Ducman

My local autoparts store "Franklin Auto Parts" carries a 14mm +1 oversize self tapping drain plug. I used grease in the plug to catch the shavings, which there was a pretty minute amount and flushed the case. The plug only cost $4 and was very simple to install. I was very satisfied with the outcome, the plug now screws in and seats/seals just as good as new. I looked into drilling and tapping to install an oversize drain plug or helicoil and it was goig to be very expensive. If you could find a mechanic that already had the size of helicol kit you need then it might not be too expensive but will still probably cost a lot more than $4.

modquad banshee head Looking at the picture on their website, since the holes where the studs come through the heads are recessed they should use the stock studs. You need a o-ring kit if you dont have one, noss or prodesign compatable o-ring kit will work. I haven't heard much about the modquad head but I'm sure it will work just fine. They make some quality parts.

Try a 310 main, #30 pilot w/ air screws 2 turns out, needle middle clip

Try some 320 mains, 340 is a little big for a stock port motor unless it is realy cold out. Your band on the first pics looks pretty dark. If they are over 2mm in width or real dark then you are rich. The bottom pics dont look too bad but Its hard to tell how thick the band is.

vitovito240 My rockets are similar to how you described. I split a radiator hose and used a hose clamp to keep it in place around the stinger so it wouldn't bang into the frame or put heat into the frame on the right side. On the left side I did the same and used a few heavy duty zip ties to help pull the singers towards the frame and also to insulate the stinger so it wouldn't melt any more holes in my K&N pod filter outerwear.

What kind of riding are you going to do? If you are going to go big in the future, stoked w/ aftermarket cylinders, then get some CPI's, if you might just get your cylinders ported then T5's might be the best choise, if you are not riding the doons or wide open places, just trails and such, then go with the FMF's.

I didn't read all of the above posts, but a couple things I can say for sure. Check your squish, you can loose a lot of compression if the squish is too much. .030" to .040" is typically ideal. Also off the shelf domes that are cut for banshee pistons are going to give up compression when used with blaster pistons because blaster pistons have less of a dome, flatter dome, and need a flatter squish angle. When you measure the squish the solder will only be smashed at the very edge of the cylinder and will get thicker quickly as you go towards the middle of the cyliinder. Also if you have a motor capable of 80hp then the exhaust port is going to be pretty high and that will also give you low static compression. My best advice is measure the squish and send the domes to Noss. He will then be able to cut some new domes that will have a perfect squish angle and clearance and dome size to maximise the type of fuel you want to run. I have had to do this on two different motors and both times Noss cut some custom domes for me that came out perfect. Also check to make sure the air gap on the flywheel timing pick up is at .020", your description of poor performance sounds similar to when I had the timing pick up air gap too large.

First question, is it possible I overheated the engine? Not likely Second question, do dealers actually start these things and make sure they run before sending them out? No, but the carb settings are pretty much the same on a stock shee unless you are at a high elevation or really cold temps Third question, should I use that much coolant (From the Max mark to the Min mark on a cold engine, no signs of leaking or overflow) in about 30 minutes of riding? I would leave the coolant at the low mark, it'll just poop out the coolant untill its happy if you fill the radiator clear full and and fill the resevoir to the high mark. So yes this is normal. It wont loose anymore coolant. Check the radiator level if you are worried. Fourth question, what coolant do you guys like to run? engine ice After you run through the break in tank if you want to keep using yamalube 2R mix it at 32:1 or 36:1 and change your plugs. At the end of your second tank it will run totally different (better) than it is now. Some motors break in a little slower/faster than others. When you go WOT for several seconds you'll get it cleared out and it will run better.

I'm no expert but I think you mainly just want to port match to the gasket. You dont need to blend it very far into the case.

pokeatyou2, is the 98 octane you are using rated using the (R+M)/2 method? Thats what it is in the U.S. It will usually show the method right next to the octane rating right on the pump most of the time. If that is the case then you should run 19cc domes. 18cc domes would be pushing it.

The porcelin insulator is at least 10mm long. 2 mm is just a hair larger than 1/16" You need to pull the largest gear that you can for several seconds. If on flat ground that would be 6th gear for about 6 seconds. If you can only just hit 6th for a second because you run out of room, then at the end of the straightaway turn around and go WOT back to the starting point. That is what I have done when I didn't have a long enough straightaway. If you have a loooooong hill climb that you can go WOT for several seconds but can only get to the top of 4th gear that would work too. You just have to have a big load on the motor and be WOT for several seconds. If yours looks richer than pipebomb than your probably too rich.

I can't help you with kehins but 2 other things you can check to eliminate. The needles will not affect your top end performance at WOT, only your main jet, unless your needle is way to rich or lean so that it runs crappy at part throttle. Then it takes a few seconds at WOT to clear out extra fuel or get the feul richened up make up for running too lean. Put in new spark plugs. A spark plug can still look ok but be warn out and create a miss on top. Also check to make sure the air gap on the coil is set at .020". Any more than .030 and it will start to get a miss on top and loose some power.

Being that you are 5000' elev, I'd probably go with 32.5 pilots, P-6 dump tubes, and about a 320 main and see how she runs and try out a couple needle clip settings, start at the middle clip. Heres some info on the dump tubes and sizes. Sudco - needle jet orafice You can get the dump tubes at either of these two places: http://www.sudco.com http://www.pro-flo.com/

Pipes, filter, timing advance plate

Typically the expansion chambers have to go with the silencers made by the same company. They are not interchangeable. The bends, angles, and the exact location where the expansion chamber meets the stinger will be different. I do believe I have seen a couple FMF silencers on Toomey pipes but I think some slight modification was needed. A particular expansion chamber has the silencer and stinger tube diameter and length tuned to complement the expansion chamber as well.

If you were going to run a bone stock banshee at say 50F degrees then I would say you could get away with it, but if you are talking below 30 deg F or near 0 deg F then you would need to go up on the main at least 2 sizes. Once you jet it once you can do it again and you get much faster the more you do it. If you are not mechanically inclined, have someone show you how do remove the carbs and change the jet the first time, it helps. Plug heat range wont effect how a banshee runs due to cold air, you go WOT and it will get up to proper operating temp no problem.

Sounds like you've more or less solved your problem. It would still probably start better yet with a larger pilot if you're still running the stock 25's. FYI, Pulling the choke out while WOT aka "the choke trick" never did squat in helping me determine anything.

You cant simply "jet" for more performance. If you install mods that increase the engines air flow potential like pipes, K&N filter, remove the air box lid, ported cylinders ect, then you can install larger jets so your carbs can flow more fuel to go with the added air flow that resulted from the mods. More air + more fuel = more power If you just add more fuel and not more air = less power + fouled plugs + bogs and runs crappy

When you install the the richer pilot (27.5 air screw 1 to 1.5 tunrs out) that will make it easy to start, you also need to run a 310 main with a K&N filter/ air box lid off. 270 is way to lean. I used to run a 290 with a foam filter/lid off and FMF's.

You can not be rich on the pilot jet circuit with stock pilots and FMF's. You should go to #30's even with the airbox lid on/snorkel removed with Fatties or at least 27.5's If your choke tube is in place and everything is as it should be except for the stock pilots, try turning your air screws almost all the way in, about 1/4 turn out and see if that helps, it should at least get you by for now.

Welcome to the dark side! sredish has you hooked up with about the best jetting advice your going to get. Maybe bump up the main size a couple sizes over his reccomended sizes if you find the cylinders are ported. If you pull the carb and the reed cage and look into the neck of the cylinder you'll be able to tell if it is ported. Hard to start sounds like lean pilots as my first guess.

Yes, definitely go up on the mains. Probably 310's for over 60 deg or 320's for less than 60 deg.

You are running way to lean on the mains. Don't run it this way untill you rejet. It would't hurt to try 260 mains to start (better richer than leaner) but you'll probably be closer with 240's and turn your air screws to 1.0 turn out.

Ha Ha Ha, I had a hell of a time figuring out these carbs at first too. I got luckey and got some decent advice on the selection of the correct needle jet orafice for these carbs to run on a banshee. I think the way these carbs come out of the box they are supposed to be for a RM 250 or something but they are way off for a banshee. If he bought those carbs new they come with a Q-2 (2 steps richer than P-8) needle jet orafice wich is waaay to rich. It will run crappy on anything more than 1/8th throttle. You can never get the main dialed in because there is soo much fuel in the jugs/crank from part throttle needle jet circuit that you can almost never get it cleared out to get a decent plug read on the mains. Some people are more familiar with refering to the needle jet orafice as the "dump tubes". On Kehins you change the needle to go richer/leaner, on Mikunis you change the dump tube. On my +4mm cub motor with rocket pipes (very similar to CPI jetting) I run a P-8 needle jet orafice and my needle on the top clip (leanest position), with my previous +4 stroker I ran the needle on the second clip from the top. I'd say most motors would probably run on a P-6 (= one step leaner than P-8) or P-8. There are only a couple of needle selections (different tapers) unlike Kehins but the ones that come new in the TM Mikunis I think will work fine for most banshee applications. I run 35 pilots (air screws 1.5 tunrs out) and 360 mains on my cub motor ( a little on the rich side). My previous +4 stroker (dune port with tripple exhaust port) ran on 35 pilots and 310 mains and I had this setup dyno tuned with the 02 sensor hooked up and it was right on the money for warmer weather, a hair lean for below 60 deg. In my experience you can roughly ball park figure out what your settings would be on stock carbs and subtract 4 sizes from the main and add 2 sizes to the pilot to get the corresponding sizes on the TM 34 Mikuni's. Anyway, my recommendation would be try 32.5 or 35 pilots air screws 1.5 turns out, P-6 needle jet orafice with the needle on the middle clip or my settings; P-8 needle jet orafice w/clip on the top or second to the top clip and a 330 main. There's now way you could be as low as a 250 main with a drag port and CPI's from my experience (wich may not be worth a hole heck of a lot) with these carbs and the setup you mentioned. This should at least get you pointed in the right direction.

It should have been fine with those jetting settings. The difference in 32:1 and 40:1 should have barely been noticeable if any. Did you try putting a new set of plugs in? I might try putting the needle on the middle clip (one psoition leaner) try turning your airscrews to 2.5 turns out (about as lean as you can get with the 30 piliots) and see if it gets any better. 310 main should be good for T5's and pod filters. You might have some junk in your carb bowls. It kinds reminds me of how my shee was acting when I had a little flake of crud in the carb bowl. It would plug the main and cause that cylinder to bog and the other would then bog too. Went to change the mains and found the flake of crud and it ran fine after that. It was the worst when I was WOT going up hills it would be fine untill the flake sucked up aginst the main then it would be like crap untill you stopped and the bowl would fill with fuel the flake would fall off the main and it would run fine untill after a few seconds of WOT the next time. It was very wierd and intermittent.