camatv

TDR has been around for a VERY long time. he has great prices on somethings and does his own cranks also. the 10 mill i am using came from them. its not like they are a brand new store needing to make a name for themselves..

is this bike still for sale?? i saw it at little sahara its a really nice looking bike..

he said cockslp thats a good one!!

i have never had to buy needles for any of my lectrons. BUT i am going to get a set of gas needles for the carbs on my girfriends bike i expect to pay 60 bucks for them i think? and i will be able to switch them back to gas with out even having to remove the carb from the bike.. all my lectrons have the same hardware they came with some of the sets i have are almost 10 years old. perform just like they did when i put them on the bike's the first time.

you need to have someone that knows what to look at with your trans gears out look at them after you get the cases split.. you should replace the shift shaft, guide pin, return spring ( if its worn at all) and all 3 shift forks. as long as the trans dogs are in good condition. also check the drum for guide pin problems. then STOP shifting it with out the clutch. if you dont want to use the clutch, buy an automatic! OR only try and shift it unloaded. very seldomly. that is your not on the gas at all. and your not coasting down a hill.. would you try and shift a toyota corolla with a manual without the clutch??

do both cylinders have the same look to them. if its just the clutch side cylinder you most likely have a crank seal blown and your pulling in oil OR what did you mix your oil to like 1 /1 ratio?? did you replace the compression o-rings in the cylinders. when you did the top end? one of the reasons the banshee smokes so much when you start it is all the oil settles in the engine and when you start it back up it all moves around and burns kinda rich on oil when it warms up and warms the pipes up it burns it all off. any good oil shouldnt smoke like a fogger. once the bike is warmed up if it does your either too rich or too much oil. if you have fuel/oil in your tank thats seperating when your bike sits you got big problems. usually mix up what you are going to burn when you ride and try and use it all drain your tank if its going to sit for more than a few weeks... the fuel tank is vented and the fuel WILL evaporate a bit and may cause issue's

does anyone know where that grey yfzbanshee is now?? that mod was done by a guy in oklahoma i believe..

i love how it seems noone can read on this site.. or even craigslist. sorry to hear about your dad hope you can find what you need..

i'm looking for some out frame drag pipes need big bore if cpi's and prefer silenced but not gotta have. just whatcha got? i have a set of inframe cpi's non stamped for trade or possibly trade +cash.. will sell cpi's for 350 +shipping

i run TCW-3 certified oils and run 36-1 on gas and klots or 927 if i run out of klots in alky as same ratio thinking of going to 40-1 in alky next year.. you dont want to run that much oil for a few reasons.. one it will lean the bike down just a lil bit because the oil and fuel is mixed more oil the more fuel is displaced in the mixture. also unless your jetting is on the lean side and you run your exhaust at a high enough temperature you will cause a large amount of carbon buildup in the motor. the engine needs to run in a certain temps range or it cannot burn off the excess. if your jetting is right you should never foul a plug fouled plugs mean probably too rich on the jetting.. or too lean and your melting stuff inside the motor (uh oh!) most bikes i have seen and rode are way to fat on the slow jets or needle area. most stock carbs are pretty close.. in the needle and slows since the mikuni carbs rely heavily on the main's for overall jetting.

you have bone stock reeds???

maybe i'man idiot here but did you say that there was a crumpled up outerware INSIDE the air filter area where the carbs split??!!! inside the airbox against the carbs?

i have said this many times and have seen the graphs of pipe comparisons between the 2 the pc's are one of the only pipe that has the same midrange and low end as STOCK. even the PT's have LESS bottom end than stock pipes.. the dyno graps from pipe tests have proven that time and time again. the pc's are an excelent general pipe. i would love to build a woods stock banshee someday. the stock pipes stink and are heavy as heck but they make a very fun trail pipe. whens the last time you rember riding a STOCK banshee i mean a BONE stocker.. preferably a newer one. i have a friend with one and i forgot how muh fun they are to wheelie and trail ride..

all my lectrons are gravity fed. i dont mind the ranting it dosent bother me no mater what the product or who has built what there will always be someone that has had an issue or a problem with that particular product or shop its inevitable.. i love'd my 36mm lectrons on my trail bike they just worked really really well.. they are NOT packards id ont think they are ever FBG's i got them from a guy who sold them to me relatively cheap, i even let them sit for over a year then decided to try them took off the 35mm pwk's and these lil lectrons made the bike a lot faster.. i couldnt gett he pwks jetted just right with the jets and needles i had. but with the easy tuning capability's of the lectrons i got the bike almost spot on. i will admit that i have used them a lot and understand some of their quirks. but once you get used to them they are a very very easy carb to work with.

the relationship of the ball joints and the centerline of the tire is called steering axis inclination. (spelling?) or SAI i'll try and find a picture of it.. or think about it like this. look at the front of your banshee and draw a straight line from the top ball joint down to the bottom the CENTER of the tire needs the line up to the bottom of the line the more positive the more tire scrub you have and the more effort it takes for you to turn it.. also the terrain has more ability to bump steer your bars.. ths part of front end geometry is mostly ignored or not really known about. in an effort to get more "width"

there are some nice looking bikes in this thread and also some basic trail stock bikes. there have been a few questions on what makes a mx banshee? well i dont care if i pev some peep's off SO: of course those lsr and laeger's full frames are the ultimate in good geometry and banshee power BUT most of us cant afford one or find one for a decent price.. as far as a stocker goes. the reason for the -1 swingarm IS with a set of +1 forward a-arms you actually change the relationship of the center line of the motor. you actually move the whole balance of the banshee back one inch it makes for a much more balanced jumping bike and also makes it easier to ride. ALSO if you are going to buy NEW a-arms get at least +3's and run the INSET wheels even the 1/4's offset like stock. you need to keep the geometry and relation of the ball joints and the bottom of the tire straight if you have offset out wheels you are fighting yourself and causing a lot of unecessary arm pump. i can try and explain it more but its easier if i can find a picture to show the balljoint relationship i cannot rember the official word for it. the 2-1 pipe is a piece of shit you might as well keep your stocker's and i agree if you actually want to MX a banshee do as much suspension work as you can and leave the motor relatively stock only a few pipes ( and no not even turners) make as much lower end as stockers. NO the stockers WONT rev on top and the porting will hold you back. id say a MX banshee should have at minimum, front a-arms, +1 forward +2's or +3 wider -1 swingarm with a round type carrier in it, +4 axle , and better tires preferably 18's or 20's on back and as thin a top profile fronts as you can get like a mx type tire. spend time with your suspension setting it up to not buck through whoops and learn how to use all your brakes... i raced for 5 years before the 4 pokes came out. and stoped after a car accident hurt my knee. i was never very good at actual racing cause i was a lazy fat guy (ha!) but the bikes i set up were consistant podium finishers. ( i did manage a 3rd place state champion in 2000.) the real "secret" to MX racing is bike set up, maintenance and the MOST important is being IN shape, knowing how to RIDE and having a PROFESSIONAL teach you things to get you in shape and what style of riding works for you.. more often i saw people riding bikes that had the wrong bars, brake lever clutch lever placement and shifters that were all placed wrong. suspension all messed up and no training or track shapeup inbetween moto's..

the 450's put more power to the ground but they do break more. reliable and MX racing just dont go together mx racing even mildly puts huge strains on everything on the bikes. the lighter the atv the less strain they are going to have. the banshee's are tanks they have horrible geomoetry and the powerband even when "made to work down low" just sucks. i would have to say a 400ex with good suspension, few motor mods and well gusseted frame would be a much more comfortable and better suited ride than a banshee.. and might even be a better choice for the average rider that knows how to push that lil lever down called a throttle.. there are other choices as well the ltr kfx's 450r's and new 09 wide yfz's are excellent platforms. each has its pluses and minuses.. i would love to have a raptor 250 fully set up to play with!

i just thought of this why run the same gas in the rv you drove to get there as your so called "race" bike.. gas if for getting there alky's for whopping ass

welp if you want to spend the time removing carbs and yanking bowls stripping out those lil bitty philips screws and dealing with finiky floats, and fuel starvation from teeny tiny fuel chambers on keiheins, or mikuni's get them. dont get me wrong i have had my days with mikuni's and kehiens i have the jets, needles to prove it.. they all work great once you have them figured out but then day to day they will always screw up at some point.. people that dont like lectrons dont understand them. its just that simple. most builders have a carb that they are most familiar with and have the most "jets" for you give me a set of off the shelf packard lectrons and a bike i can have them installed and jetted nearly perfect in half an hour. with nothing to buy ever again.. no jet boards no different needles. no none of that stuff. if you want an excellent carb you need to get them set up right from the start and not just jump on ebay and try and find the cheapest lectron you can from a harley built in the 60's .. get a set of packards even a set of alky carbs and have packard send you a set of gas needles ( about 60 bucks) and turn the pj's off or you can always crack them open if your going to fire road it or some crazy stuff like that

anyone need some t-6's!

e85 is different and similar to alky. you will need to use an alky specific mix oil like klots supertechniplate or 927 those are some of the only oils that will mix with alcohol based fuels with that high of a mixture you will need the correct oil.. e85 also is not as rich needed as alky you should be able to get it jeted in with gas carbs and std jets. i havent tried it yet but on injected bikes because it is much easier to do an e85 wiht injection than a carb i couldnt get my alky lectrons lean enough to run it in one of my race bikes.. if you have extra race fuel lying around you probably be better off running that.. you can cut the fuel down by mixing it half and half with pump gas if you wanted..

i did a lil research twinrock sent you a pm might want to check it out for your aplication..

i would HIGHLY suggest the lectron carbs. i would even say maybe a 34 36 or 36/38 carb with the elevation changes it will take you about 20 minutes the first time you go out there to change the jetting for the carbs. you wont have to pull them off that bike at al since there are NO jets to change and all adjustments are made to the needle in the slide. the biggest thing you will need to read about how to make the changes the correct way. and how to move the needle.. if you have ever jetted a banshee with any other type of carb and then bought a lectron and jetted it you will never go back to the old replacing jets and messing with slows and all that BS.. i have been using the packard alky lectrons for a long time now. i recentely bought a set of gas 36mm lectrons and they were the easiest and best running carb i have ever had.. once you get your needle lengths figured out for the elevation changes you can write down the measurements and make the change in about 10 minutes. then you coudl fine tune it for differnt temps at any time in the year.

j-arm bikes are just as strong as the a-arm style. i have had many j bikes in the past even raced one in mx for about a year and duned the hell out of it i have had mostly denton j-arms with the warrior screw in ball joints. never had a problem and i like that they are alil lighter than the a-arm bikes. they didnt seem to be a nose heavy on jumps/.. those are nice looking arms stellar i would highly recomend using actual ball joints instead of hymes on them.. i have seen more hyme joint failures than any ,even stock, j-arms break.

are you using a cheeta cylinder? if you are you should also fill in the area on the outside where the cylinder seals with the top case half. the cheeta is wider at the bottom and will definatelly benifit from the added support i always filled my top cases holes also when doing the larger bore.. and the center where the transfers connect. after you do the case matching there is not much for sealing area on the stock cases. but its easy to fix with devcon.