Ducman

These 2 statements are as contradictory as your story about your nearly stock shee and 120mph. That's ok dude. I didn't mean anything I said in a mean spirited way. Just couldn't resist sturring the pot a little and kicking you while you were down. You react to everything everyone writes so it's a lot of fun to get you all fired up. I'd hate to see what your like with a few drinks in ya. Fireblade big whoopty do, but the MV is a sweet ride. Not the fastest pony in the stable (you wouldn't be passin my duck) but makes up for that with some sweet stylish looks. Got a pic of you on it? If you can afford a $27K streetbike and still have $ for other pricy toys, why are you riding such a stock shee? No response necessary!

Yes, I have read them, and the fact that you are saying 120mph and not 120kph is precisely why I/we are saying you are mistaken. Take another look at your friends spedometer and you will see that the the larger outer ring of numbers is measured in KPH and the smaller inner ring of numbers is measured in MPH, just the opposite of the cars produced for sale in the U.S. And my duck (Ducati 996) is one hungry asphalt eating son of a bitch! It would eat your banshee, or mine for that matter, on pavement without even shifting out of second gear and that's no joke!

This link describes its function and has a good pic of a head but doesn't actually point it out real well. http://trinityracing.com/products/yamaha/b...eeheadmods.html The squish band is the flater angled area around the perimeter of the combustion chamber, the area surrounding the deeper domed part. In this particular pic it is the area that has the groves cut into it (Trinity's "turbo" head mod).

Damb, I have been surfing BHQ the whole time this thread was going and just now checked it out. I missed all of this hilarious shit untill today! And of baby is it deep. I don't think anyone has mentioned this yet so I'll throw it out there. The chase car has a speedo that is in kph. If you convert 120 kph to mph it comes out to 75 mph. You guys are all being to tough on pore ol' tithead. Seriously, he was only exadurating his speed by about 4 mph which would put his speed right at 71 mph which is what you meanie guys have been trying to tell this poor little dumbshit son of a sheep idiot moron for a whole month now. Of coarse I could be wrong cause the monkies flying out of his ass probably add a tremendous amount of thrust just like the propulsion developed by that F-14's twin turbofan jet engines previously mentioned.

Some shops like Trinity recut the squish band so it maintains the correct squish clearance. Do you know if they recut yours or not?

Good link, important info to consider after geting port work. My $0.02 on the race fuel is that the expensive leaded stuff with additives do a good deal to help protect a 4 stroke valve train but really nothing for a 2 stroke due to the oil added to the fuel for lube and wears out plugs faster. A waste of money unless your compression dictates the need for a really high octane or you are addicted to the lovely perfume it creates when burned. Adding lead to fuel is a less expensive way for the manufacturer to bump up a fuels octane rating and provides added valve train lubrication which shee don't got. On the other hand, unleaded high octane fuel like some of the unleaded AV gas, or like the fuel like I buy from Northern Evergy in CA, unleaded 98 octane for $3/gal, are just more highly refined resulting in a fuel that burns a lot cleaner and has a way better shelf life. There is a huge difference in the large quantity of black soot that regular ol' 91 pump gas leaves VS the small amount of light gray colored soot left with the unleaded 98 in the pipes on my Ducati 996. Also if for some reason while your out riding and come into a lean running condition on your 2 stroke ie. temp drops by several degrees, jets get partially clogged or dirty and restricts flow, whatever, then you may run into a detonation problem where none existed before if you are running the lowest possible octane. 3 main factors contribute to a detonating temp inside the cylendar; actual temp of the piston/head/cylendar itself giving off heat to the gasses flowing through the combustion chamber, dynamic and statick compressions (pv=nrt), and the ability of the fuel in the A/F mixture to absorb heat. Dump enough fuel, even low octane and you will absorb the heat and not detonate (the later resulting in shee's too rich to run right). Some turbo cars even inject small amounts of water in with the A/F to absorb the heat to prevent detonation under high boost when not enough fuel can be dumped to cool the intake charge. Lean conditions (and other factors causing high cylendar temps) go hand in hand with detonation by causing higher cylender temps. I think if you can get this fuel the extra $1 per galon is well worth it for cheap insurance in the short run to protect in the event of conditions which could result in detonation (if your piston doesn't melt first at least you might not poke holes in it) and extend the engines life by keeping the cylendar and exhaust track cleaner in the long run. Wow that $0.02 was more like $1.02, sorry for the long wind!

Plese keep us posted after the impending ass hander takes place Ledofthezep. If he shows up with his new 450R it may actually make for some good dragging and bragging and even more creative excuses.

For FMF Gnarleys or Fattys with a proflow foam air filter setup and keeping the airbox lid on and removing the snorkle. Jetting is #30 pilots, air screws 2.5 turns out, needles in stock position (middle clip), #260 mains. If you remove the air box lid then use #280 mains. Foam filters aren't as high flowing as K&N's which nets a little less performance, but work much better/more reliable in mud, water, and dusty conditions.

Anyone have any opinions about the GBC paddle master. It's advertised as being able to handle tough terain and not break paddles, one of the preferences in fixitrods sand tire question, but I wonder how do they work in the soft deep sand like Oregon doons. Are they worth considering since they are only $50 per tire at Rocky Mountain for a 20x11x10. I like the hauler more but they're a bit more expensive, like $30 per tire, or is the performance of the hauler worth it? I don't mean to intrude on the original question so please ignore if this is rude, but, I would like to know if I shouldn't even get straight paddles if I plan on just playing around in the sand some of the time; stuff involving turning on the doons, brodies ect. I enjoy hill climbs mostly but I want somthing that can be fun and perform reasonably well for other stuff as well. So far I've only had experience with 250r's using "V" shaped paddles and I wasn't real impressed with their hill climb capabilities. Thanks, Zack Thanks, ledofthezep, for the tip on the "Sand King's Turbo Paddles" 20-10-10 8 paddle this sounds like it may be the tire for me; inexpensive and great performance.

My stock pipe clamp for the pipe to silencer connection also didn't fit good at all on my FMF Gnarlies. I like the suggestion quoted, and its almost free. I just run mine w/o a clamp. Looks cleaner because the FMF connection isn't hidden by the plastic and it seems to leak very little, definitely not enough to make a diference. I don't even notice my leak anymore and it has been decreasing over time with carbon and oil build-up.

I have an 04' with FMF Gnarlies with a twin air (foam filter w/ airbox adapter) at 400' Elev. My air filter is pretty similar to the stock one with the air box lid on. Mine starts and idles very nice and has great bottom end power and throttle responce and goes into the power band real crisp and clean. I have the air box lid on but it still seems to idle decent with the lid off as well (of course just to test the idle only). It may be hard to compare idle air screw settings since you have a K&N which is a lot less restrictive but the Gnarley and Fatty are tuned very similar so mabe my setting can help. I have #30 pilots with the air screws 2.5 turns out, needle in the stock position, 260 mains. I'm guessing that you should be at close to the same settings except air screws a little richer to compensate for more air flow (approx 1.5 turns out) and about +6 larger on the mains (=320 mains just like banshee04le said) since you have the (+4K&N) and no(+2 air box lid). The needle shouldn't have a real big effect at idle but you should probably have the clip in the middle (stock position - 3rd grove from either end) since you have still have stock reeds unless you want to fine tune after getting a good setting on the mains. I tried one clip richer on the needle on my shee and it still ran fine but it seems a little better on the stock needle setting. I'd suggest that you get the idle (pilots jets) and off idle throttle responce correct first because the bike has to idle good or you'll always have various problems with starting and riding when testing settings. I think you should be using #30 pilots but try first with the stock 25's to see if you can make them work without adjusting the airscrews too far. Just a suggestion since mine has great bottom end, 27.5's would also probably work. Also, if you get a good setting on the mains first but the thing still doesn't idle good and you end up changing the pilots you will also affect the main jets causing you to have to rejet the mains again. Usually if you go up 1 or 2 sizes on the pilots then you'll need to go down one size on the main. Hope this proves to be sound advise. I'm definitely not a pro at this stuff, but mine runs good with similar mods and was feeling you pain so I hope this helps.

Thats funny, I was just about to post this same question. My FMF Gnarleys also touch the water hose. They are touching pretty firmly. I had at least 3 or 4 hrs after putting the pipes on before I noticed the lack of clearance. I rode it about another 2 hrs since I discovered the problen and I still can't even tell by looking at, or feeling the hose that they touch, but I'm sure it will severely shorten the life of the hose or burn through eventually. I think the best solution would be to get some header insulation tape and wrap the hose as previously mentioned. Although, to properly do this I would need to remove the pipe and I'm not sure how well the tape will stick once it gets wet a few times. Therefore, I am going to go with a lasy approach at first and try a short piece of hose that is slightly larger in diameter than the radiator hose, splitting it, and putting it around the radiator hose for insullation. If the split hose trick doesn't cause any melted rubber, or ill effects then It will become perminant.

I erecently bought a set of FMF Gnarleys and they came with #30 pilots and #260 mains for use with the stock airbox and filter. The jets and instructions that came with the FMF Gnarley kit were actuall for fatties as that is what was referenced in the instructions. The Fatties and the Gnarleys are fairly close in performance so I would assume that your problem could be that you need larger pilots.