Ducman

I'm curious to see how they will respond to mods with the fuel injection and somthing like the powercommander to alter fuel timing maps. Also to see how well it will do in the dunes once its modded for some more power compared to the YFZ.

Yeah, he was suckin wind bigtime after each run pluss, and I'm not supersticious, but I think Bodi's carma just sucks right now. He skiied sloppy and was way out of controll even more so than ususal, his style is pretty wreckless to begin with. He did almost get a meadle I believe in slalom but he DQ'ed because he hooked/split a gate. I swear there were others that did the same but didn't get called for it though especially in the Womens slalom race, which is where the carma comes in.

That dyno sheet is awsome! If I ever sell my shee on e-bay I'm going to use it.

$350 is rediculous. I would try to pay more like $75 for a couple pulls with the gas annalyser or 02 sensor hooked up. It will give you a pretty good idea of what kind of power your putting down and how close you are to being dialed on your jetting. If your already close, a good dyno operator or just your own knowledge would tell you how many jet sizes to go up or down to be dialed. Comparing #'s from one dyno to the next can be off by 10% to maybe as much as 20% anyway. When people on the HQ throw out dyno #'s they rarely say if they are actual or SAE #'s anyway, which can be way different, usually SAE takes a lot off your # to correct it to SAE conditions on say a cold day. You could make 10 more HP on a 40 degree day vs a 100 degree day with uncorrected HP #'s.

I was on the highschool Alpine Ski team. Now that was fun! I like racing weather its on foot, ski, motorcyle or car. Not to mention getting out of school every friday for 6 weeks in a row, pluss another 2 days if you qualified for state finals which I did my 2 varsity years, and 1/2 price lift tickets. Yours truly came in 16th out of 80 or so in slalom, the best of all Northern CA. You'll always see at least one racer in the Olympics from Truckee or Squaw Valley CA, it was fun to race with such high caliber atheletes.

FMF's would probably give it a lot more low end power and make the power more trail-able but not as much peak HP. I was running Rockets and 34mm TM Mikuni's, it came on the pipe at 6K and peaked out at almost 10K rpm. It is a dune port motor and has pretty low static compression because the exhaust port has been raised a lot. I'm just taking a guess, it would probably run like a full drag port on a stock stroke, power would be all or nothing, basically it would probably run like ass on the bottom end, good for sand only, but I'm sure you could do it. The domes would not work with the stock stroke either. I dont know why the pics aren't working yet today, I'll have it sorted out by this evening. I think it is just a glitch with propichosting.com

Jugs are from my 04' banshee motor dune ported with a tripple exhaust port (adds 2 small bost ports on either side of the main exhaust port) for a +4mm stroke long rod crank. They were done by Shorty's Racing near Portland OR. They said they built their motors using CPI's so I immagine they would work best with CPI's. I dynoed 65 SAE hp. With the perfect tuning and supporting mods, I'm sure 70 hp would be possible. I dont have a copy of the dyno sheet because it went down with my old computers hard drive last summer. The jugs were ran for approx 150 hrs (one season) on the first set of pistons after porting. They have been professionally tollerance checked and honed, they are 64.5mm bore, .020" over stock bore, ported for using a +4mm stroke crank and stroker domes. One stud had to be professionally heli coiled and holds 20 ft/lbs no problem. My large ass weighs 270 lb and I could ride 5th gear wheelies no problem on a stock swingarm. I never got beat by any YFZ450 going up sand mountain even when I was just running a stock swingarm and sandstars. Noss cool head style Stroker domes are 19cc and require 100 octane, or 50/50 110 race fuel and pump fuel. You dont need a spacer plate under the cylinder with these (just a .030" stock base gasket) domes and the squish came out to a perfect .030". They were custom cut by Noss Machine for a little more emphasis on mid range power rather than all top end. The pistons are brand new 795 series forged Wiseco 64.5mm .020" over bore. They will typically cost at least $165 shipped new. I prefer to sell all as a package deal but may separate if I can line up buyers for each individual part. I accept paypal or Money Order. Will go on e-bay in about a week or 2 if no interest here. Cylinders $425 shipped Pistons $150 shipped Domes $75 shipped All three package deal $575 shipped. Cylinders, Pistons, & domes shipped to your house for the same price as a good port job. The boost port (one of the 2 ports, tripple port exhaust) is shown in the top middle of this cylinder. Boost port as seen llooking into the main exhaust port from outside the cylinder, theres one on either side of the exhaust port. They are just above center, angle upwards and come out even with the top of the exhaust port inside the cylinder. Intake Thanks, Zack

You should be fine if you have an outerwear prefilter and clean it often. An oiled foam filter does clean the air better but the K&N flows more air.

That should do it. Id say probably 310's. Look into the intake neck of the cylinder when changing the reeds to make sure its not ported. If its ported you may need to go a couple sizes biger main.

#27.5 or 30 pilot, air scew 1.5 to 2 turns out Needle 3rd or 4th clip 300 - 310 main This is what I ran with foam filter, lid off close to sea level If you get a jet kit you will pay for a lot of junk jet sizes you dont need.

I get my jets from the stealership. They have a full selection up to around #350 and they only cost about $2 ea.

I had to make slotted holes in my stock hangers to fit the rockets. When I put them on real tite before the slotted holes the rubber split/tore appart and I had to replace it. If you get billet hangers just make sure you have room to ovall out the hole a little in case they fit too tight. Rockets are kinda inconsistant like that.

V-2's are nice, I suppose V-3's are probably better, but I will worn you, my V-2's started showing some little cracks between the fibers after only 150 hours or so. I do believe that at least the V-2 reeds seem to wear out a lot faster than reeds that are used with the stock reed cage. Its $110 to replace all the reeds on the V-2's or V-3's and they will wear out after a couple seasons at most. They are the best though.

Maybe I should just ask; What size domes do you run on your cub motor and what is the octane required? Ask a builder you say? OK, calling all builders, I'm asking.

Yes, they will be BB domes.

I asked this before but got no answer. What size domes for cheetah cubs 68mm bore +4 stroke using pump fuel, 100 octane, and 110 octane Lets assume +5 timming I'm thinking 91 octane - 22cc 100 octane - 20cc 110 octane - 19cc Does this sound about right?

I got a +4 just like in the link below. It uses the stock carrier, fits and works great. I bought it primered and painted it my self, but $275 for powder coated or $300 for chrome isn't bad either. When I bought it I got it for $185. e-bay swing arm shop

Dammage - bike no, ear drums yes.

Its probably something real simple. Change the plugs, clean the filter. If there is still a problem, make sure the carbs are in sync. If the slide is slightly lower on one side (out of sync) then that side will not idle as strong as the other. Idle is adjusted with the screws on the top backside of the TORS, adjust both sides evenly or you will make it out of sync. You also may just need to adjust the air screws. When the air temp gets a lot colder you may need to richen up the airscews, turn them in 1/2 to 1 turn, this adjusts the idle air fuel ratio making it richer. If your idle is real low you may need to turn the idle up a bit.

The Vito's super stock pistons have a notch in the exhaust side that effectively closes the exhaust port later and does the same thing as if you had the exhaust port ported and raised a bit. It sounds like your getting very mild porting, it will add a little more top end power.

cloeter If you have the wiseco +4mm stoker crank, it also comes with +5mm long rods. You must use 795 series pistons or blaster pistons if you go to a 68mm bore. These pistons have the wrist pin located 5 mm closer to the top of the piston to offset the longer rod. Also you need to figure out if your going to run a stroker (spacer) plate under the cylinders or get custom cut stroker domes to handle the longer stroke since the piston will now go above the top of the cylinder w/o a spacer plate under the cylinders. I think 55-60 hp is about what you may get with stock carbs and FMF fatties if it is tuned correctly. If you had 34mm carbs and inframe drag pipes you might get closer to or above 70. If you want more of an MX/trail motor I would stick with the FMF's. If you ride sand then get CPI, T-5's, ect.

The shop is called Looney Tooners. They haven't updated there site in a long time, it doesn't show all their products or services. Its right off I-5 in anderson near the outlets stores. Its a Father/Son business, Mike and Mick, very friendly. http://ltpatv.com/

My builder is local and he's getting 109 HP out of his cub banshee and he has his own dyno to try different combos, he also cuts his own domes as well, so I have confidence that he can set it up. However, the cub motors he's built so far have just been designed for race fuel. I just wanted some imput on how the cubs might run with lower compression on pump fuel and some idea of what dome sizes / timing / fuel combos people have tried and or reccomend.

My tax return was surprisingly larger than I expected this year thanks to a new baby and non working wife so I'm getting a set of cheetah cubs. I already have a +4mm stroke +5mm long rod motor with all the supporting intake mods. I'm going to get the 68mm bore +4mm long rod cub cylinders. I'm wondering how well the cub motor does on pump gas as far as low end power and what size domes to use for 91 oct pump gas at sea level. This shee is going to see 90% sand use but sometimes I like to take the sand trails with the wife too, where your not running WOT everywhere like in the open dunes. I saw a site selling 24 cc BB domes for pump fuel and 20 cc BB domes for race fuel. Does this sound about right? What kind of timing do you run for cubs using 91 pump fuel, 100 octane race fuel, or 110 octane race fuel, and appropriate dome size/ timming for each fuel choise. If there is a lot more low end available with smaller domes and 110 octane, its no big deal for me to get race fuel. But if its not going to make a real big torque difference to increase ridability on the sand trails and slower riding, I would like to run pump fuel to avoid the hastle. On week long trips to the OR dunes 20 gallons of race fuel tends to run out well before the week is up and I immagine fuel economy will go down pretty significantly with the cubs. What kind of jetting changes will I need to make, I assume a lot larger mains but how much larger. Curently I run 310 mains in my TM 34mm Mikuni's. Would I be safe starting with say a 350 main? Anybody run cubs with TM 34 Mikuni's?

40:1 with Maxima Castor 927. One bottle per 5 gallons, keeps it simple.