camatv

ok so who still has 350cc stock cylinder bikes to run?? i'd be in on this race but would need a jockey. i'm 280+ lbs. id ride it myself if needed. also how "stock frame" is it really going to be? i've seen some Really modded stockers out there. might need to be a lil more specific on that. if modified stocker is allowed i got one ready to go. and also how much work is a stock cylinder allowed? if the sides are all welded up and huge plates on the exhaust is that ok? just gotta know for sure.. it seems everytime one of these happen there is always a bunch of whiny ass bitches.

the a/f ratio for e85 is differnet than for gas.. i dont know for sure or at what but.. i'd say deff get the dumps drilled, and get pj's in it. maybe even need 2 pj's in to supply enough i dont know on the massive failure of the plugs. only time i have seen that was from a huge lean out.. the deto rattles so hard so quick it shuts the gap. when they are close they deto and shake the plugs out and damage the motor. when i use alky i just watch the plugs. i have never dyno'd an alky bike with sniffers in it. in the past i used EGT's and then tuned with plug color and heat after that. the redline alcohol oil would have been fine. alcohol will do the same thing as far as keeping things clean most times if an alky motor is purged they will look brand new when you take them apart. i'm planning on running a carb.

um yea i was wondering what the "crack" is..... that might be a lil more than your thinking if the crank came apart? if its from the chain breaking and its not leaking oil screw it. screw pt mids. keep the pipes you have. get it ported, reeds, welded crank and trans modifications done you will have a fun lil bike. i have built a lot of these style bikes and they are great starter machines. then you can always do more later. depending on how stout you make the bottom end depends on what all you can do to the top end.

what oil are you mixing in the e85? is it staying mixed and not seperating? im wondering if the hit sucks the bowl dry then they resupply and bring the mix back>? if on a dyno you can run a line up from the drains and watch the fuel level. if its a dm it DEFF needs pj's.. they are notorious for needing a LOT of fuel. i'm suprised you didnt destroy the motor slamming the plugs like that.. oh also are you running a tighter plug gap? .18 works well.. i never really looked at if it was corrosive or not.. i ran it a few times on a 700raptor with injection i was playing with. it deff ran way cooler. i played with it on one of the alky bikes too but it just didnt make the HP i was wanting and since i have so many alky bikes i said screw it.. now i run either pump or alcohol NOW on a side note.. what fuel pump should i use in the automotive area?? and on carbs and ignition any idears there? i havent done a lot of looking but i want a motor with more comp for goofing on in the street. i'm going to run a thumpr cam and just want the comp to make it bark a lil. plus it smelling like corn should be fun. there is a COOP 15 mins from my house with e85 pumps. it comes from 25 miles away at the refinery they built a few years ago... and what color you think the flame throwers will belch ha ha

a modified transmission is best.. a good flywheel puller.. build a leak tester. new gaskets and seals. welded crankshaft.. billet basket good aftermarket clutch.. import grey blue locktight. new clutch lock washer and new detent pin washer. and a hot tank and or solvent tank. optional is a full set of allen bolts for the side covers. i prefer the OEM for top and bottom case. unless its some big motor.

spring if the weather is nice is usually good. bigger weekends if you have a bad ass drag bike and you want competition..

what do you mean?? if bansheefromhell PM'd me and said hey dude help me with this trans i'm sending it to you for repair i'd do it no problem... actually i have been working on an override off an on for about 2 years. i'm getting closer and closer to having a CNC setup with 4th axis to do the drums along with the angle cuts on the gears... i just dont have unlimited funds and seeing how this is really a "hobby" to me still welp.... there is a difference from welding a star to a drum and a welded neutral tip on a star.. i have been modifying existing overrides for a very long time. most look like total shit to me..

buncha peeps sapposed to be heading down from ks area?

first off i'd get a pj for that carb e85 and alky are very similar in what they want fuel delivery wise.. if you dont have it you need to make sure that you have enough fuel delivery capacity, drilled stock cap with no guts or billet cap possibly drilled as well. pingle and modified floats or larger float bowls. then i would bet you would need to drill out the dump tubes in those pwk's probably around a .100 to start. i'm not sure what needle is used in those carbs with alky but something similar is probably fine. to me really e85 is a waste of time in an atv, you ahve to treat it just like alky, purge, storage issues, and mileage is not all that much better. plus alky is cheaper. and well know how to tune and setup a banshee on any popular carb.. mikuni's pwk's or lectrons. lectrons and mikunis can be swapped back and forth from gas to alky realtively easily. lectrons usually only need a needle change to go back to gas if they are alky specific.. i would highly suggest using a set of those carbs if you really want to run e85. packard i believe has a needle for e85 figured out. it really sounds to me like the dump is too small and when you first hit the throttle there is not nearly enough initial fuel delivery. on a side note i have a 1950 ford 2 door coupe, i plan on rebuilding the 265 small block chevy thats in it and running e85 with some compression. should be fun!

the number one thing for a shee as far as maintenance is a brain.. LISTEN to the bike if its not running right, sounds weird or you have some gas thats been sitting around for 6 months mixxed thats not a good thing. stop the bike and figure out whats wrong and go from there. keep the filter CLEAN and change the bottom end oil often. also one of the better things to do as far as transmission life is shift through every gear everytime you ride. on your first ride. also keep everything adjusted right! clutch, throttle cables, etc. use 50/50 mix of antifreeze and use a good oil. 32-1 is a great mix ratio. and rember these motors just wear out. they are steel and alluminum in the older 2 stroke books they actually recomended tearing a motor completely down and redoing cranks every year YIKES so they are not bullet proof. if the motor was rebuilt by an experienced banshee mechanic, built to spec installed and tuned corectly you shouldnt need all those other tools. if every 6 months or so you want to check your synch, do a leak test, and check compression thats not a horrible idear. alo i agree with the credit card statement ha ha

whoa that all sonds pretty bad. time for a tear down and inspection. the gears MIGHT have scuffed and damaged the shaft and the gears themselves. if you tear the trans all the way down there will be burn marks on the shafts and on the gears. also in really bad instances the gears themselves will turn black from heat damage. most of the time if its that bad its from debris also.

i'd use a stock bushing. just something about steel on steel seems to not work all that great. but thats just me. and i'm probably totally wrong. but i just never see steel bushings in any other area used for rotation.. the end of the trans shaft you need to check and make SURE the circlip grove is complete and not chipped or broken off somewhere. i see this from time to time and its one of the reasons the circlip falls off. if you had that much debris in the bottom end for the love of god please just split it down and clean it all out. the gear wobblin didnt break the basket. the motor and asphault did it. if the gear wobbles a lot it can hit the rivets and other parts of the basket and that can cause the circlip to break off. the basket failure was all on its own. stock baskets blow up all the time. its actually very comon i dont understand why builders dont demand an upgraded basket, clutch, etc on ALL builds.. probably to keep from freaking out their customers.. i'd say matton. they have a very strong backing plate and excellent cusions. it would be very nice if they were hard anodized. 2nd to me is a hinson with mattoon backing plate and cusions. wiseco's suck! at least the ones i have seen. the bolts holding the backing plate on are total trash. had one last 30 minutes. most all other baskets are great for very low hp motors ( 65hp or less) higher hp motors need a stronger backing plate and better cusions. stock baskets use very hard backing plates and crappy baskets.. and even more crappy cast alluminum fingers. the the east coat basket warrantied against groving? or just breakage?

what the hell are ASR pipes?? in my opinion if your wife is riding a banshee paulturner mids are a good trail pipe. they suck ass.. but have decent bottom. bike will NEVER rev so she will probably never get in trouble... t-6 IF the motor is built right are killer "trail " pipes. Pc"s are a great all around pipe. BUT i have never had DMC's.

good lord. maybe its a long rod stroker 350cc crank too? seen LOTS of those around...

well try it again..

give us all some idears on what he enjoyed and lets help out.

rich on bottom ( i'm guessing) and pretty close on top. one on left is close. one on right may be a lil rich still gapped at .18 tho right? need to see better pic of ground strap. and you need to make sure your not fuel starving on top.

nice shape sat for a very long time in storage. nearly new tires are original and are at 95-100% tread... has brand new carb new battery and fresh plug, tune up. runs great. i will deliver within reason. we MAY even be driving out to cali in a few weeks so anywhere along the way from kansas? link to pics and info. https://post.craigslist.org/manage/3656085210

both are good pipes. cpi has a lil more low end but you cannot get to the plugs or your shutoff very good. but the fit an airbox. shear is a lil more on top but some dont like the way they fit they work best with no airbox or a majorly cut down stocker. either pipe should work just fine.

im selling our golf cart. i believe its a 75? harley davidson gas model. after i bought it i put in a complete new wiring harness, new starter/ alternator, new switch assembly. rebuilt the carberator, new fuel pump all new fuel lines, and fuel pickup tube. i t has new front tires and rear tires are in good shape. the loose air after a day or so i just aired them back up shouldnt be a bad fix. has lights and tail lights. i have a set of LED ones for the rear ( thanks spurdy) it has the original moonies hub caps. irecently recoverd the seats in furr and it has a chain steering wheel on it. i have a wood grant OR a black grant for it if you prefer. runs great never any problems. 2000.00 fits in the back of a full size pickup. i WILL DELIVER within hutchinson area farther if we figure out something just cover fuel costs and lunch i'll take it up to 5 hours away. this is the one we were cruizing around in at the HQ ride last 2 years. link to pics.. http://wichita.craigslist.org/rvs/3656071042.html if the link still works its still for sale.

the radiator in the yfz has to have a fan and a thermostat to work right. its also back behind all that chassis tubing and bullshit. im not sure. on the cooling. sounds like you may have some other issues./ id look at the plugs for jetting and make sure your not to high on timing. plugs will show that also. wow how far are those pipes sticking out the sides!!

just buy my outlaw.

sweet the 2 - 3 stage colors look way better. that blue is really sweet on top of a chrome base. if you hit it with a flake clear topcoat its even better ...

whoa did i hear cookies?? factorys start the bikes, atv's car,s whatever up and run them hard for just a few minutes. hmmm and they built the damn things.

ride it harder...