Ducman

+1 couldn't have said it better

+1

27.5 pilots w/air scews about 1.5 turns out, needle on the 3rd or 4th clip from the blunt end, 300 (summer air temps) to 320 (winter air temps) mains

Dude you should try to push my thumb throttle with two 34 Mikuni FS's. I cut 4 coils off the springs and it will still make you cry after 5 minutes. My friend laughed when I had him push my thumb throttle. You can get used to it if you ride often enough. My twist was nice for saving the thumb but is was also harder on the wrist and I think I can controll the throttle better with the thumb.

A V-twin banshee would be cool as long as it doesn't suck like the KFX700 V-twin.

I am running the YFZ 450 front shocks on stock a-arms right now and they are reaaaaaaly stiff but I weight 270 so they work for me. They are longer than the stock shocks so they will raise the height an inch or so in the front. I like the increase in ground clearence, I rarely drag the frame over obsticles now. They would probably work much better on +2 a-arms for most people. They are a big pain in the ass to install in the stock a-arms due to the shockl being to long, I had to unhook the top a-arm from the spindle to bolt it in, and then compress it a little to bolt the top a-arm back to the spindle. You also have to do a little grinding to the upper and lower shock mount and to the lower shock eye to make them fit.

I think I spent darn near $2k just to convert my motor from a +4mm stock cylinder stroker to a 68mm bore +4mm cheatah cub stroker with all the junk I needed besides just the $1050 cylinders and pistons.

Mine had tiny cracks and were wearing out on the corners causing them not to seal good after 1 year or about 150 hrs. I probably could have flipped them over but I decided not to chance it with my new motor. They wear out pretty fast and you have to remove the petal to see the wear on the corners where the reed touches the cage.

That was pretty well said. Stewart is awsome but he doesn't know when he's pushed it too far. I think RC is just about as fast but makes a concious decision to not push as hard as Buba who will find himself on the injured list pretty regularly if he doesn't settle for consistency rather than first place every once in a while.

I didn't think I could afford to have my wife stay at home but its working out fine. You'd be supprised how much less money you loose in taxes when you go from claiming married +1 decuction to married +3 deductions on your W2. I gained about $400 per month and got back $4000 on my tax returns rather than paying $1500. My wife is a lot happier than she ever was when she was working and I cant immagine anyone else taking care of my little girl. I would definitely try to make it work. Ps, our formula bill never got over $125/mo

Most people on the HQ go with Keihins so you'll be able to get the most jetting advise for those. As for manifolds the cheapest is UPP that are like the stock manifolds but fit a 34-36mm carb, Boss manifolds are a nice billet manifold and probably the cheapest billet ones for around $150, or prodesign are nice for around $200. I have a set of 21x12x8 9 paddle extremes and +4 swing arm on my +4mm cub shee, and I have the same problem you have with launches. I also weigh 270 which doesn't help. Too much wheel spin for drag racing. But it works great for all around duning and would probably fry my barnett clutch if it hooked up any better. I would suggest some 22" extremes with 10 or more paddles for the best launches.

You could get a set of CPI's from gopartsdirect.com for $550 shipped. Thats what I'd probably run. If you want to be a little different then you could go shearer Rocket or GRR but all of these pipes are fairly similar. I have a nice set of rockets that I have been thinking of selling. PM me if interested.

RK is better but I have a primary drive gold o-ring now that seems to be doing fine.

look in sudco.com or proflow.com you will find some expanded views of each model of mikuni carb and dimensions for each carb model.

The most important thing is to know what octane you require and buy fuel accordingly. When people talk about AV gas they typically mean 100LL which is around 100 - 101 octane. That is not enough octane for some motors. VP C12 is 112 octane and is expensive and C-16 is 116 octane and like at least $8 gal. If you only need 100 octane then just run AV gas. If you need 110 then get some, I paid $5.75/gal for "76" brand 110, VP C-12 will cost you a lot more. As far a storing gas, just make sure it is in an air tight sealed container and in cool temperatures and not exposed to the sun. If the light part of the fuel evaporates it will decrease performance. I believe most race fuels will store longer than typical pump fuel. I wouldn't try not to store it longer than 6 monthes though.

Sorry to hear about the bad luck. I have the Mikuni flatslide TM 34mm's. Right now for with my +4mm stroke cheetah cubs I run 35 pilots, airscrews 2 turns out, P8 needle jet orafice (dump tube) (2 sizes smaller than what comes stock in the TM 34's - Q2), and I run the needle on the top clip, I may need to go one step leaner on the dump tube, and 330 mains. Still breaking in the motor and fine tuning the jetting. When I had the dune port stock cylinders and +4 crank I ran a 310 main and needle on the second clip from the blunt end. My shee starts first kick, and starts easy with the choke when cold and idles purrrrfect. I would go with a 30, 32.5 or 35 pilot, P8 or P6 dump tube, and a 300 main for starters. The trickiest thing about jetting the TM 34 Mikuni is getting the correct needle jet orafice and a needle setting. The needle jet orafice that comes with the TM 34's is a Q2 and it is waaaaaaay to rich even with the needle on the first clip from the top which will make it bog like a SOB at part throttle. The following link shows a list of the available needle jet orafices from lean to rich. http://www.sudco.com/cat32/56-58.pdf

To measure squish, remove the spark plug, take a long piece of electrical solder and put it through the plug hole untill it contacts the inside cylinder wall. Then turn the crank with your hand on the kickstart so the piston goes past TDC. The piston will smash the solder against the squish band of the dome. Then you can measure your squish. I always make sure to get the piston near the top of its stroke, and still moving upward before inserting the solder so I dont shear off the end of the solder in one of the ports. Also try to measure on either sides of the piston above the wrist pin so the piston doesn't try to tip away from the solder when it smashes it. Its easiest to do when the tank is off but not neccessary. Then take a set of dial callapers or a micrometer and measure the thickness of the smashed solder near the tip which should represent the squish at the outer edge of the dome. Most solder is .060" so if it doesn't show any smashed area at the end of the solder then your squish is bigger than .060" and you need a fatter piece of solder or twish a piece of the .060" around itself so you have about 4" of twisted solder. Once you have this measuremet you can either send noss your domes which is best so he can measure the domes actual cc's and specs, or just measure the lip on the underside of the dome on the outer edge. Once you know these 2 dimensions Noss can cut you a new dome that will result in .035" of squish and he can give you a little wider or narrower squish band depending on if your looking for more low end or top end performance and your new domes cc's shoud be a true 20cc when the piston is at TDC.

I dont think it would hurt to just throw them on and do a plug check with your current jetting. From what I've heard CPI is supposed to be a more efficient pipe than rockets, ie they dont need quite as big of a main, but there has also been dyno tests by I believe Loco and PassionRE comparing Rockets and CPI and they said that the jetting from one to the other was close enough to use the same settings. Soooo... Maybe just try it like it is.

For gear oil change 1.6 Quarts or 1.5 liters After taking the clutch side cover off it takes 1.8 quarts or 1.7 liters

Yea dajogejr and buttermilk, I didn't pay close attention to the details in the signature. But just to add an example to this post, I too tried to go with 100 octane rather than 110 and detonated with my 4mm stroker, dune ported stock cylinders. I only measured 145 psi but my exhaust ports (tripple ported) were a lot higher than stock and I had 19cc stroker domes. I could run 100 octane at home and sand mountain, all 500' elevation and above, but at the Oregon dunes 0- 400' elevation in 50 degree weather it detonated badly, also partly due to too lean of a needle setting. But it would not have detonated with 110 that I ran several times before with this settup at the OR dunes.

You absolutely do not want to use Mobil 1. It has friction modifiers that will help your clutch slip. It is best if you can buy gear oil made specifically for a 2 stroke motorcyle gear box like 80w Bel Ray or Maxima gear oil, but 10w-30 or 10w-40 4stroke engine oil will work fine, but just get the cheap dynosaur oil, not the synthetic stuff.

MILO, have you measured your squish? I have had Noss cut custom domes for me twice now because the ones that were installed when my motor was built had too much or not enough squish pluss to big or too little domes to get the psi I was looking for. Both times it has ran waaaay better with the custom domes that get the squish and psi to optimum specs pluss custom dome design. Most noticeable in the bottom end to midrange power, but I'm sure it improved all the way through the power range. Off the shelf domes are usually made with a little safety factor built in to the squish so it ends up a lot bigger than what is optimum. Also the cylinder base gaskets you use can change your squish up to maybe as much as .020" depening if you use stock .030" or some of the the thinner aftermarket ones, closer to .010". If you measure your squish an you are .070" and get domes cut so you are .035" then you couldl probably gain about 10 -15 psi which would get you to the 150 psi you were looking for. If your squish is big enough it could be adding a couple extra cc to each dome so it would be like running 22cc domes. There are also other more complex things included in dome design, but the squish tollerance is a big part. Cylinder volume = Pi(Radius^2)height Example Squish (height).035" = .0889cm Diameter = 66mm = 6.6cm = 3.3cm Radius 3.14(3.3^2).0889 = 3cc So having squish at .070" adds 3cc per dome over a squish that measures .035" given the same dome shape/ size but adding .035" of squish

Maybe he's running 17cc domes? Anyway, its pretty high compression and will surely wear out the top end and crank much faster if 220psi is correct.

Quite a while back I went from FMF Gnarlies to Rockets. My jetting just went up a couple sizes on the mains, from 290's to 310's. If the only thing you are changing is the pipes, depending on what you had before (like FMF's), you may need to go up a couple sizes.

80overShee is probably right about how you are going to have to get it out. Your shift shaft was probably not adjusted correctly, not enough free play so it was constantly being pushed against the ball and preasure plate causing friction = heat and welded the end of the shaft. You want the little pointer on the clutch arm to line up with the mark on the case. This ensures that you have enough free play. You adjust the amount of shaft freeplay with the little nut on the outside of the pressure plate. It helps to have a mechanic show you what to look for as far as how to adjust the shaft free play in the clutch adjustment. The first time I adjusted mine I did it wrong, the lever feels better (firmer, less slop in the lever) when the freeplay is taken out, but a mechanic pointed out my error and told me what the consecquences would be before I ran the engine. There is a mod you can do that adds a bearing to the pressure plate rather than the steel ball that prevents this problem from happening and gives a better feel to the clutch pull do to less freeplay. I think this mod is usually done when you go to a locking clutch.