Ducman

Just unbolt the silencers and run her out the straight pipe if you just want to be loud.

I count 16 paddles, not 12. That is a bad ass bike, I question why you ask for only $4500. By the looks of all the goodies, you could get more than that by just parting it out. How do you want payment, just western union the money to Germany? Sorry for the sarcasm if this is for real, but this smells a bit fishy.

Too bad its not a U.S. site cause I was wantedsomeofthatshittoo

I'd say it would be worth it to get new carbs with your dune port for more total HP output, but the stock carbs if jetted right shouldn't be causing the problem you describe. Many have ran stock carbs/ CPI's and dune port before with no probs. You would just be loosing 5+ Hp from the restricted flow of the stock carbs.

LOL Fixitrod, when I started to read your first post I thought someone had hijacked your account. Ans: How much does it cost to get the head ported - if you have to ask, you cant afford who does it the best - apperently Angelena Joli if you were to ask Brad Pit what are the best tires - Nitto Drag radials how fast is the top speed - 120mph as measured by a turbo Ford Festiva in Ireland how many links in a chain for a plus 3.2894 swingarm - 115.825 what are the best carbs - Holley 4 barrel does a banshee vibrate enough my girlfriend would like to ride it - no get her one that takes "D" batteries how many valves does it have - 2, one kenuter valve and one gas what's the best oil - Mobil 1 are banshees fast - hell ya! I'm thinking about getting one - go for it

RNBRAD Your short synopsis of polish prepwork is right on the money and is the exact steps I found that work best after a couple hundred hours of buffing and prepping. The biggest trick to polishing is getting the prep work done efficiently so you dont spend a life time on every object, and not screwing up the surface by getting too aggressive so you have to spend more time sanding than necessary. To get the finished surface to a perfect mirror polish takes the right buffing wheels with the right compounds and a little experience as well. I might just add, I buy the scotch brite (I think 4" or 5") wheels at Wall Mart that have the 1/2 inch rod in them, dremmel off the rod and then dremmel a 3/4" hole where the rod was and mount them on my bench buffer. Works awsome for removing coatings and surface imperfections fast with out gouging the surface. They cost about $7 ea so it can get spendy if you eat up a your wheels fast on rough/jagged surfaces. Also for the first time polishers, never use a coarse grit sand paper by hand in a back/forth motion to remove surface imperfections, the gouges/lines it will leave are very hard to get out, almost as bad as the surface imperfections themselves. Always use a orbital sander untill you get to at least a 400 or 600 grit. I also get my buffing compounds from Harbor Freight for cheap, I think they are $2 a stick (1"x6").

Yes, but its not as shinny or mirror like as real chrome. It is very durrable though.

Some ported shee's suffer from the dreaded dip in HP that a lot of shee's get at 6K rpm when you look at the dyno Graph, typically get worse the more radical the port is. Read Loco's super long post about jetting the Passion 4mm stroker. Since you said you have mild porting I doubt it is the problem, but its possible. I would determine if the problem is mainly when you are at part throttle like if slowly rolling on the throttle from 1/8 to WOT makes the symptoms worse. If this is the case then you probably need to adjust the needle. Try the (3rd position from the blunt end) middle clip. The dyno jet needle with be richer than the stock needle and the same throttle position due to more taper. I've heard of other people having issues running dynojet needles, personally I'd put the stock needle back in 3rd or 4th clip and see if that cures your problem. I believe dyno jet mains are the same as stock/mikuni mains as far as #'s and flow rate, there probably actually mikuni mains.

wayfst The needle has no effect on the main at WOT. The needle jet orafice is plenty big to run well over 300 mains. I know for a fact that Banchetta is a jetting expert from the probably 1000+ jetting advice posts he has given in the past, and that you dont know WTF your talking about if you say you cant make stock carbs run rich at over a 270 main with the stock needle. Banchetta is right, don't post in the jetting forum any more if you are going to give completely bogus info. lokar If your cylinders still have the stock ports you'd never need more than 380 main in stock carbs even with a 4mm stroker crank, if you had a drag or dune port then possibly. You've got other issues if you say you are too lean with a 380 main. You shoul not need larger than stock carbs if you are running cylinders with stock porting. You really should get cylinder porting to go with the stroker crank because your port timing has changed due to the longer stroke which may actually hurt your top end HP if you dont have the stock cylinder ports opened up.

Like PUSH THE THROTTLE said, the piston should go into the cylinder pretty easy if you have the gap in rings lined up with the marks on the piston, otherwise they will not go into the cylinder and cause dammage if you try to force them.

A die that size will probably cost more than what you paid for the axel.

Yes there is, about $3K

I have a +4 swingarm and stock shock. I got a nice swingarm off e-bay that uses rectangular tubing rails and uses the stock axel carrier for $185 (came primered and I painted black) on e-bay. PCed was about $250 and chrome was about $300 for the same swingarm. I think the guy's e-bay store is called the swing arm shop. I have the rear shock preload maxed out and it is too soft but I also weigh 270lb. I need to get a way stiffer spring in back. It makes the back end squat down real bad, probably uses up at least 1/2 of my wheel travel before It even moves. It does make for a very plush ride but bottoms out on jumps pretty easy and I end up dragging the frame in the sand more often when landing jumps now. If you were 200lb or less it would probably be fine.

So cubs are all big bore cylinders? So you'd run blaster pistons with a +5mm long rod? 67mm is .040" over bore in blaster piston size.

I run PRIMARY DRIVE sprockets and gold o-ring chain that rockey mountain atv sells. Inexpesive and good quality. Stock chain size is 520x104 length. Most non o-ring chains will stretch like a MF'er on every ride requireing a lot more adjustment and wear out much faster, like 4x faster. I like the Gold chain because it doesn't rust and is easier to clean. With 20" tires in the sand I thought the stock 14/41 gearing was just a tad to tall but 13/41 was geared down too much except for long steep hill climbs. I like my 13/41 now with 21x12x8 9p extremes. So I would recommend about 14/43 with 20" tires. For me, I did better on steep sand hill climbs when I geared down but for typical play duning it was a little low geared so you had to shift alot more. Higher or Lower gearing has its advantages and disadvantages, you just gear it towards the type of riding you want it to perform best.

Just curious, if you live in Chico CA since its in your log in name? If so there is a local builder in Anderson (1 hr to the north of Chico) that ports banshee's, sells all kinds of parts, now including Cub Cylinders and have their own dyno. The web site is way out of date but good for contack info. Looney Tooners (Clicky)

Whats the deal with needing custom domes? Is it because the cubs dont use a spacer plate under the cylinders like some stroker crank/stock cylinder setups use? I have custom stoker domes for my +4mm, stock cylinders, w/no base plate. Would they work on a +4 stroker cub/ Possibly need a slight shave (maybe a couple thou) if the squish is too tight? Basically, if you had cubs with a stock stroke crank and stock cylinder bore size then you could use standard domes, correct?

If you are running with K&N filter pods then you need to be at least a 300 main jet. Probably between 300 - 320.

I would also recommend a +4. The +4 worked totally awsome for me in the sand with 21x12x8 9P extremes. I could still ride wheelies but it took a decent amount of effort, but drag type launches were awsome. It would just carry the front end but not launch the front end to the sky. Still very all around duneable. +4 sucks for trails and typical dirt riding but is still very do-able. I would probably only go +6 if your making over 70hp and dont plan on any dirt riding and want to run at least 10 paddles in the sand on 21's or 22's.

I had 32x11.5x15 Yokahama Goleanders on my ranger with a 4" lift. Very quiet ride, drove so smooth and great traction. I sold that truck before I had very many miles on those tires though.

450's on stock grearing dont have as fast of a top speed as a banshee so he must have geared up, you'll need to go to a larger front to match the top speed. I'd say you'd need to get ported to out do the 450 in acceleration. With porting you should spank the 450 on asphalt.

If you want a fun reliable bike to jump and play around on in the dunes - YFZ 450

Alky is lighter/ thinner than gas so mixing it with your gas would mess up your jetting, cause it to be leaner than with just gas. Lots of people use Methenol injection on blower and turbo setups in cars that use pump fuel and it acts like adding octane so they can get away with much more agressive tune, leaner/ more timing. Basicall you can run about a 100 octane tune using 91 octane and the amount of Metanol used is very small, and it is only injected at say 60% throttle to WOT. I would say in theory you might be able to do what your thinking of, but you'd be likely to blow your motor trying to get the set-up right. Methanol isn't a while lot cheaper than race fuel either.

I have my shee jetted for sea level. One local place I ride trails goes from 1000' to 5000' and when I ride at Sand mountain it goes from about 3000' to 4000'. I rode both locations with my stock carbs/ stock port/ FMF pipes setup and also with my 4mm stroker/ 34mm Mikuni Flat Slides/ rocket pipes. The stock carbs/port/ and FMF pipe setup did seam to run much more noticeably richer when going up a large difference in elevation VS the 34mm carbs/ 4mm stroker/ dune port/ rocket pipe/ v-force setup. I changed a bunch of things going to the new set-up so I couldn't say if it is just the larger carbs. For whatever reason, it does seem to be less effected by large changes in elevation now. Before it would be noticeably down on power and run a lot hotter due to being righ. Now it seems to run fine, not much power loss, and stays cool, but does start to spit oil out of the silencers when it gets rich from going to high elevations. The plugs stay clean, no fouling problems, but darken up quite a bit.

There are some built z-400's like he describes that are typically comparable to a piped YFZ 450, not sure what the N2O might do for it. If your talking sand mountain NV, then you'll want to run a smaller than stock front sprocket (13T) so you can pull a strong 4th or possibly 5th up the drag hill. If your geared too high you'll bog when trying to shift into the next gear. Its not about the fastest acceleration, its who can pull the most gear up the looooong comp hill slope. When I ran there the first time with my 4mm motor I had one guy on a banshee that could beat me due to his setup was perfect for the long drag hill ( he ran a 12T front and could pull 5th gear up the hill, just slightly faster than my 4th which I couldn't pull real strong) l even though I'm sure I was making at least 10-15+ more HP, but my setup was still stock. If I would have had a 13T like I do now for the sand I could have pulled 5th and smoked him.