banshee tuner

nacs has them for 14.95 but they don't have teeth.

The 450 will be slower out the hole but pull out in front when it hits 3rd but when you hit 5th it will all be yours out front.

Not to hard but the carbs are hard to cut a good thread in. Just take your time or get someone that is familiar with cutting and threading.

To answer your dome question lower compression will rev higher with less bottom end. The small domes gave you so much compression you probably had killer bottom end and that is why you lost top end. The ideal compression is around 155 to get good bottom and still rev.

Good luck with the parts selling it's good to see someone pass on the savings but I work at the stealership and can get parts at cost plus 10% and parts unlimited is still higher than magic racing and rocky mountain and probably ten others. The only parts I really save on is factory yamaha parts.

I have a set of stock rear hubs off of my 01 banshee, they are in great condition and they are painted blue which you will probably want to repaint to match your bike. Just send me a message if you are interested and make a reasonable offer. I decided to take them off and went to durablue hubs.

If you post a picture or tell us the actual name of the carb part me or probably 20 other people on this site could tell you what it actually does. As far as carb parts the banshee has the least parts of all the ones i have worked on, cause they only included what you need other than the tors.

I did my +4 with stock pipes and did not feel the difference. now i have pipes and a few other mods the advance helps. i spent 35 bucks on getting the head shaved and it made a big difference on bottom end.

I payed $25 at a local shop and had .025 taken off. I got it together and tried it about 10 minutes on 93 octane and second gear feels like it pulls twice as hard. I will get to try it out on cam 2 this weekend and see what it does in the rest of the gears and see the diference. I only had enough room for first and second around the yard.

Wiseco makes the vito's pistons. Plus the vito's pistons have the port windows cut out to match a midrange port.

They will shear off if you don't use a strap wrench around the flywheel and use an impact wrench. I have never saw one wear down. I have the vito's which was $25 and i beleive alba has one for $10 or $12. Or you can modify your timing plate for free.

People will look at you like you are crazy but if you rock the bike from side to side enough to bring the tires off the ground a few times it does something with the fuel in the bowls and it will start first or second kick. This might sound crazy but we do it to all types of yamahas and it works. It's an old dirt bike trick. my boss did it on a raptor 50 and I laughed. It works and it's free.

Yes it's a pretty small shop it belongs to one guy and he does small jobs only.

Could someone tell me again what to cut the shift star down with. I sent one to a small machine shop and he did not have anything that would cut it.

I have heard you can wipe them down with alcohol and get the oil from your skin off them but i don't beleive that one. The only way i know for sure is to jet really rich and not get the hole power gain of the pipe. That comes straight from the toomey website.

I like the way cam-2 smells and i just moved to a town that has it for 3.50 a gallon and i also hear that av fuel is cheap here to. The cam-2 does a great job and i am going to try av fuel. I will post back on the av results.

I run the d.i.d. x ring and love it. I have not had much luck with chain rollers and don't know anyone that has. My next step is a slider.

Check your float height and if that does not fix the problem the worst it could be is you need a new needle and seat which is under the float and controls the fuel coming in. It shuts off the fuel coming into the bowl when it fills up.

I GOT THE MOTION PRO KIT AND IT WAS AN EASY 1 HOUR JOB. I BELEIVE I GOT MINE FROM MAGIC RACING.

SOMETIMES IF THE CARBS ARE COLD THE SLIDES WILL STICK IN THE CARBS. YOU CAN TAP ON THE CARBS WITH A SCREWDRIVER AND IT WORKS SOMETIMES.A CHEAP THING IS TO BUY A CABLE LUBER AND USE SOME WD-40 AND THAT MIGHT ALSO HELP.

DONT TEAR YOUR BIKE APART OR SPEND ANY MONEY, THE CLUTCH WILL WORK FINE AS SOON AS THE OIL WARMS UP AND STARTS TO MOVE AROUND IN THE GEAR CASE. PUT THE BIKE IN NEUTRAL AND LET IT IDLE, ONCE IT WARMS UP THE CLUTCH WILL WORK FINE.

JUST SPEND THE MONEY AND GET THE D.I.D. X RING CHAIN. I BROKE MY STOCK CHAIN WITH PADDLE TIRES AND BONE STOCK SHEE. THE GOLD D.I.D. WILL LAST A LONG TIME UNLESS YOU LIKE CHANGING CHAINS AND SPROCKETS ALL OF THE TIME. RUNNING A STRETCHED CHAIN WILL EAT YOUR SPROCKETS.

THE BOOST BOTTLE IS MAINLY FOR LOOKS. I PUT MINE ON WHEN THE SHEE WAS STOCK,IT HAD BETTER THROTTLE RESPONSE. WITH PIPES AND MODS IT MAKES MY SHEE REV OUT MORE ON TOP. I LISTENED TO THE GUYS ON THE H.Q. AND TOOK THE BOTTLE OFF. NOW I HAVE THE BALANCE PIPE BACK ON AND I HAVE BETTER BOTTOM END, ISN'T THAT WHAT WERE ALL LOOKING FOR.

If your sticking with the stock crank get vito's pistons. If you want t5s and bottom end get a mid range or trail port.

Im running 15-41 gearing, what gear are you running with -2 swingarm