Ducman

So sad. He was so incredibly entusiatic about showing his love and excitement for wildlife to the rest of the world. Ironically this accident is like a race car driver getting killed in a airplane crash.

You could get the stock head shaved/milled .030" to add some compression and get the flywheel lightened. This would only cost about $100 in machine work labor + shipping parts. You could still run pump fuel and your motor would feel way snappier, quicker revving.

Before you go the helicoil route you may want to just do what I did. I just went through this a couple of weeks ago. I got a 14mm +1 oversize self tapping drain plug. Cost $3.99 at a Franklin auto parts and they had it in stock. A little grease in the flutted part of the plug to catch the shavings, wich there were very little, and little flush and clean up, and done. Very easy and worked like a charm. Took all of 10 minutes and the new drain plug works great.

Check you local petrolium dealers, speed shops, and motorcycle shops. I'ts been a few monthes since I bought any race fuel but it was around $5.00 for 100 unleaded and $5.70 for 110 leaded last time at a local petrolium dealer and it was 76 brand.

Its the opposite of what your friend said. Too much octane is fine, just a waste of money unless you like the beautiful fragrance of race fuel, not enough octane and it will destroy your pistons. With your compression you should be running a bit more than 93 octane. A 50/50 mix of 110 race fuel and 93 pump fuel will get you 101.5 octane which should be plenty for 170 psi.

Boy, you sure do know how to make friends dont ya. Yes, I do change my oil now. This happened over 10 years ago.

My buddy e-mailed me this. Happened to me. Won't go there ever again. > > NBC Station got screwed 5 out of 9 times. Apparently > the scheme goes far up to at least District Manager > level. Even the Corporation declined the invitation > to explain. Jiffy Lube gets investigated by NBC4 TV This is what I wrote back to my friend: Joe, Well, your probably better off if they dont actually do the work anyway. They talked me into changing the tranny fluid in my ranger in 1994, the truck was barely 2 years old. They overfilled my manual transmission at 40K miles in my ranger and caused it to blow out an upper seal. I new this because it had puked fluid all over my driveway and the mechanics parking lot but was at the full mark when the mechanic checked the fluid level. Jiffy lube basically said get F-ed. It cost me $450 dollars, several trips to the mechanic, and several days of down time. Worst of all, one of the guys working on my truck was a guy I new from highschool and he was a total and complete idiot. Guess I should have known better! Needless to say I don't go to jiffy lube anymore. Jiffy Lube sucks!

I also forgot to mention that I weigh 270 so shee has to work prety hard just to get my ass moving. I ran it around again yesterday, 101 degrees F out side, and I tried to cool it down inbetween runs and it did OK, still pushed about 1+ cups of fluid into the overflow and was pretty hot, but far from the point where I would be worried about cooking the motor. No temp guage, whish I had one now. I'm thinking cooler air temps, say 80 deg or less would probably make the stock cooling system work OK and keep the coolant temp under controll, but I think I should start shopping for a larger radiator anyway just to be safe. I geared it to 13/40 with 21" rear tires and went the fastest is ever been in 6th gear, I swear it felt like 80mph in the creek bottom. I might have to put the 14T front back on just to taste 90mph. This thing is a lot of fun. Its hard to believe how much different it is now compared to just a few years ago when it was bone stock.

What it would effectively do is lower the port height on all your ports by 5mm. This would be quite a bit off. If you had a full drag port on the cylinders it would still have port timing like an MX woods port. I think it would be possible to build a potent motor this way but chances are this if it is done this way that it is not done right. If it has a +4 stroke crank with stock length rods (like vitos +4 stroke crank) then it would almost be just like a wiseco hot rod +4mm stroke +5mm long rod with 795 series pistons. Maybe that is what he has and he just thinks that it is a hot rod +4 long rod crank.

If your running on the stock head that hasn't been "shaved" (milled .030) then +4 is no problem on 91 octane. Octane booster does boost octane, the octane of the liquid itself is around 116, the problem is that even if you add a whole bottle to say 2 gallons your still only going to get 92 octane at best because you are diluting it into so much fuel. It is much cheaper to buy race fuel with a higher octane and you get a lot more. PS, you dont always hear detontation, dont ask me how I know. :baseball_wibble:

Vitos $60 per side

I'm pretty luckey but only in the late summer and fall when the water in the creek is low. Yes, I tried straight water is way worse than running engine ice. I used straight water at the dunes (first trip anywhere with the cub) because I lost too much engine ice out of the system and didn't have anymore to put in. I've been thinking that part of my problem is that when I do the WOT 6th gear tests that I have to slam on the breaks when I run out of room and that it isn't giving it enough time to flow some air through the radiator at speed to cool it off. The more I think about it the more I think the problem may just be self induced. I'll have to go out and ride it like a 1/2 way sane person would and see how it does.

It's an 04 and the radiator is still in very good condition. The fluid is circulating correctly. So everybody is saying that they can do at least 4 back to back WOT blasts from a stop to the top of 6th gear and hold it a couple seconds each time in 6th (say 1/8 mile+) 100 deg F and it wont overheat at all on the stock radiator? I'm not trying to sound sarcastic. I used to be able to do this with my old 4mil motor. It was like as long as the R's were high (therefore lots of circulation) and my speed was fast (losts of air moving throught the rad) it would almost never over heat. It seams like I'm not going to be able to do this on the cub. But then again I'm almost never going to run it back and forth WOT like I describe at the dunes in 100 deg heat, just on my test/drag strip which is the creek bed, made of loose gravel, near my house.

Just wondering if others with cheetah cubs are getting away with running them using the stock radiator or did you need to get a bigger aftermarket radiator. I can keep it in a normal operating temperature range as long as I dont "hot lap" it to much and I drive it around nicely for a bit after every banging up through the gears into a 6th gear WOT blast. But, If I turn around and run back to back WOT runs say 3 or 4 times it overheats. Just wondering if most people running cubs needed to go with a bigger radiator or did you just ride it smarter and make sure you give it a chance to cool down very often? I put a billet water pump impeller in it, run engine ice, and put my stock grill back on which I think flows more air than the blingy flame one I was using at first. I also jetted it a bit fatter on the mains than it needs to be to see if that would help it run cooler, it did, but only slightly. I used to be able to run the piss out of it with the dune ported stock cylinders +4mm stroker on a stock water pump and not wory about overheating. It is also near 100 degrees in NorCal every day now so its hard to get a realistic "typical conditions" run which I normally run it in air temps 80 degrees F or less. The high temp surely makes it overheat easier, but I had some issues in cold weather the first time out at the OR dunes too. The radiator doesn't seem to suck fluid back out of the overflow. It seams like it wants to push fluid out when it gets hot untill the level in the radiator is at the top of the fins/bottom of the radiator tank. This is enough fluid to fill the overflow about 1/2way up from empty and then it seems to stabilize and not push any more water out. I've had somwhat similar experiences with my banshee doing this before the cubs but it seems a little worse now. If I start out wiht the coolant overflow more than 1/2 full it will fill it up 100% and piss out a bunch of fluid. These cubs seem to put out a lot of heat along with the gobs of HP. Just curious what every one elses experiences were with keeping these bad boys cool.

It would cost a bit more but I would ship the whole motor to a builder, have the case port matched and the crank trued/welded while you were at it and let them tear down and rebuild the motor. Or if your on a tight budget, you could not get the crank trued and just take the cylinders off to get them ported and leave the motor in the frame. It would be a good idea to get the crank trued and welded through.

I went all over town, priced taps, drill bits, various drain plugs. I went to several autopart stores for self tapping drain plugs, with no luck. My last stop was at Franklin Auto Parts and the dude behind the counter said, Oh you just need a 14mm +1 oversize drain plug. $3.99 and they had it in stock. A little grease to catch the shavings, wich there were very little, and little flush and clean up, and done. Very easy and worked like a charm.

I should have searched first. There was some good advice in the thread below. I was thinking of drilling/tapping using grease to collect the chips or vacuuming and them flushing with diesel. Any other suggestions are welcom. stripped drain plug

The drain plug was in real tight and had sat for several monthes. It made a pretty big pop when it came loose and then wouldn't get very tight when I put it back in and just kept spinning. Came out with all the aluminum threads around the bolt. Whats the best fix for a stripped trany drain plug. I'm thinking I'll just buy a slightly bigger bolt, drill and tap. My friend said they make self tapping drain plugs but I think that may be more for automotive where the engine oil pan is thinner material and steal. It would be ideal if I could use an insert with the stock drain plug, but and insert kit would probably cost a lot more than the bigger bolt, drill and tap. Anyway, I figured I couldn't be the first to jack up the drain plug threads so I'd ask how others fixed it.

You should check out the 22x12x10 realtors. I found the realtors in the link below with a quick google search, not a very good picture but you can get the idea. realtors I run a set of 21x12x9 GBC mudsharks. They are a bit on the heavy side but I got a pair for $60 on sale and they fit my stock rims so I said what the hell. My cub motor will spin any tire in the dirt or gravel like mad anyway. I also run 13/41 gearing.

That little fitting in front of the swing arm pivot was a biotch to find, glad I finally tracked that little sucker down through, that would suck to get water and dirt into the gear box. Thanks Guys. Man the stock banshee has some retarded coolant hose/vent routing. I think next time I get a chance I'll do the shorter Loco gear box vent tube like in BennBB's pic and relocate the overflow to the front of the quad and clean up a bunch of long cluttery lines.

Thanks, I'll see if I can find that other vent near the swing arm.

The little vent tube that comes out of the clutch cover by the water pump goes into a "T". One end goes up by the radiator and dead ends along with the vent line from the coolant overflow. I dont know where the other end of the "T" connects. It has a little spring clamp to hold it onto a fitting but I cant figure out where it would connect. Any Ideas? I cant find anything in the Clymers that helps me out. I wont be able to check this thread tommarow afternoon (Tues), Thanks.

Look on the bottom of the jet, same suface the hole is bored through. It can be hard to read the #'s on old jets with a lot of tarnish.

You shouldn't use thread lock on the cylinder/head studs. Although I had an issue with the stock studs screwing too far into my cheetah cubs so you couldn't get the nut threaded all the way onto the stud even when torqued down. This is after torqueing in the studs at 5 Ft-lbs. I ended up using the 2 longer studs in front for all of the studs and this took care of the length issue although I had to use washers under the nuts due to ensure the nut didn't torque on the unthreaded middle part of the stud. Later when talking with david Noss he said that some people were using stock studs and red locktite to hold them where they needed to be to get the correct length, but that some shop started making custom studs to get the correct lenght for stock type heads. Anyway, it can be done but I'd only use thread lock on the studs if you had a good reason to, and hope that you never need to replace a stud, especially on threads in alluminum.

If there is a sequal hopefully its Bi-Back Mountain and not LOOSE ASS PASS!