camatv

try repacking your silencers.!! i have a set of sst's with fresh packing in the silencers they are super quiet i think to get any quiter you'd need to go back to stock..

you need to measure center pin to center pin then you also need to make SURE its a 4 mill crank. either by the set up of the head/ pistons or vice versa by measureing the stroke.

i would try out a good port first. you can bolt on all the bs you could ever want and the porting is going to hold it back tremeniously.. IF you feel your always shifting you might also play with you gearing a lil more.. if your just not satisfied at all buy a raptor 700. or any of the 400's that are available, most fun i had in trails was with a mx set up 426 400ex. and a 490cc big bore lt 400..

handle bar clutch perches were different from 99 on i believe? for the use of the parking brake override thats also why the newer cdi's are different they have the extra plug in for the P brake override. ALL stators will work on all years banshee IF you switch the plugs,. most all CDI's will work on all years banshee IF you switch the plugs, BUT on the newer ones if you dont mind loosing the p brake override. the older style front brakes were also much larger and with a set of braded lines will work very well in tt aplications. but if overrheated can warp front rotors easier due to the size. the flywheels on the newer ones 99 UP i beleive are differnt and have stronger magnets in them to help with the headlights dimming at idle. i'm not sure what the break in numbers are? the taillight will fit on all years with or with out the brake light i have one of the bigger ones on my 87 just hooked up the running light instead of the break light... all DYNA ignition will work on all bikes IF you dont mind switching the plugs BUT the newest years also use the p brake activation for the built in stutter that accesable through the programing add on.

to me the 2-1 pipe is more like a OEM replacement for stock just looks a LITTLE better than those big bulky huge arse monster snail heads they come with stock.. i was just looking into one as a posibility on a yfz frame conversion.

if its falling on its face is stupid LEAN!! last cub i did had a clean up port by me cpi's and case porting with stock carbs ended up with about a 410 main in it. ran bad ass.. stick a 400 in it and see what happens. cubs like FUEL!

looking to see if anyone has a set of 32mm to 38mm lectrons gas alky if alky really prefer the packards.. if you have any please let me know a price and i will need some pics. also may need intakes.. thanks. PM pleae dont respond to this and NOT pm me i'll probably miss it as i wont check this post all the time thanks..

6 months!! holy cow. i'm going to do a set next week looks like. and i told the guy one week turn key ( he's droping the bike off and picking it up done and running) if a shop takes that long its a sure sign of really bad management.

who builds these frames? why does the nose stick out sooo far its nice to be able to use as much stock style componets on a bike.. at times..

gotta love banshee hq!!!

found this on the site also. http://www.athena-ad.com/pdf/P400485100024.pdf this is the first set of instructions i have seen with measured squish cleanace tests and specs. thats a neat idear.. now dont get me wrong i'm not saying to run out and buy one of these right now..

that hp test says with all other original parts including pipes, air filter, box, spout and all. if they got 55hp on those parts that kinda shows the lackings in some other's 55hp "ported" cylinders with pipes, filters, and maybe even carbs..

so wait a minute your gonna race your banshee in MUD.. ok... i'd leave it stock then..

the MSR dominator bar is a great bar in alluminum. the KX high is a great bend for people that dont want ape hangers anymore. the cr high is a lil lower. rockymountain has a TON of bars they also have a bar measurement for each individual manufacture'r different manu's bars in the same bend most times have different measurements. the raptor 700 bend is awesome also not as tall as the other "atv apehanger bend" bars out there.

and actually youd probably be happier with just putting a banshee motor in a yfz frame..

none without mods..

the cranks one of the most important items in your motor. dont skimp on it..

devcon might hold it. bad part is if the tops of the intakes are that thin it will probably start seaping in other spots. i'd just get cylinders its not worth the issues' ( now if your just gonna trade it in to a stealership then HEY!@)

time for some BILLET!!!! i like the full front fender look. not to many of them around.. those pipes sure look nice.. i kinda miss them already.

thats really light for a full suspended chassis!.. i was thinking holy cow those tires ont he front are HUGE!!! most dragger's run around the 240-290lbg range kinda depends on whats all in the frame for suspension. the stock frame bikes are getting really light these days.

the "ripper" is an iteresting paddle. its likes TQ the more low end or tq your motor makes the more its gonna like ripers. also at time the sand at lil sahara gets very very dry its not a problem if you know what to do. the taller paddle will kinda dig at higher rpms and slow the bike a bit on top but if you get a 2-4 length jump on the line then it dosent really matter. (unless your RACIN TO ALVA) BUT ont he lower HP banshee's the 10-12 paddle hauler or extreme works good. triple buff 22-11-8. even a 13 paddle hauler is a not so know excellent mix between a 14 and a 12. the exact tire you need for the day your riding for the sand conditions and for the hangover you have is always changing!>

you need to back your timing down 7 degree on gas is too much dont go over 4.. wish you guys lived closer i'd let ya throw a leg over my "trail" bike with the t-6's on it. see what you thought of the "tq" it makes. and yes they SUCK on top. but holy shit the midrange/ bottom end! got any pics of the motofast? i think i rember one i totally forgot that there was 2 different models of this and really didnt even know. i know on dyno ports site there is a newer version out of the 2-1 pipe it looks like a lot better design not sure how it performs..

wow really!!! ok in that second picture see that HUGE GOLD COLORED bolt witht he flat head on it and the HUGE GOLD COLORED nut thats behind it.. the first picture dosent have the HUGE GOLD BOLTS AND STUFF> where your FINGER is. you need to gett the idle speed set screw thats NOT a factory yamaha part on a banshee and then get the drill and tap to install it. OR find another carb thats got it already installed OR find a buddy that put one in and borrow his tap and die to install it after you find it OR order another idle kit and just have a spare.! most likely the guy who put on the torrs delete either was to lazy to do the other side OR so stupid he put it on the INSIDE of the left carb so its nearly impossible to get to. if you can take the seat off and take as good of a picture as you can of the INSIDE of both carbs looking down the BOG is probably from badly synched carbs and/ or wrong jetting.. tell your dealership to try and learn more about the atv that they sold for over 20 years before they sell parts for it.. you may eve have to find a real shop thats local to you and have them explain all this and possibly help you out with it i even think i have a spare idles set screw that you'd need but i dont have the tap and drill to send you..

i'm not sure but i think its the older smaller chamber pipe. i'm kinda looking for one for a yfz project.

do you have an extra set of silencers??