camatv

i guess noone read my damn post huh??? JUST PUT THE FUCKING BANSHEE MOTOR IN THE YFZ FRAME!!!!!!!!!!!!! YES the travel is not AS important at the linkage leverage and the way the complete frame will react to the rear end. in my >>>>>>>>>>>>>>experienced opinion<<<<<<<<<<<<<< the yfz rear geo is far superior to the 250r OR anything the banshee can be made to work using existing banshee rear geo. YFZ 450 REAR IS CR500 STYLE SETUP

ill give you 550 for it.

i hear ya sleeper. it takes FOREVER to get everything ready seems like... i can always tell the junk shortcuts peeps take when i redo work. it amazes me at times. i think i have cleaned off 3-4 differnt types of sealer/rtv/silicone off cases in the past.. just blobbed right over the old stuff. WTF!

ok here is the real deal.. simply put. banshee motor in yfz chassis.. fully MX setup. check my build thread. take your time if you cannot fab at all contact me. i have had an outlaw ( the one lastnline has now) he is right the chassis takes abuse like nothing i had ever rode BUT its still banshee plastic/ seat combo. thats ok but i like to ride pretty aggressive at times and found myself up on the tank and the corners of the seat kept catching my legs in bad spots. thats where the yfz450 comes in.. that plastic, seat combo is MUCH more comfy for aggressive riding. if you dont like it you may have learned a lot of bad posture habits over the years. the mx setup yfz i have now will take all the abuse suspension wise the outlaw would handle and maybe a lil more. the rear end setup IS cr500 style. look at the cr5 and then look at the yfz450. i knew something looked super familiar with them when i was building it. ( i have a cr500 trike also using stock rear linkage, shock geo setup.) in my opinion if i was to do another MX raced one i would HIGHLY suggest and like to do a LTR based build... i think after looking at a few that there is more room in the front of that chassis to work the pipes into. and it has better seat/ plastic geo. you can really get way way low and up forward in turns.. cannot do that on a honda tanks too fat. i had a 450r based mx setup with crf450 modded 4 stroke for a while it was ok. but still didnt like how it rode through corners. this is my opinion based on having all of them.

i just spent i think 2 or 3 hours cleaning off spraypaint like that on a set of cases. getting it off all the bolts. trans parts overspray inside the cases., what a mess.. in the future paint before assembly if your going to do it..

bone stock bike with no mods.. 1800 to 2500 take to shop spend 14000 to 18000 to "build it the way you ( they) want.. purchase a bike with as many upgrades or search for one with pretty close to fresh build for 5000 thats high quality.. HMMMMMM ABE has a beautiful bike for sale for a good price considering.. and the "its to far" is a bull shit excuse i have shipped many bikes across the country. just dont deal with shady people and dont expect an absolutely brand new bike..

not sure why but i cannot get to your site.. says im a "fake google crawler

i have always said the turners suck.. slp same power but more when you want it. yea they drop off but when you shift them early and keep the power down low they rip. big gearing hels a lot also. i ran 15/40 on the trex. roll on no clutch wheelies in 4th from very low in the rpm were a breeze we ran 41/44's on the trex the cascade graph is nice!! its interesting its a 2-1 carb setup.

535 cheeta 6+years with no rebuild 485 cheeta now on its 5th season multiple 421 cubs that have ran into 3 years with no issues. its all in how they are built, tested, tuned after the build and the quality of the parts installed.

k+n

n beer

differnt base colors will effect the candy colors.

might have been a sleeve from some ktm. nothing in there looks all wacko or nutty. besides the weirdo crap in the intake flange area. if you do a top down measurement of the exh and transfer most can do a rod/ stroke combo comparison for piston, dome and cc setup.

if doing powder. try a candy purple over a white silver flake base. should lighten it way up. or a silver chrome or flake base

simple answer is all it needs..

triple coated. silverflake base, candy purple, silver purple flake blue tinted clear.

wow.... it would be nice if someone takes all those cascade pics and adds them to a " guide" on frame modifications. they sure were spot on. not just cut shit off but where to reinforce.. or just get with a "builder" ask them what to do then come to the ole interwebbs and ask questions you already have a qualified answer to then dispute the answers given by other interwebbs informants that may or may not conteract the "pro builder hotshot yo yo he da man" guy your going to use. then the ultimate!!! go to the same dude your going to pay money to and say that the stuff you read on the ole interwebbings was diff n't than the shit he wants you to pay fo yo and he is a dumb fuck ass monkey. and now that yo can read your now more than qualified to be da man yo yo thats what i do works every time hell yes fuck em all! been off my meds a few days........

sell the niche and get a good setup for the top end... get with someone who knows whats up and split the entiere bottom end. build from there. just what i would do.

good lord... mock the whole bike up. decide from there what you want to cut off, change, or modify. if your riding the bike and hitting whoops and some small jumps then you will need to leave some stuff in there. the JDS bracket location is THE way to mount the CDI... the wires can be ran correctly ( down the middle of the motor) and it hides everything very very nicely. if your choping things off and welding things up you should be able to make something similar very very easily. i used stainless strap just because its easy for me to get i'm sorry but that orange frame with the stock shit welded on the front is really cheesy looking UNLESS the plasic drop covers ALL of it.. go to CASCADE's site and look for banshee frame modifications. they have pictures of reinforcements and other changes and modifications that are very tastefull and realistic. if your wife dosent want to show off the goods just post random pics of who ever you like from the net HA

trinity pipe's responds really well to porting and dome changes. fmf and most other pipes respond ok but work well with mildly built motors. there are differnt series of the trinitys acording to age when they were built. i personally like the round silencer cnc milled caps style. they are also stainless steel pipes. they dont rust. they dont peel BUT if you hard mount them they will crack. just like any other pipe. trinitys really like 400 4 mils and 421 4 mills. the race fuel 421 i had running trinity made 78ish hp and 55 ft lbs of tq. it improved more but i never dyno'd it again. last setup was stock carbs on special domes with pump gas. bike was a blast to ride.

driveline is what i would run if your looking to save money, and still have a quality product. unless its a catastrophe the cylinders will take some abuse. millenium nicko is strong stuff if the cylinder being plated is quality alluminum. you will probably have more issues from your crankshaft and air leaks then properly maintained top end.

thats an old one for sure! check ebay.

check your swingarm piviot to sproket centerline.. motor might be to high.

either the cylinder has overheated or you tightened it up to much. timesert would be permanent. if your mech inclined you will find all kinds of uses for them they are much stronger but thicker than some like. you should have plenty of room to get one in there the thin wall. after its in you just need to make sure the cylinder is flat there.. before you do this put the head back on and tq every stud in the cylinders. after one starts if its an overheat issue others will follow. dont go more than 20ft lbs with a GOOD tq wrench. not that pile of shit they rent out at the parts store. and get a top end gasket set and pull it to do it. if it pulls more just take them off and toss them, get ahold of driveline and buy their top end kit..