camatv

hmm.

what you mean i cannot let off in a power wheelie?

really depends on how you ride the bike? if you want low end grunt and no mid to top end pt's are a nice pipe they also fit way up in the frame and dont hinder you moving around.. for a cruiser trail bike i like the t6 with porting suited for the t6. they are bad ass low- mid pipe AND have a nice barky sound to them.. i have a set of slp's but have not ran them yet BUT they look like they perform great. they are super quiet also. the bike they came off of ( totally stock) wasnt no amazing super fast miracle bike. with no other mods it really wan similar to a fmf fatty bike that they had. if you want a set your going to have to buy new. you will never find a set used. there are just not to many out there. pc's are a fun pipe and respond well to modifications also. if you like the gnarly's and are dead set on a change try sst's OR some internal motor work. if you have some friends with different pipes maybe ask for a pipe swap day?

thats a country song isnt it?

hell around here i dont even shift out of 3rd.. dont even have time to make any mph. it sucks

no your not wrong your absolutely right.. to me i would have figured out why your motor only made 37hp before the rework.. and i'm guessing it was also that hp with the pipes? i mean according to you then you shuold have done a complete rebuild, trued crank, fresh seals, fresh motor internals, new pistons broke in etc dyno'd it, tuned it perfect THEN went from there with the port work only. then you would have seen a nice as new baseline then seen the porting alone.. i'm not trying to bash your motor at all. i'm not going to abandon this because of that crazy request.. i'm not going to build a completely stock motor just to have a start graph we all know what they run right off the bat. nobody asks for a before graph using all stock componets.. when testing any other buildup. i mean nobody. i never said the hard parts wont be modified thats my whole goal of this lil motor. all stock parts with modifications done. i think its gong to be fun. i do plan to take pics as i go along. the pipes should be a lot of fun they are going to get some nice rework done. they will still be basically the same pipes just "fixed"

nice vid! thats a great example of what i'm talking about also. the guys who have to let out are the ones getting beat ( duh) all those bikes are quick! the stock chassis ones are rockin big time. there is deff setup differences in them alos. sometimes its literally inches up or down ( shocks set up) , one tooth on a sproket, one less psi or more psi that makes the bike run like that full throttle 100% up the hill. my single is just like any other xluw single front . yea it dosent take big bumps all that well unless your on it hard. but i can slow down with one hand on the bars its really stable up top. on the sharks i bet the motor is pulling the swingarms forward on that side and yanking the chains out of alignment. Or the motor is twisting in the frame doing the same thing. but i doubt it.. a go pro pointed in that general area would probably confirm that its swing arm flex.. i dealt with engine/ frame miss~alignment on the dmr bullet.

i didnt think i could speeellll it out any easier.. guess not..... i said if the bike dosent work no jockey is going to make it faster....... if the rest is in line even a half ass rider that feels COMFORTABLE on the bike is going to have a lot more confidence to ride the bike.. thats what i meant.. a "jockey" that weighs 90 lbs and can ride and shift when they need on a bike thats built for the rider has big hp is controlable through whoops bumps and dosent ride up to fast in a wheelie yes that will be fast. take one away and your loosing.. hopefully thats a lil more clearer? the dual a-arm lsr's around here wheelie all out of control most of the time. my old single has a differnt rear piviot relationship to the front sproket and dosent wheelie nearly as bad if it does its extremely controlable. the DMR i have is based off of OEM rear geo and its a shitbox to put the power to the ground. i had tovplay with the setup a lot to get it to tame down and even be rideable. when i say rideable to me that means full throttle starts with a lot of clutch and a lot of lockup bikes that pull hard off the bottom and if they do wheelie just come up maybe a foot and stay there. thats the kind of setup i look for in a combo.

i have seen wack bore jobs all the time from so called reputable shops. i dont know whats going on but of center and to the front and to the back seems commonplace.. i dont know how thats ok>? the guy i use has a dedicated boreing bar on a stand and a few jigs thats used when they get bored the cyls are always straight and true, plus he wont do them unless i hand him the pistons. he sets the clearance to the actual piston thats being used. only time i have had a deff left and right wast mostly on cheaper budget rebuilds using namura pistons. but they always seem to hold up just fine. hot rods in gold coloring? must be new.. i really really really HOPE that they didnt farm the rod manu off to china...

it happens with some swingarms.. grind it out with a round sanding drum on a die grinder.

fast = HP works= frame setup.. rider with confidence ( cause the frame works and it has hp) = jockey/ owner rider, with a smile on his face.. if the bike is a turd and just wheelies how is any rider going to make it faster?? its a complete package. i personally believe the sand shark can handle the turbo motor AND be rideable.. the snomo is a cvt trans so the motor would be in boost all the time and not have so much of a problem making it early.. just like the drag snomo's are.. plus most sno guys that deal with these in a drag orentation have got their heads out of their asses and let the motor build boost early ( before it even launches) and maintain the boost on the run. plus with it being injected, and possibly direct injection thats even better... of course these are way out of the " banshee box" thinking and more just looking at it in a performance no holds barred flat out fast as fuck bike build. and of course i'm going to get bashed for thinking this way.. maybe even look into a turbo apex. like that raptor that was built.

flex seal phhh

i'm pretty sure him and his boy run a salvage yard in the middle of the burbs

great job!

yea those bikes traded wins multiple times. ole black sheep was running good too. its a shame to think the joker is a 4 mill stock cyl...

show me a 200hp dm on spray that stays together more than a few passes.... let alone the costs of all those billet parts and billet twistomatic crankshafts..... just saying what i would build like the poster asked for thats my honest opinion. i'd use a modern direct injected smoker... i do really feel the cost to build would be right in line with an all billet banshee based motor..?

was anyone else wondering what happened to snakehunt? at least we ran a 4 seater golfcart up to the observation deck on north side. got there a lot faster than walking.. i think friday night about 10pm everyone was in bed.

get the sand shark chassis... that way you can actually ride it confidently artic cat 1000 2 stroke turbo.. 300-400hp and it will stay together. i have heard noone will run shear's turbo up the hills out there anyways.. why build some tard 18mm dmx thats going to break constantly and cost over 10k to build? of course these are my personal opinions .

watched a 4 mill ( ?) stock cylinder drag build walk on most the cubs at snakehunt..

yup. duneables should have this done because of the wear.. so called balanced springs or not it will have pressure pushing the fork against the gear at all times.. they eat forks constantly this is also great for bikes that have tuning problems and stutter in lower gears and trash shift forks.. or from bad riders and crap overrides that need forks installed often.. nice work!

naw they are to bigg to load..

i'll send any you want. 400 each.

take bowls off. put fuel to the carbs hold floats closed see if its coming from somewhere else./ if not take the needles AND seats OUT and make absolutely sure you dont have debris in there. ( if carbs are new)

??? if you have the pipes sitting there try them all!

some sort of setup issue. OR its fine i'm 280-300lbs and most times need to launch in 1st. if i put a lightweight on the bike they will launch fine in 2nd. its just part of being a big dude. do some jetting checks i dont care what the "dyno" jetting shows. if i left the same jetting on the dyno runs i have had in the past in the bike when i ran it it would be dead lean and blow up. hell the 535 i had to shut the power jets off completely before it started making over 900 degree's on egt. cubs with stock carbs are usually in the 410-420 range on mains. but thats a cub.