camatv

if your not budgeting about 12 grand for this forget it.

its jsut amazing to me anymore.. at least chury is ripping around on his having a great time, dooin wheelies and livin life..

if you bring the head by my house i can see if the pd domes fit.

just buy mattons triple off of ebay. then you can cus it when it breaks like the rest of them. for a track motor i would never build one. unless you like stress and spending more than you ever thought trying to get it to work

yes its a good thread

big enough hammer i bet i t will

really? just use an H-2 like the rest. those work great.

what the hell i cannot even fit that one in my ebonics translater at all.

uggghh..

was going to use this on my yfz build but a PV cylinder has poped up and i'd like to build that instead. if the other cylinder sells i will pull this one. i need 850 shipped. its brand new never ran bought direct from ebay seller. still in box. i have a brand new set of 65mm wiseco's ready to go in it that will go too. will sell without the piston for 750. wont sell pistons seperate. no porting but its plated.

if after anyone has read any of the dyno sheets of any serval i have seen AND IS still considering runnig the old style "trail pipes " on one. i dont get it. i mean really a bolt on no porting serval with decent setup ( shears decent carbs decent domes) is going to get you in the 72-75 hp range. with some porting work and a lil bit of playing with it will be in the 80-85hp range. with a great curve and nice rideability. then you just need to get all that to shift right.. what else do you need to know?

in a rider or goof off bike i would never rip the motor out, and mic the entire crank "just cause" i dont have that kind of time if it was set up well when it was installed, and welded it should be fine for quite some time. unless yoru going to actually send one and a few other cranks to a metalurgist AND POST THE GRAPHED RESULTS. then what really does micing it after running for a period of time prove? it just shows what normal wear would be for that particular crank in those particular motor set ups with that particular rider/ owners maintenance schedule. how can i get a crank in thats from a motor i have no control over how its ran if its dead revved to the freakin moon or if its putted in the trail by an old fart like me OR if its ran on varying mix ratios and the big filters fell off and the motor ate sand for a half hour.. as i've stated above. hotrods, OR tdr fordged. fuck billet cranks. if you really care about your build a 550- 700 dolla crank wont be much in the overall budget of the motor

im not sure of the year but if its newer and has a parking brake the park brake limiter may have screwed up. unhook that piece of shit

whats bad is all those retarded conversion end up at the dunes.. those beadlocks on the back are really necessary! that one in the pic was only one of many i have seen out there. they were al nearly crap only one i'd ever even liked were to 2 turbo'd ones and the ds650 busa modded one. at least those were respectable.

is that what a super scooper looks like?

you have asked the question that everyone trys to do. combine a drag bike and a SXS and a farm tractor into one machine.. it wont happen your asking how to make a corvette into a mud truck and a soccer mini van. there are reasons differnt items exist if you want a just fun rideable banshee. build a well built 350 - 400cc ( about 2500+) build a nice frame around it including decent shocks, a-arms, swingarm with round carrier and a +4 axle. ( about 1000-2500+) then you will have a decent all around bike. OR get on craigslist and buy one locally that has nice frame stuff for about 2k. then rebuild the motor to your liking.

shift shafts and their related parts are what i consider high wear items. the alignment pin i swear is made of like grade 3 material. and the spring on the end of the shaft is about as puny as they get. these need replaced due to wear about every 2 years or so if you have never replaced them they are shot. they are relatively low cost parts. theier maybe a new hardened pin coming out soon and possibly a redesigned shift shaft end. ( HINT HINT)

i like tygon but i dont think its the best. might try some of that RC stuff. after about a year or so the tygon gets hard and brittle. i get the stuff at o'reilly's by the time you pay for sipping from most places it gets really exspensive. local is the way to go

ok then what bike was that?? they showed for the HQ deal just came ill equiped and i personally dont think they were quite ready BUT it did rain saturday and that started allt he speculation on the he said she said.. both pipes run well i personally feel both pipes have their place.. and i mean really how can you compare the 2?? shear's have been around for a very long time he has years of testing under his belt and tweaking and it shows in the performance of the pipe. matt definatley has his shit together.. this comes from testing nad development. do you think his first pipe design was the best he's ever had?? the snipers havent hardly even been around for a year and it has been said over and over how they perform and peep's with shears or another drag pipe probably WONT sell them just to try somethign new out that has little to no real time in the "sand" to me there STILL hasnt been a definative "dyno day" with any of these pipes. i have only seen a decent run with cpi's vs shears.. in all reality do i really care. no. i dont have a set of these pipes either. id love to run a set on the wife's bike but her CPI's triple plated chrome sure looks nice.

my 485 on alky with 41/44 lectrons and a +6 was nearly impossible to ride in the trails.. try richening up to a 42 pilot and then play with the needle if that dosent work well check out sudco's site and read the section on needle tapers and cuts and you may like to order a few differnt needles if you change needles you may have to start your jetting process all over again. but i wouldnt be afraid to play with needle size as its not really a common motor.. be carefull with top end temps as they can rip on top but lean down and run hotter dome temps. either an added PJ for a small amount of fuel enrichment at longer runs OR jet a tad richer on the main. keep playing with it you will get it figured out.

probably a bad flywheel. if the weights in the wheel are getting weak or cracked they wont produce enought juice till ya spin it up. OR it has a RZ street bike flywheel on it. they do the same thing,. also double check your pickup gap.

you said modded out.

your shit is fucked sell it and buy a brand new 700 raptor

there are.. with pwk's id start at 55 pilot and 180 main and work from there. bet your in the range of 40-48ish and 165-200 on the main.

ride it like you stole it.. warm up break in results in more frequent rebuilds.