camatv

the PV cheeto can and will make more powa and broader than a serval. internally they are nearly identical. the PV will allow low end AND big time overrev. SO many times i have seen cheeta's set up completely different with known bad combo's instead of using what was learned from the cub's setback and hold up's weird port timing layouts and retarded dome setups.. if you built 2 same stroke same cc cheeta/ serval and did everything the same internally the pv motor would dominate

the ones i have seen available are not the same as other dirtbike/ atv style. they are the bearing shoved on the end of kicker gear.. i have a setup i did that uses 2 bushings and the bearing but it lets the bearing actually rotate like it should. involved machining the gears down some

its probably in a barn somewhere forgoten about. soon to be stolen then sold on craigs list as " racing atv" for 1500 bucks.

wonder what ever happened..

old j-arm bike!

ask him about his funky finger..

i might be looking for another 10mm crank soon.

10 mill trex fresh top end drag ported pv installed and working like they should. TDR 10 mill forged crank about 5 seasons on it. good shape inspected 1-5 override lockup, lockup cover tz bearings on crank new wiseco pistons boyesen reeds no electrics might have a clutch cover.? 3500 plus ship plus fees cases in good shape. it isnt assembled yet just got cylinder back from bore. 535cc 64x 73bore

that looks like forged crank yo

send me those ugly voltureicks?

its a good one!!

same reason you take kick starter off less weight!!

they have a ton of room for "real" porting work also. same setup and some work inside i bet a 8-15hp increase would be easily obtainable. and this type of motor is what they are perfect for budget rebuild cause you just want to fucking ride already!!!!! and then again some work inside they should perform very strongly!

light something on fire. put a ramp up it jd will jump that shit. overheating, air leaks, broken pegs, dont matta!! its getting sky'd out!

gt's chassis work is really neat. i rember seeing a few of the stock frames they did and they are nice setups.

i will have a couple sets of smaller rider style scat trac paddles that i will be selling. all used of course.

heyy they all say its will be done in 2 weeks right??

jd is right.. build the motor strong and with the right parts you shouldn't develop an air leak maybe after the motor is a few years old like 3 and things have started to really deteriorate. back when i was running my egt i noticed a big change in temps and shut the bike down thats when the crank webb broke and the crank end was wobblinin and took out the stator side seal.. there are all kinds of shit parts out there tight now gaskets that are trash crank seals that are junk and some assembly procedures that are goofy let alone sub par cranks, clutch baskets ( exploding backing plate bolts go right through crank seals it seems every time), junk pistons and bad setups involving piston to head clearances that are way the hell off for prolonged running....

stellar, fireball, metaltech, plus others all make nice j-arm setups. they are just not as available used. thats the biggest difference from j - a-arm front brakes and front spindles are different if its the early setup also. front brake lines are specific to those early big brake setups the flywheel is not as powerful for lighting, wire harness plugs are different, petcock lever is smaller older ones had glas light bulbs some had chrome rings for the headlights also. rear swingarm/ carrier mounting and rear axle sproket hub are differnt also. on early some of that was changed 89-90 i cannto rember what year but one had 10" rear wheels and the 4/143 bolt pattern ( big ass hubs)

sometimes you can find nice stuff at pawn shops also. BUT have to look at that stuff very carefully and not pay way to damn much for it. they seem to think sometimes that its worth buckets of cash... purchased a few very very nice starret tools at a few in larger city's along with some nice tooling holders at some salvage places.. i'm no machinist but it sure is fun so far. ! lots and lots of reading and just practicing on small stuff i needed. i made a lot of t nuts one night for a rotary table yea i know they are cheap but it was great practice

i was just stating this to the dude who started the thread and to clear up some bad information stated by someone else.

on alky been as high as 1250 but didnt notice much power increase i personally like stuff to last instead of exploded looking for that last .5hp i like to ride.

for most anything you would do with a banshee the cheapo digital will be fine. your not building from scratch anything and needing it to be within .00001 tolerance and then selling the parts for hundreds of thousands of dollaz.. all you need to do is measure rough bore sizes,, maybe carb throat sizes, and squish clearance. a decent quality inside bore mic would be good for piston to wall clearance. and outside mic those can be just analog. untill you get into crank rebuilds and checking clearances on gear shafts and out of round stuff as stated in that clymers you will be just fine. if your venturing down that road better get some $ together. for most any normal work your going to do that basic shit will be just fine. one of your better tools probably not stated in there is a leak down tester and a synch tool. i use those more than anything mostly

those fronts are just works steelers with powdercoated springs. not adjustable ressy.

because you shouldnt be sitting at 1300 d if on gas for 100% of the time egt can show problems starting before they result in catastrophic fail. when i first started on the drag motors i shoot for 1100 on alky and can slow the bike some with less. lets me know i have a smidge of wiggle room if i need it. those were 350-400+ ft runs. i dont run one much anymore but last time i did for other reasons i noticed the motor was off side to side at lower rpm's i was able to make a needle change on that one side and even the temps out ( lectrons)