camatv

damn you have a bunch of stuff lying around! still sounds rich off idle a bit. keep leaning the needle down. bet it comes up on the pipe much cleaner

damn fart can bike anyways.l

the 10's that have to be "assembled" are the import webb's look at them they are black just like the wang cranks.. now i'm not saying there is anything wrong with the webb's i dont know i dont run them. i have a few sets of old as heck hot-rod 10 mill cranks that literaly have been rebuilt 1-3 times with new rods and the webbs are in great shape no problems.. the TDR 10 fordged i bought for 900 has hot rod rods on it and i reused the tz bearing from my old cw 10 that let go. they can be bought with larger bearings for not much more money. from what i understand these use webs that were cast a long time ago in a big bulk deal. the forgings are super strong. i have abused mine quite a bit. the crank m+m used was a wang also BUT it at the time had the fat rods on them with no markings and those seemed to hold up a lot better than the more stockish looking thin rods that are known to snap in half after about 5 mins of runtime... this is just my opinion so take for what its worth. if a motor is built to be strong and reliable and built using high quality parts you shouldnt have to worry about issues with crank webbs or sections failing and needing replaced.. good crank seals that dont fail ( yes a bunch of aftermarket ones fail like hot cakes hitting the fryng pan) strong clutch baskets with strong backing plates that dont break bolt heads off and send the pieces through the drive side seal causing a lean out and motor fail, shit webb sections that crack under normal stress due to being shit built, bad assembly practices that result in center case seal failures causing lean out and motor go by by, using those crappy ass intakes with the import shit boots that leak and the retarded "built in boost bottle" that also leaks like a mad man.. bad fuel delivery practices that result in bowl drain outs on runs resulting in lean out and deto motor go by by. shit carb setups that also result in weird lean out conditions. using shitty cheap o-rings in sealing sections of head resulting in o-ring failure and coolant bypass and lean out bye bye motor etc etc etc to me a shit ton of problems can be fixed or prevented even before the motor is assembled with a good motor package and tuning package..

there are other options. but i am surprised that they wont stamp one out or make a few runs for these bikes. not like nobody is buying them anymore. i think there is still somewhat of a demand. plus this year i have noticed a LOT more banshee's showing back up to the dunes and a lot less 450's probably due to the sxs explosion and the fact that most the 450's are blowed sky high anymore and no one wants to pay 1500-2500 to rebuild the motor..

hell i'd rock that bike all over the place. BRAAAOP

i dont have a clue what the spacer is for, maybe call k+t AND a+s and ask them about it? i'm taking it there are no markings or builders marks on the drum anywhere? i would look over the dogs on the gears and look for excessive backloading issues, and for all 3 gear cut ramps equal drag off engagement dogs ( indicated by marks on the ramps. if there is rubbing on only 1 or 2 you might have issues i see this a lot ) check shifter fork dog edges for wear( escpecially with springed forks) and check the drum over close for any damage from forks getting shoved out from backloads. check that all spinning gears on both gear sets spin nice and free and that they dont have a lot of slop or are chatering on the shafts. the largest gear closest to the sproket has a bushing/ bearing that likes to walk around when the gear gets hot it can rub up against the retainers and cause the shaft to spin off that gear drag causing shifting problems, clutch issues creeping etc. the 3 back to back gears on the same shaft will sometimes get hot and sieze to the shaft OR wear the hell out of the shaft causing them to chatter all over the place.. only real way to see that it take it completely apart and look for issues. a duneable wont necessarily make it a surviveable transmission from newbie riders. a std override that cut well and has full engagement on all 3 dogs can live a little better from minior OOPS BUT if you jam it in 3rd and backload it all the way down the track its going to get screwed up.. i have dealt with so called duneables a few times, most times they had crap shift forks and were jumping out of gear in no time at all. may have been a problem with the early designs i dont know all i know is when i look at them and realize that a spring is holding the shift forks ears right against a gear its going to cause heat to build up and going to trash a shift fork. its just the " duneable" i guess makes up for the huge amount of wear and holds them in gear better. i guess... just a few thoughts. maybe someone with more experience will chime in.

if its a 16 sub 4's -high 3's should be easy with proper setup

cause.

bad neutral setup. some sit on the edge of 1st gear and will jump. others have to have a spring to keep them out of gear but enough vibration and they will jump into gear. there is a way to keep this from happnening but requires a differnt cut on the drum. OR its actually a 1-5 n in stock location and is missing the spring.

also the reason i dont think superflows work well with smokers. they cannot ( at least as far as i know) simulate what the pipe is doing and the starting and stoping of flow from the up down from the piston movement...

on the r boyesen ports. take the air filter setup off the bike start it up and hold a piece of cardboard close to the carb watch how much fuel spray covers the back of the board.. what do you think happens around the reeds... if you think the fuel/ air flow is only coming through the motor in a constant one way path your not looking at it the right way.. it goes back and forth a lot on 2 smokes. the pipe helps control it a lot more than you think but not all the time

just a thought.. a larger case will increase overall lower end cc and lower lower end compression. this WILL widen the power band a lot more. that is the reason i would guess for the larger cases. also most of the jet's i have been around were case reed inducted. this leads to a certain power band normally. and most were broadened more with the addition of powervalves.. a larger case can lessen the pipes hit, and the pv will make the top end able to really make rpm and power a multi prop really hard. but still be very controllable to lessen the problems with cavitation.. just a thought. and all that ya hoo on the different transfers doing this and that the pressure drops significantly as the transfers open up. depending on the ratio and the cranking compression in the lower end. your thinking on aiming the boost ports and altering the paths to the transfers with them is what i did in a way.. only a lot different that what you had described in that huge post.. adn looking at different dirt bike cyls and some of the stuff done on 250r's also. i really think you should concentrate on an r motor if thats what you have access to. or at least try and dyno the differences your doing with the blaster motors. my limited time with blasters reveal just simply cleaning everything up and rebuilding the motor and truing the crank up nicely, and a decent tune on the carb made huge difference's in the way they ran. also being an air cooled as they heat up power drops off a lot. some of the things your thinking are happening are described in detail in most of the books i have also read.. you really need to loot for a few differnt 2 stroke tuning books. please just get some and read them already. the angles onthe tops of the transfers also control rpm powerband characaristics but not as much as i think they claim to in the books. most times i run a flat top transfer on a lower end rpm motor (9500 and down) but still have played with mixing them like the banshee oem cyls are done.

blame canada

the bolt on tops are way better than the screw on trust me. your reasoning is dead on with the gasket issue.. plus the room to install the pj makes it even better.. a 30mm would be great for the "rider" guys. i liked the 28mm bored to 30's a lot on my old trail bike.

yea i must have misunderstood you. i wa thining your wanting to creat a much bigger transfer tunnel and port thinking that alone is going to increase velocity. in one of the books i read they talk about the actual opening, tunnel, and transfer opeing size and what all that actually does. its pretty interesting, BUT with a spacer and a longer rod your lowering the cranking compression. its going to make the motor more lazy but if thats what you want then thats what you want. its an easy way to lessen a pipe hit. so is adding a reed spacer. adding a spacer AND more stroke can cause a cancelation of the added cc in the lower end. also adding more bore can increase the compressionin the lower end also. to me its one of the reasons some motor just work and others really struggle ( along with overall rotation weight and piston speed, stopping stresses, acceleration stresses) also the PIPE HAS to be a consideration. think about this. maybe you never had. the piston is at bdc. the pipe is still pulling an ever increasing vacuum on the insides of the motor whats happening??? to not consider this is just again thinking as each individual item at the same time. thinking about this effect after looking at pipe design and understanding exactilly what its actually doing made me come to the realization to move the charge from under the piston.. believe me nobody else or anywhere else have i read about these idears.. and noone has ever posted up pics of what i did to accomplish these therories ( ITS in my 350cc wife's bike motor..)

if you looked at how most "hot saw's motors are built you would make actual transfers in them also. its an atrocity in there. back in the 70's people were trying all kinds of wacko crazy motor designs and calling them the top shit.. google 60's racing karts. check out those pipe designs!

on this using faster speeds will overheat the carbide burr. the extra tq unless your using an alluminum carbide will result in usually an overheated burr also. i personally HATE the alluminum burrs unless i am doing top case matching and then i have to be really really carefull. i personally prefer the double cut " flame" shapes and then in the smaller sizes. also i use a lot of lube when doing work to keep the burr cooler and lubricated.. on led's site there is a bunch of pictures of a jigg they use to aid in porting time using a mill. im going to look into doing this and doing some experiments. i have also thought of milling the transfers completely off and then just filling in the outsides with weld. no jb weld but actual tig welded. dremel makes an adjustable speed motor in its higher end class for a beginner and an older cable extension ( good luck finding one) they are fine for begginer work. i have the foredom set up now and i dont necessarily think its a million times better.. sometimes the cable starts to twist and it results in some really wacko fluctuations in the tooling. the dremel being underpowerd never really did that. i prefer sanding drums on the dremel still. the 90 d tool that snappy makes is a great way to start on transfer work BUT its super picky and i'm sure your going to trash a lot of mini carbides getting it figured out. i have a 90 for the dremel also but sometimes its a bitch to conrol. the last set of cyls i did i figured out a way to cut the transfers up a lot with minimal time and not nearly as much stress on the tooling..

things like this are not necessarly true. and is really evedent in the larger single dirtbike motors. the pipes action on the cylinder also makes this kinda void. and in stroker motor where the case material is removed to allow the extra stroke your also adding cc to the motor. so case compression also changes. this is on thing in most of the older books that is not nearly an issue these days. back then cranks were all open and had no real sides to them now the cases had a shit ton more volume than what most all modern motors ( after say 1975?) have now. you can still do a crank stuff or a case stuff if you really think its necessary. the best thing to do is create volume AND velocity. there are ways to do this and its pretty interesting how.. also thinking the charge just hangs out under the piston maybe not so much. i have recently figured out a way to get the charge into the transfers much much quicker and nearly avoid being under the piston much at all... its really intersting what that does to the motor. there is a way to figure the fuel charges speed and its a lot faster than you think.. these types of things are what you will read about in most good books. not every one has the same conclusions in them so its best to read a lot and then think about the motor in an overall running condidtion not just a pipe or just the dome or just the angle of the transfers. for example i dont angle the transfers at the very back wall on all motors certain rpm's really like them almost pointed right at each other.. and without a dyno i dont think the absolute optimal can be just figured out in mathmatics..

ok i stopped on the 2nd page.. here is my recommendations to anyone that want to build a 2 stroke.. go to google OR ebay type in 2 stroke tuning. buy at LEAST 2-4 books on the subject and read. some of the best things i have learned about the subject is from these books. you will NEVER see these theories be able to decide for yourself what kind of porting, pipe, AND head/dome combo engine balancing pulse charge, lowerend compression, velocity porting port angles and aiming, port size and size limits can be. and i know i'll get it for this but the best on the subject i feel is not just gordon's book you have to know them they were amazed at that time to release a cyl, pipe, engine combo that made 5 hp over stock on that particular motor.. then start with a known motor and attempt to recreate all the types of power capacity's specific to that motor.. to do that will require a lot of tooling and a lot of practice.. and yea your going to get a lot of crap on this site..

yea its for sure as bad as those ones that are listed as cubs and are obviously stock cyls, let alone stating what kind of powerband is in them.. and that they do 100mph and beat my buddies mustang easily. or i run from the cops all the time on this, or even the it runs great just needs the carbs adjusted. or just needs a lil cleanin up. bla bla bla.. yea its worse then those.. i see the small mistakes but overall i dont think the bike is a pile of crap like you are claiming.. i see a pretty clean ridgid drag bike with a nice overall construction, maybe priced a lil high but hey if you want to track ride, and maybe he'd take 5k for it i'd do it. if i was in the market for one.. the point i'm seeing is some asshole who dosent even have a damn bike, trying to get people on this site that could care less about his asshole opnions, agree with maybe some guy who told that asshole to fuck off, has made a few listing mistakes.

thats an old school cooler rack.. i have one on my trike..

nice bike...

damn get a 1-5 or are you running a full 6 speed? launching in first helps a ton ( I FEEL)

tha would be saweet.. i heard the 450 owners really look for them. tell them its a "sneaky pete" set up no its not ported on the intake. the paint is just gone from being ran. the rest of that torrs shit just take it all off and cut the plugs off the harness. ride bike and do wheelies ..done..

looks like nicks add.. i dont really see the big deal its just a cub bike dosent look all that bad to me. not that i would buy it.