camatv

do you have an engine right now?? i do rebuilds with GOOD parts ( not that china crap) for around 1100-1300 thats send me a blown motor with useable parts i rebuild and send back..

the trinity pipes ran the same as the cpi's? hmm the rdz pipe ( HIS pipe) deff has a WOOOSH feeling on the top end.

call cpi

huh?? i personally just like the way hand coned pipes look. shear hand coned pipes are pretty sweet running pipes. but to me its more of a "looks" thing .. differnt people build differnt style pipes. i'd say it just depends on who actually built them and of course if they were built for your style motor..

wow all this from a chrome question.. wow.. i got a set of hand coned shear big bore chrome for 550... about 2002ish i think?? it was right after the 535's were getting popular

sounds like every day to me.. get a "back up " bike. that solves a lot of problems ha ha i have about 6

most sand blasters need about a 60 gallon or more compressor... if your blasting outside and on a budget get one of those pressureized pot blasters they are a lot better after you get them set. you can even make one out of an old propane tank.

i like you tube. its fun and informative. there are a TON of video's on machining and using metal lathe's. i have literally watched and then practiced about 25+ hours of video's off of youtube.... those have helped me a lot in a short time to get better with my little lathe... i'm in no way shape or form a "machinist" but i can do the things i need to do. also a LOT of great video's about welding and using welders for differnt things. ( check out welding tips and tricks .com) he uses youtube for posting video's.... pipes do really neato things in all reality... but thats a whole nother thread. and i'm sure if we actually got to talk about that concept there would be a ton of bullshit involved in that also.

thats where the meth injection port is right? pasi not bad at all... i would have widene'd the exhaust to 75% and ran the roof of the intake up flush with the top. more of an angle into the port.. also the outside trans tunnel entrance i'd open up and make more of a funnel effect up in to the trans port... THEN open the exhaust port tunnel up a lot and match to the opening of the exhaust.. t-5's will handle way more exhaust duration then that. phhhh BUT for a starter port its a decent start pasi does great work! BUT he was willing to put in the time. and had a few great teachers..

my modded stocker will shift full throttle.. never let off. believe me they are not all the same....

where are the pics/ vids?

i didn't read all the posts seriously just cause its black dosent make it a sleeper.. a real sleeper you cannot tell anything is done and at the most it has some shitty fmf's on it..... if you want different go bare. and keep them clean. to me its a bad ass industrial look. and black pipes to me just look cheap..

if its built right. fire it up. check EVERYTHING coolant leaks, jetting etc. warm it up idle-ride around a tad THEN run it full throttle through every gear down a road. do that about 5 times recheck everything. seats the rings hard and they end up with way less blow by. motors also seem to last a lot longer... just what i do. my PERSONAL experience i started doing this years ago. old motors lasted about 1 season and seemed to loose compression. after taking apart it would be evident there was a lot of blow by around the piston rings. after doing the hard break ins the top ends would seem to last about 3 years and much less blow by. usually lost compression because rings themselves were just to damn thin. of course this is after i KNEW the piston wall clearance was proper and everythign else was working just fine.

with a spring compressor.. i built the one i use. its on a little stand. for powdercoating springs

a modified stocker is not useable? if not just get one from redline.

keep 1st.. i personally dont like "duneable" overrides but if i decided to get one of those shift fork eating transmissions i'd go with cam at redline..

coatings are nice... i'm not sure why you would run a "tight motor" sounds like a shady bore job to me...

if the 10 mill is "better quality" i'd consider it on a build i'm doing..

i dont know if they fit with a lockup i dont know why they wouldnt?

hmm why not? i have a stocker 421 motor i think its a blast to ride...

you wont find a complete "kit" including EVERYTHING your going to need. maybe a crank, gaskets, cyl, and pistons kit. but not one including trans mods, billet basket, bigger bearings for crank, case mods, and reeds, carbs, filters pipes etc etc etc... not to say that any of the above couldnt get all that for you and send it in a package. but your going to most likely have to call them

are we really talking about 4 strokes here?? vs racing a banshee... here is my humble opinion.. trails a 700 raptor NOT 660!!! is a great machine. if you like to just put around. but then again so is a golf cart..... the 250r is a fun hobby bike. its extremely outdated and in my opinion an antique design that is nearly impossible to get some trans parts for including cases. ( unless you dont mind spending big bucks) as far as MX racing any of the top current 4 stroke atv's would pound the 250r into the ground. the suzuki 450 alone has WAY better ergo's and the motors are so smooth that even box stock i'd rather race one than a comparable 250r.. current 450's box stock race version is even much better. plus easy to get parts for.. the bombardier 450 is a bad ass as far as design and tech goes. but in a "drag race" i'd always take a banshee over all of them.. to me personally its the king of the 2 strokes. of course this is my opinion..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_RZ350 info on the RZ a sweet street bike if i say so..

i didnt really read more than a few posts.. so this is just my opinion on this subject.. 'for the small cost of a new top end gasket set i'd split the entire motor.. i think i have wasted more time trying to realign the dang shift forks than it would have taken to pop the top end off.. for as clean as i like motors to be it also was nerve racking to do it without removing the top end. i have done it 2 times and i'll never do it that way again. while your in there you should send me that transmission so i can modify it for you! ok so i read some more of the "post's... umm the rz is a banshee BASED motor or rather the banshee engine IS based off the rz... the rz just has these majic thangy's called powervalves. it makes them much smoother and makes higher hp levels much easier to get and still have a motor you can "ride" the rz featured a tach in the top of the case, and an oil injection system, it also has a different flywheel and stator setup to run with a battery. and completely differnt top end, cyls and head are different than banshee.. the pusher should have fit with both washers in there. if the pusher is aluminum there is a very good chance the bearing will work its way into the soft alluminum and seize now.. thats what the 'washers" are there for.. there are a few different lengths of pushers some are extended to allow easier adjustments through a lockup clutch. others are shorter to work with stock covers and stock components . unless your clutch was really worn out it may have been bottoming due to that? if you have a manual you should measure the clutch fibers AND the steels. its not NORMAL for your clutch to be "grabby". unless its worn out or the basket, boss, and pressure plate are worn.. fibers are usually 3mm thick and i THINK steels run about 1.25? or 1.5mm thick. also need to check for warpage on the steels also. if the motor was "rebuilt" all that should have been checked when that was done.. at least i check them.

that pic of the suzuki is old as hell! ha ha.. if there is any doubt of my porting "skills" i think my bike's performance speaks for itself.. hope brandon understands those power valved cyls.. hurry up and get that thing done. i'd love to watch you and tanner race!