Ducman

+ 4 will work good in the dunes. If you go more than +2 in the dirt you spin the tires real bad and its hard to get the front end up on a surface like a dirt road. If your in softer material with good tires a +4 will work in the dirt, but I would say you will want from +2" to +4".

67.25mm is .050" over for a blaster piston. Vito's sells .050" over pistons in the superstock design. Measure the piston with a set of dial calipers to get the exact diameter, then you'll know what ya got. I wouldn't order a piston unless you know for sure what size, avoid the hastle of having to return parts.

How do you recycle a used rubber? Turn it inside out and shake the F*ck out of it!

resale value will also depend on how much riding area gets shut down to 2 strokes in the near future. In CA you cant ride in most OHV parks from june through the end of September. A lot of people already want only a 4 stroke so they can ride locally durring the summer, although it is so dry and dusty in those monthes it kinda sucks anyway.

I just measured the one that came off my +4mm motor and it was .030". I didn't build the motor so I wasn't sure what was in it. I had a pretty tight squish about .030 before my rebuild so I want to be sure to order another .030 gasket and I wasn't sure what stock was. Thanks

I searched and looked in the clymers and could not find the info. Can someone give me the thickness of a stock/OEM cylinder base gasket (not the head gasket). I think it is .012" or .010" and I'm not sure which one. Thanks in advance.

best bang for the buck and best all around tire for playing in the dunes are sandstars IMO. If you get some port work and a longer swinger later on you'll want some skat-traks.

I have some pipe seals for my rockets made by chosen performance. They weren't listed specifically for rockets but if you mesure the expansion chamber outlet and the stinger tube you can figure out which ones to use. I also had to trim off about 1/2" off the stinger tubes to make the bolt holes line up on the silencers and the stock mounting holes. There was also a guy on the HQ that made some pipe seals specifically for rockets. Search and you might figure out who it was.

You can get an Easy Out at sears or most hardware stores, maybe even a good auto parts store. You can get a new metric zerk fitting at most auto part stores.

Suzuki z-450R, fuel injection, sounds like its going to be bad ass... just a thought.

Yes, I know, I was just being lazy with the specifics. Most people just say 28mm, but yeah you dont want to "daylight" through the slide recess when boring. Good info on the oval boring though.

You can get the stock carbs bored for $50, whala, now you have 28mm carbs! Just make sure they aren't bored so much that the slide doesn't seal against the side of the carb bore. You'd get a much better bang for the buck getting some port work done on your cylinders rather than getting new carbs. Some day if you build a ported stoker or get some mean port work you'll want to go bigger than 28mm anyway.

Its hard to say for sure which jetting circuit caused the color on the porcelin since your 15 minutes of riding had all kinds of varried throttle position, however, that seems pretty dark to me for just 15 minutes of riding. I think your jetting is pretty rich on either the needle or the main. Usually after 15 minutes or varried riding I expect to see a tan color, not real dark like yours look. You need to pull the plug after a WOT to verify your mains which is what is important though. Banchetta has good tips on exactly where to read the color, once the porcelin turns black it typically stays that way so dont pay too much attention to that when doing a WOT plug read. I just thought I'd mention that the needle or main must be pretty rich though for it to turn that dark that fast.

Thats ironic...

Slut puppy whore dog! That would be embarrasing, your girlfriend forgetting to mention that she's a HOOKER!

MonoxideChild420, don't you have something better to do at 4:20 than click a button on a computer? You must be out?

First off dont listen to 96dragbanshee, 80% of his post is misinformation. Unless your actually running a fully built drag-only banshee 50 - 60 hrs before rebuilding the top end is rediculous. Nobody would own a banshee if maintenance was that insane. Most people go waaaay beyond 100 hrs of hard riding before needing a top end rebuild, if you have top end issues before 100 hrs you've got other problems or its an all out drag or race motor where reliability is somwhat compromised for performance. Second, get a Clymers manual like mentioned, it has all the maintenance and repair info you'll ever need. What 2 stroke oil should I use - pick one and stick with it, I like Maxima Cator 929 mixed at 40:1, otheres like amsoil, ect , yamalube at 32:1 is fine too but smells bad, just make sure you drain the tank before you start with new premix gas/oil, because a lot of oils will not mix and push another out of solution. transmission oil - change every 3rd ride or every 30 hours or so (or whatever climers says to, I probably go longer than what I'm recommending) I use Belray gear saver 75 or 80W, or you can use regular 4stroke engine oil as long as it doesn't have friction modifiers (most synthetics like Mobil 1 do have modifiers) spark plugs - B8es or Br8es they should last quite a while on a stock bike, inpect them and if they are clean, put them back in, or change ever 40+ hrs or so, gap at .030 (same as what they come gaped at new). lube chassis - every other ride or every 10 hrs or so re-ring pistons - check the compression and when they start to loose a significant amount, hone cylincers and replace rings, check that the cylinder bore is in spec. Make sure the chain is adjusted properly Make sure the air filter stays clean, if you still have the stock airbox lid with snorkle then it should take a long time for the filter to get dirty.

I agree with the above air leak theories.

Me three

Different types of portwork goes better with certain mods, pipes/carbs, and some builders like to set up a motor a very particular way, or their porting does best for top end or MX, ect applications. Bacally if you already have a lot of mods or a specific range of power you would like to empasise you might ask who specifically is good at this type of setup or just talk to a skilled knowledgable porter like Jim at Passion Racing and he can tell you what else you need and port specifically for the power characteristics you are looking for.

Anything over +4mm stroke crank has to have the case trenched to make clearance for the bottom of the rod.

Get T-5's with toomeys hush kit. It is very quiet, practically as quiet as stock but sounds better and a big improvement in power. If you want quiet that is the way to go.

If you really want a set, I have a set with the oldstyle silencers, chrome in very good condition ( a few flakes on the weld near the cylinders) with chosen performance pipe seals. Not actively trying to sell, but have been thinking about trying something different.

TM Designworks from RMatv here. Just about any case saver is probably going to work fine. If you want to run 15 and 16 tooth front sprockets you might want to do more reasearch because many wont fit the 16 and some wont fit a 15. Most could probably be dremmeled to fit a bigger front through.

Most people get port work done when they stroke a motor. The porting alone typically causes them to go to larger main sizes. They also have pipes and many other mods which require larger mains. However, with a longer stroke the motor can more efficiently pull in an intake charge, so with no other changes the main size needed could actually go down. 220 is in the range of the stock main size on banshee carbs with no mods of any kind, bone stock. So you still have a completely stock shee with a 4mm stroker crank? I don't know what you mean by RDLC carbs. Also, what do you mean that the top end seams strange? Elaborate on strange. One more thing, before making major jetting changes, if it starts and runs ok, you should break it in good before making changes because when the rings are fully set, the motor isn't loaded with extra oil in the case, it has reached a steady operating temp and the plugs are able to self clean, it will run a lot different than when you are first breaking it in. To be safe, ride it extra gentle, I'm sure you will since your breaking it in, dont go WOT if you know you have jetting issues unless you are doing it for a plug check. If you are really lean you will melt pistons if you get carried away and do very many WOT blasts.