bodge

Thanks for your help. will i have to replace the gasket below the cylinders as well or just the head gasket?

I heard it when it was running bad.I would say it was half to full throttel when it was doing the fault.. He has used it about 4 times and between 5 to 10 miles each time. Im going to try it tomorrow and see how it runs. the quad has done about 600 miles in all, so am i best to remove the heads and look?

I sold my 06 banshee to a mate :mad: , it had very little use and was running fine. it has .... alien exhausts carbs jetted for above +4 t/plate v force 3 reeds My so called mate has let me down and returned the quad to me. The problem i have is that he said it started not to run like it used to, it lacks power and and when you give it some throttle it coughs and splutters. i got the quad back today and seams ok now. so could it have been some dirt in the carbs? And if it was carb related could it have done any damage to the pistons ect? Should i remove the heads and have a look or just leave it alone?

Ok guys im thinking of spending some money on my engine. I will have about

I have done just that, Thanks

Will 1.5 inch wheel spacers change the way my shee turns? When doing do-nuts? Do they make my turning circle bigger or smaller? I found it hard to do-nut on the spot at the beach yesterday and the only thing i have done is fitted front spacers.

like Josh says, the hose from the head.

This works great, any one looking for a regulator go for one of these from trailtech. The screw on it lets you set the dc volts output from 11v to 17v. Rewired all the lights so they are earth return to the battery and not the frame and everything is working great. Just need some hid's now

Just got a reply back from Jeff at trailtech.net He says it is a trail tech regulator but with the baja designs logo on. Didnt tell me what the screw was for tho :ermm: ::

It says baja designs on the side of it? you can just see the screw on it.

Hi i think i know where i have gone wrong! I just found this info on trailtech.net. I put all my earts to the frame :baseball_bat: http://www.trailtech.net/ac-dc%20key%20concepts.pdf STEP 4: FLOAT THE GROUND Many AC systems have one lead going from the stator to the lights, and another going from the lights to frame ground. For a DC system, the ground must be floated. DC systems require a continuous circuit and must not be frame grounded. The stator must be rewired to float the ground. You can get a qualified technician to perform the task. It involves unsoldering several leads, possibly winding extra coils (for extra wattage) and soldering it back together. STEP 7: GROUNDING DC systems require a continuous circuit and must not be frame grounded. Proper grounding requires the ground wires connected to the negative terminal on the battery. If the battery is frame grounded it will cause extra voltage fluctuation, prevent the battery from charging, and a larger load will be put on the regulator making it considerably hotter. Light bulbs may flicker or act erratically and most black boxes will simply fail to function at all.

Got a regulator today from trailtech. I know the yellow wires go to the ac wires from the stator red is + dc out black is earth But what is the blue wire for? Also it has like a potentiometer screw on the top, What does this do. Cheers Gaz

Ok thank you i will order one now. Lets hope it does fix my problem. Gary

would it be ok to use a 150w regulator with a 200w rs stator? running stock lights with 55w bulbs.

Ok i removed the voltage regulator and put the flooting wire back on the stator ground and conected my stock regulator back up so it all runs ac volts. All lights work fine so thats the stator that is ok. I still need to know how to test the regulater/rec is it just a bunch of diodes inside? Also do these fail a lot? just its only been on for 2 months . Gary