camatv

wow what an old post! i will say im looking for a 250 honda rad valve for a project im going to cut the necks off of them and do a special reed setup for my cheeta..

sent pm on 14's

pair of pwk's ran 2 trips to the dunes then sitting on the shelf. will have new lines and clean. came from sudco. 275 shipped firm.

they probably run pretty similar.. i'm trying to buy both sets!

i have a set of BRAND NEW 14 extremes. never hit the sand or dirt. where are you located. send me a pm.

so much suff to buy so little cash

sent pm.

anyone considering a serval should just buy this already. have a low end AND top end revver..

ok just my opinion.. for a rider on gas ditch the lockup. use a FAST clutch, or comparable OEm parts clutch setup. the trans will have to be cut. a stock modded will work fine. the reason i say ditch the l ockup is with a lot of weight on the arms your going to have a hell of a time pulling in the clutch at higher rpm's you have to overcome the lockups pressure and that can lead to broken clutch cables, bent actuator arms and other issues. make sure you have a bearing pusher in there also. as long as the exhaust isnt to wide the pv's will work just fine. even if it is to wide drop them in make sure they clear the piston and try them out. i bet you leave them in there. you should notice that you can just cruise in a higher gear and you wont have to really fan the clutch or get the motor up in rpms to get it to move. when right these make a ton of tq and great power spread. you will probably not notice that much of a differnce in the reed change IF the oem cages are reworked. depending on what year they are setup for they may have a decent set of stuffers in them it really depends on who built the motor or if it was just order'd and slapped together. the dome profile like was said is the biggest thing that gets messed up on these. a little work in the initial build will result in a much happier motor and a much happier rider... the shear big bore's will work great on this motor BUT the cpi's might be ok too. my only experience with the larger cheeta's and inframes was shear's and i was very happy with them. this is just my opinion but i have setup a few of these for general riding not just balls out drag racing. also just a thought. i dont see this much anymore from others but you need to look at your top case and most likely fill in the outer edges to provide the basegasket with plenty of sealing area. i do this on cubs also. i personally try to build these things with longevity in mind. built right they can run 4+ years with nothing but minimal maintenance

rappy is nice for a cruiser. if your a flat bill mx 110 lb dude the yfz might be better

yes. most those companies have that type of needle with minor mods its a necessity. the toomeys dont have anything on them for sure..

so it was a 10/ 75 bore... if it makes over the 120 on q16 what will alky yield i wonder? i guess i'm personally sick and tired of hearing that the cheeta is an "outdated design". to me the cub is an outdated desing that appeals to the masses. and markets well. take a 421 cub and vs a cheeta bet the nubmers on the cheeta can be higher. and i KNOW for a fact that with valves the cheeta can out accelerate a cub..

all i will say is if it was off 3 degree's that's too much.. think about how critical igniton timing is on gas motors. i spent a ton of time setting up a press fixture for the phasing part of it. if you dig enough you will find the tooling that some shops can buy. it involves some precision centering and press plates. i made one working off the outside of the webbing and the centerline of the pins. and also used a die style press setup. then made a jig that checks the phase from one side to the other using a special set of blocks i built and ground to exacting specs. i enjoy building jigs and tooling really.. but so far i think i have about 4 days in jig parts. the readily available crank tooling is about 1000 bucks. BUT it wont work on some banshee cranks due to them not having a centering pin setup.

8" padla brats 18 paddle stagg's ( if i rember right) these are NOT comp cut they are full tire still good for trails, and dunning.. yamaha pattern. 325 + ship

i have had these for a long time mostly they just sit in the attic. they are old carcass 14 haulers with kevlar reinfoced blades. these are triple buff ultralight tires. they are on rims. one time the lug nuts got loose and kinda egged them a tad i never notice it and just run small washers on them. there is one plug in them that was installed by the old guy at the pro tire shop you know the only one that knew what i needed.. i have ran these on my banshee and a NOS raptor. the edges are still sharp mostly and the tires overall are in great shape. i will try to weigh them today and take some pics.. 450 plus shipping.

i agree. part out the bike.. the 450's are killing these as far as price goes. BUT for whatever reason there ae a lot of peep's "building" their dram banshee. noone wants to buy a turn key they would rather spend 200-1000 at a time to buy parts. and DAMN 2600 for a 450r injected??? thats a really good price. i would rather mx one of those bone stock than most any banshee.

i sent a PM.

being hand built, straight stinger with no turns or anything.. and i dont know whats up with the heat wrap on them.. its going to be impossible to ID those.. they could be a number of pipes even home made..

you should have been around before 4 pokes, and only thing at the dunes was farmall's 250r's and banshee's i bet every weekend i went to the dunes i seen at least 4-5 people that were like this..

80.00

short rod 4 mill crank. 795 series piston no spacer plate. mock motor check squish clearance. check porting

sold

i need the 14's

here we go. short sleeve. 1 black with blue 3XLT 1 black with red 3XLT

welcome to the site. great company.