. The ones that work dont pay crap for taxes, they claim the maximum dependants possible so they only end up paying into social security and medicare. Theres no penalty for tax evasion if you have a fake identity anyway. If the IRS goes after an illegal they could simply switch fake identities. My dad hired Mexicans with green cards and they would totally cheat on their W-4 tax forms and claim 10 dependants. They never even filed tax returns. He asked the IRS about this and they said as an imployer it was none of his business. If an illegal makes $30k per year, they are only paying in about $2K in taxes. If one out of 4 of them goes to the hospital to have a baby or goes to the emergency room then they have already used several thousand dollars more than they paid in, not to mention the other state and Fed government services they are useing for free, public roads/transportation, schools, fire and police protection, welfare, ect, ect. They use waaaaaay more than they pay in! Furthermore, the lettus is not being picked by illegals! I have worked in Salinas CA, lettus capitol USA and the Mexicans that work picking strawberrys, Lettus, tomatoes, ect mostly all belong to unions and are hired by labor contractors and are at least theoretically all legal and at a minimum have green cards! If you loaded up all the illegals today and hauled them off, tomarrow wouldn't be much different than today.