camatv

your best bet is to start with a known good needle for banshee motors and jet from there. get the pilot and main to where its really good and then after moving needle up or down one clip it still has issues and EVERYTHING ELSE IS RIGHT look at a differnt needle. using needle alone when you can fix an issue with pilot or main is a little overkill. the banshee is a very jetted motor and pretty much any combo can be ran on just a few needles. gas/ or alky luckly your not installing a unknown carb on a never ran combo before. i have jetted a webber dcnf 40mm to a 750 twin from scratch thats a night mare.

send me a core....

F.A.S.T. builds motors too.

SNIPERS BEST PIPE FOR SERVALS DONE

i run easy to get red all the time on them it should be fine. you can also stake them from the other side if you want. but with the big bolts, mattoon plate converted you shouldnt have any problems

you cannot just swap a drum on an override to make it a stock backloadable trans. the override uses the angle cut dogs to actually shift. if they were left on and the drum swapped then back loaded it would destroy the trans in one good ride. bent or burned up shift forks would most likely result in gear clash and then gradual destruction of the gears them selves. it is possible to change a stock mod into an override ( most time.. i make sure mine are upgrade able) but to convert back requires a lot of parts swappin. it would be best to just have the trans in qusetion pulled. sent to someone who does transmission work. and either have it converted back or swapped as a core trans for an stock modified transmission. i have done this multiple times most every time the override was backloaded so hard it damaged the non cut gears and mostly had just ok to run shafts unless they were damaged also. no matter what the trans in my mind would need inspected before any kind of deal was made. a 1-4 dosent have the slider cut so sometimes its not to bad to convert back.

damn green you are such an asshole sometimes!! if chariot wants to make a billet mail box who gives a fuck! in this country he is free to pursue whatever he wants to the other products that chariot puts out i like as stated they come with everything to put them on whatever your doing with and thats nice they have fast shipping and great prices. their billet bowls i feel have features that really are needed that others dont have. the clutch basket is really really light and is anodized so should last a while. i know for a fact that if any flaws come up in the designs they are taken care of quickly or are fixed before they are released to the public. i'd like to put my 10mm in a set of billet cases. not that you care not2fastnemo4

i'm going to be running a set on my lil j-frame bike

if you cannot do 'wheelies" and jump stuff with t5's something is wrooooonnnnggggggg!!

i'm running 2-1 but am using 38mm pj carb. everything went so much better after going to the larger carb. i'd like to put on a single 41/44 lectron after i find one. i had a very specific needs with this particular bike and the 2-1 finally achieved those needs.

slp is not going to want to overrev to hard. not sure how that will show up on a "plug chop"

just wanted to say i got a set of these for a top end freshen up on a motor that had a set of cylinders on their last bore. instead of sleeving and re working the stock cylinders a set of these was cheaper in the long run after pistons and machine work etc etc. i did a very minimal amount of porting to them ( clean up really) and ran the bike on pump gas with 30mm pwk's its a lot of fun to ride and the install went with out any issues. motor makes great power. its probably never going to be dyno'd but these cylinders are an excellent stock upgrade replacement for the budget rider and have the potential to make big power in the hands of good porters plus you will start with a great proven cylinder setup. the build was a 421cc 68/ 4 mill crank

i'm guessing non lexan version clutch cover would be one piece? i have an old SFB all billet cover as well as a mattoon. your design i like a lot also! i will be intersted in a non lexan clutch side maybe lexan water pump cover version non polished. sooooooo how much longer till billet cases?

me too. BUT i would like a little more leverage and travel due to my big ass feet. i havent done it yet but i do have the shifter mech. going to set the pivot point behind the frame and run shifter up besides it should give me the "feel" of OEM ban if not no big deal rip it back off and know it dosent work!

just buy an 86 250r carb rebuild kit. put in new gaskets and seals and replace the needle and seats. dont use jets or needle

that gold is the SHIT IF your doing a throw back build.. or a lowrider theme style build. since you left the front fender supports on the frame i'd chrome a set of fender supports and run the full plastic. i'd LOVE to do a full chrome frame with gold accents very few of those were done in the 90's and to me they were bad ass. just my personal likes. ship that gold hardware to me! i'll put it all on my red j-arm bike!

the basket i got is very light weight. seems built very well has the big bolts nice thick steel backing plate and is hard anodized. i'm planning on installing it into a long term motor and will put it through some abuse. but overall i'd suggest and plan to suggest these as #1 pick for the time being until something if anything shows up negative about them. another great product from Chariot !!

just a thought. i have ran out frame on dunners many times. no jumping, just wheelies and general goofing off on the bike. they a re fine if you plan on them being there. trail rode with them and tree shots. whats weird is i have had them fall off the bike completely run them over and they have no d3ents or anything. ride out there and fart in their general direction and a nice big ding shows up.. BUT i'm not in oregon. if your a welded i'm sure you can fab up a set of big dia silencers for the bike. in or out frame.

any engien changes will need most likely a jetting change. in that case they the pistons rediesign is deffinatley doing something. if the motor is now lean and passed a leak test the new design pistons are letting more mixture in the motor.

funny you would mention that. while back i had a stock head and was seeing issues after a bore of possibly hitting the dome. i bolted the head to the cylinder and the hole was WAY off. i ended up machining the dia larger centric to the spark plug hole. what a mess.

the shifter thing is a bitch.. i'm going to try a raptor linkage style shifter to move the piviot point back some.

yes 0 stocker. +4 on most will be ok on pump gas depending on dome design. you can modify the stock plate to go up to 4 nothing wrong with a dyna problems peeps have had were results of running non resistor plugs. the dyna is digital and just like any dirtbike running digital ignition the electrical "noise" from the plug will fuck with it. and yes a rpm limiter is kinda nice. but not the way your thinking. more like in a launch control situation. with the programming capacity you can also run a lot of timing in the lower rpms then take it out as the bike rev's.

damn atv high AND risers talk about apehangers! if you want to run dmc pipes run dmc pipes if a "builder" cannot port to any pipe get a different "builder". not everyone wants a drag port,...

i can ride the bike way harder for a lot longer due to the overall design. and i'm an old fat fuck.

chariot heads are great, i also dont like how tight they fit. i used a drill bit that just barely fit the hole and kinda reamed them out on the ones i have installed. dont use a drill i just run them through by hand. then they slip down nicely. if your cylindrs studs are tweaked that can be a problem also. unlike some other products. if there is a design flaw chariot has always been quick to fix the issue and make an update. jerry is great to deal with !