Ducman

I got up to around $600 through priceline and still no takers even for a POS economy car. Hotwire was the best so far at $653.54 I'm hoping to find someone with a discount code and plug it in for one of the rental car companies and see what rates it gives on line. someone also suggested this on another forum N2O kit

A couple things I see, toomeys are going to be better on a stock port motor, your main jetting is probably a couple sizes too rich, if the other bike is jetted perfect that will be a prety big advantage, and in the sand on a stock motor the 13 tooth front will give an advantage in acceleration going from a dig. I'm assuming you both ran the same paddles.

Trying to get a rental car in Kona HI for a 3 week visit to my moms house. Cheapest I have found so far is through Hotwire for $653.54 (including taxes and surcharges) for a bear can economy car. Next cheapest is Alamo at $730 which is in line with most other retal car company quotes. Taxes and surcharges due to renting at the Kona airport are rediculous at around $130 for 3 weeks. I keep on comming across rental car sights asking for discount codes. Can I use somebodys code and get away with it? Anybody got one? How much would I save.

Its just like riding a scooter or a fat girl, it fun untill your friends catch you doing it. I had a guy that I worked with that was all proud of his. I had never ridden one and he knew I was into fast quads so he let me ride it. He was even more dissapointed in my reaction than I was with its performance.

Eel River Stout! :beer: This stuff's like 8.0 alky thick as chocolate milk and twice as dark and very smooth not bitter. Only place that I've ever been able to buy it is at the bar in the Mt Shasta ski park.

The anodized noss heads look sweet, and you cant beat Noss customer service. Can you call any other head manufacture and ask questions or have them make you a custom set of domes to fix your squish clearance issues?

You could buy a cover made for a lock up clutch with a removable window that allows for the removal of the clutch pack w/o taking the whole side cover off. That is the same idea you are going for. You might try cutting a large hole in the cover under the yamaha logo vibration damper and make a gasket so the cover seals the hole. This might work better with an aftermarket all aluminum cover cause the stock cover is plastic.

Darn, I wanted to leave the motor in the frame. I figured it would take me more time to pull the motor than just fighting with the cylinders in the frame. I know it would be easier to put the cylinders on out of the frame but has anyone done it while the motor is in the frame or is it impossible?

Is it easier to just pull the motor to remove and re-install cub cylinders or can it be done while the engine is in the frame? The nuts in the front of the cylinders are going to be a bitch in sure. The builder that originally installed them did a little clearance grinding around the front stud area to make accessing the nuts with a wrench a little easier. I haven't had to do it yet and was just wondering how hard it was to do w/o pulling the motor. The builder I had install the cylinders originally did it with the motor out and said that it was really hard to do with the motor in the frame.

Theres 2 routes you can go. 1. Mesure your squish (you already have) and send the domes to Noss, He can then cut you domes with the correct squish clearance. He can also cut the dish of the dome a little higher with a wider squish band or flatter with a narrower squish band to give you a little more low end or top end power. 2. If you have a stock .030" base gasket, get a .010" base gasket. If you have a .030" gasket then I would reccomend route#2. By going with a thinner base gasket you will lower all the ports and tighten up the squish at the same time which should get you more static compression than just getting new domes cut. I had the same exact problem with my cubs and I got new domes. My compression now is around 135 with 19cc domes (.040 squish) and it was around 115 with 20cc domes (.065" squish if I remember correctly). I should have just went the .010" base gasket route and new domes but I didn't want to pull the cylinders since it was a new motor. Another thing that I had all jacked up was that I used "Off the shelf" prodesin big bore domes and they were cut for banshee pistons, I have blaster pistons which have less of a dome = less degree of an angle to the squish. So my squish clearance was around .065" near the edge and off even more once you went towards the center of the cylinder. Also on the detonation, you wont always hear it. I killed a set of pistons on a +4mm stock cylinder dune port motor with 19cc domes running 100 octane because I went a little too lean. I was only like 135 psi due to high exhaust ports. My pistons were covered with voids around the edges like little pin pricks and I never heard any obvious detonation noise and trust me I can ususally hear it from a mile away.

I have been running the Barnett with the HD springs and I haven't had any clutch slip issues with my +4 mil cub motor. It would slip the stock clutch pretty easy on hard shifts. I think the key is the stiffer springs. They do make the clutch pull A LOT stiffer though. Lots of peeps on the HQ swear by the Fast kit though. You can find barnett for pretty cheap if you look around for a while on Fleebay.

I dont know how many of you follow Moto GP but I have been a big fan of AMA superbike, World superbike, and Moto GP racing for a long time and I'm really stoked to see Nickey get the Moto GP championship. My wife and I have been big Nickey Haden fans for at least 8 years now. We were impressed to see him at Sears Point in about 98' racing for the Kawasaki SBK team when he was 16 or 17. I have a picture of Nickey Haden with his arm around my wife out having fun one night on Cannery Row - Monterey/Laguna Seca, way back when he had his wackey leapord spotted hair doo, when he was racing AMA superbike in about 1999. I really loved when he put an end to Ol' Mat Maladins AMA superbike championship winning streak a few years ago. However, Moto GP is the ultimate street bike championship in the world and I cant believe that Valentino Rossi blew it yesterday and handed Nickey the tittle. Nickey had such a good start to the 06' season after only winning 1 race at Laguna Seca in 05 (his first year in Moto GP), and then the last part of this season he had a tough time finishing better than 5th and his points lead kept dwindeling. When Dani Pedrosa, his Honda team mate, wrecked him in the second to last race causing him to substantially loose his points lead, I could have punched my computer screen! It was unbelievable that both luck and awsome riding skill were 100% on his side yesterday and he pulled it off. I was jumping for joy when Rossi was suckin gravel yesterday. Congrats to Nickey a well deserved Championship. Man I hope I can make it to Moto GP at Laguna Seca next year.

The expansion chamber looks the same as the old rocket pipes, but the silencer and I assume stingers as well, looks like a new and better design. Glad to see the new company putting out a good product and good customer service.

If it has a rough "cast" look to the entire port then it is not ported. It could be painted but that would be very unusual. I would take it to a mechanic to check the rod end play to see if it is in spec and you should flush the case to make sure all the bits of metal are out. Sounds like the piston was slapping, probably incorrect cylinder tollerances. Hopefully getting it bored correctly might fix the problem, but you need to have the crank checked out too.

Gotta be electrical. Try cleaning the spark plug wire connections. Stock wires are pretty crappy and get a lot of corosion unless you use a lot of dialectric grease. Also since you said one plug was black and wet and the other is bown makes me think the problem in not in the CDI or coil pick up system since both plugs always fire at the same time.

Just make sure you line up the clutch arm pointer with the mark on top of the case so there is some free play with the clutch rod. You adjust this with the nut in the center of the clutch hub. The clutch lever feels better to me when the freeplay with the rod is taken out but I know better because I asked a mechanic before doing mine and he showed me a melted clutch rod that can be the result. As far as break in, just ride like normal.

When I had FMF gnarlies, air box lid off and a foam filter I ran 290's in colder weather, 40 to 60 degrees. Since you have a K&N and sst's I'd say you should run at least a 300, maybe a 310 if it is 40 degrees or colder.

I think your jettings good too.

I think Ima hafta get me one of those applied racing perches for $30.

WTF, the only time the sand ever cathes on fire is when there is gasoline and burning tires. I had to get some sparkies at the dealer for my rockets. I think they were around $90 for the pair. It sucks though because I dont want to drill a hole into the silencers to use the screw that came with the sparkies to make sure the sparkies dont fall off. I have to safety wire them to the frame in case they fall off, and one did once. Its hard to get the hose clamps tight enough so that the sparkies are secure. At least they dont seem to affect the power, or jetting.

The bottom of the case is usually covered with the fuzz, its normal.

I had the BR8EIX plugs in for around 50 hours and they started having a wierd miss at WOT in the upper rpms. The plugs looked fine but I put a new set of BR8ES in and the miss went away. I have heard others say they had this miss at seemingly low hours with the EIX plug as well. At $9 ea that sucks that they went bad like that. The BR8EGV is almost the same exact plug as the EIX except it has a platnum electrode instead of iridium and I have hear that it doesn't go bad like the iridium. I'm just sticking with the elcheapo B8ES and changing them often now.

I have those same tires except with the extreme paddles. You might want to check and make sure yours arn't the extremes and or update this add. Worth a couple more $'s. They are a kick ass fun all around dune paddle for a +4 swinger with a little extra grunt in the motor department. bump for ya.

Yeah, the first time I saw a pair of skat trak paddles they said cheing shin (sp?) on the side, I was like WTF? I think my pair says kings tire or some such shat.

I'd just put it in gear, and if its the clutch spring bolts, I would just hand tighten it with a small closed end wrench. Those things are darn easy to snap off using a torque wrench that has a 12"+ handle.