camatv

good. this is a good thread already.. i will say this. i have noticed the best overall response both on and off the power in my 535 with modded cr250 reeds.. NONE of my drag bikes have used v-force reeds as of late.. now here is something to ponder. i wont go into specifics BUT what about using the cages to direct the chage into more of a specif area in the cylinder.. rember you dont have to use the same reeds on top as bottom...

i might have a YFZ to do a partial trade with?.. i bought it thinking i was going to do a banshee engine conversion but after riding it i cannot bring myself to tear up the frame. its an all JB racing preped yfz. was built for Thomas Brown. has JB preped frame, a-arms, swingarm and full PEP zps shocks all around with remote HUGE resivours. JB anti vibe stem, and ported stock motor with full GYTR clutch. the bad thing is 5th gear is hoping around here locally i havent even got into 5th in the trails. its the smoothest and longest powerbanded yfz i have ever rode.. full Nmotion pipe. stock carb i was told its all stock engine enternals BUT dont know at all. has k+n filter also. pm me your email and i can send over some pics.. i live in nickerson kansas..

sent pm on trans, shocks, and PWK's.. nice pipes on the cub! i have built a few cr500's like that for the local micro sprint guys. they all have wings on them. i cannot drive them takes me half an hour to squeze in the dang seat!!!

did anyone try and run the numbers with a long rod 4 mill crank? or short rod or long rod 350cc crank?? do the transfer ports get somewhat coverd up on the bottom with the cylinder sitting that low? the sleve shrowding is an attempt to get more fuel air into the exhaust side ports and probably try for more blow back on the rear ports. ( hard to describe..)

i have a set of 28mm PWK's i'd do a deal on? i have some jets i can throw in and stock intakes with a boost bottle. these are excellent trail carbs. BUT i'd need some pics of your carbs first. i can send pics of mine. [email protected] is email.

GREAT!! i will say this almost ALL the kehien carbs i have seen/ worked on/ tunes were WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY rich on the bottom end of the throttle range.. this made them feel very very boggy.. and made the illusion that they lacked lower end. i just slapped on a set of 35mm airstrykers and went from a 52 pilot to a 38!! its got excellent throttle response and has tons of low end response under load. its even stock non ported ( for now) cylinders. if your tuning your bike on a dyno rember this unless the guy riding your bike is making jetting runs acording to throttle POSIISTION you are seeing the bike under load responding with the MAIN jet ONLY.. just because at the lower rpm's it seemed rich/lean dosent mean the slows are lean/ rich.. almost ALL dirt bikes from the modern era had at least 35mm - 38mm pwk's on them and the cc size of the paltry banshee is at least 175cc per cylinder.. in my OPINON the 34pj's, preferably 35mm pwk air stryker should be the smallest carb you should think of. also the newer intakes should raise your carbs up enough to work.. any alky drag bike even a 350cc should use at least a 38-39mm carb.. i pefer the 41's.. and i also really prefer the lectron carb over any other's..

GREAT!!. this is good first hand experience!!. here's my kinda "take on it" he rad valves i like a LOT and of course due to their design they will really ONLY work with STOCK intakes. they actually use the intake and should have been built as a one piece deal and had the intake like a small connector like all the other styles of rad valves.. they do have MAJOR flaws in them that i feel is from casting? there is a huge mismatch and flat lip right at the tip of the reed opening you can smooth it out but the reeds are not long enough to make the transition smooth and even. the intake side of them can be worked over quite a bit. in my opinion they make a very responsive and even power delevery overall.. i'd really like to get a set of longer reeds for the cage but not sure wha that would do to the reeds life. i am going to try and get an old set back that i tried to make work with the larger carbs.. i chopped a LOT of them out and do some lil testing with them. i LOVE v-3's they bring great money even used.. i love to buy a bike with them on it and pull them out to sell. i have used mostly stock reed cages with smoothing and port work and 2 stae reeds in my smaller cc bikes. the v-3's do work good but for the price i just cannot see the increase to HP worth it.. i dont have any experience with the chariots but they sure look nice.. i wouldnt worry about the steel screws in the v-2's the v-3's dont have any issues of flying apart from falling apart that i have heard of? and all intakes and reed's are a lil mismatched. and should be matched if installing new.. anybody ever use any of the "other type" of reed cages and styles out there?

buy cheap eby junk what do you expect?? i have a NICE well built +4 for a stock carrier i'd sell its a METALTECH arm. its gots lots of gusseting and support and its cromoly.. i can email you some pics. i'd sell it for 250.. other than that i'd say get a round carrier type arm. stellar's stuff does look good!.. other wise buy one from a company thats been around for a long time. like LSR or lager, or other similar place..

looks like this one@!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350310388791

never seen a black center rod? not sure what brand rods those are maybe vesrah?? its a rebuildable crank so its NOT oem BUT you can buy the center section and make an oem a rebuildable type crank.. its a welded crank i'd be P.O.d that it was misrepresented that badly tho!!! wonder what it really is?? maybe some old ass crank from back in the day? you never know it might be a crank works crank?? TDR? weird VITO's? hot rods are not the only manufature'r of cranks..

gas bike wally world outboard TCW3 certified oil. ( yes really) or whatever brand that is at o'reilley's thats outboard oil.. 36-1 alky Klotz super tech. 36-1 if the havoline ran so good why did you stop using it?? just cause it wasnt sold at a "motor cycle shop" means its junk?

ok here's the SECRET the CATS OUTTA THA BAG!.. use BBQ GRILL paint! try that.. oh and dont forget black pipes are usually BIGGER than the other colors..

THANKS BROTTHA gotta LOVE banshee HQ~!

umm take the tops off your "buddies" carbs and get the needle number off of it then post it up here also!

here is another thread i'd figure i'd start acording to things i have read about in the forums as of recentley.. SOOOO lets gett eh debate started.. VFORCE 3'S are the BEST reed out there hands down.. RAD valves ONLY work with stock carbs.. different type's of reeds on stock cages wont help me at all. my 38mm pwk's make my reeds work so hard they will break. how often should you check your reeds? my drag bike will only run good with VFORCE. these are JUST statements i have read in differnt forms from time to time lets discuss it. and from time to time i will drop in and possibly state what i have learned and of course it will be my OPINION!!!!

ok. i've been reading here and there about different things and seen a LOT of thread jacking and misleading info. SOOOO i'd like to start a series of different threads that are SPECIFIC to certain issue's not sure how much discussion will get put down. BUT i hope a while bunch of bickering and testing and real WORLD results will come to light.. this will be the carberator thread!! soo i'll start it off MYTH OR FACT? you dont need any carb larger than a 33mm on ANY banshee even a drag bike..? stock carbs work/ ( wont work at all) on cubs. ?? 38mm pwk air styker carb on a dune? port is wayyy to big.. 35mm pwk's will result in a LOSS of bottom end and response.. boost bottles work GREAT! so lets here it !! and from time to time i may stick my head in and give my OPINON on what i FEEL works for me..

so let me get this straight.. at least you spent all the time and money to coat the pistons.. instead of getting a decent machinest that can bore cylinders correctelly... and not have them sieze? seems like a good trade off..

i'll get pics tomorrow. they are the 2nd version's id guess they have the old flange and are shaped like the t-3's not the big curve ones like you have AK . these are the ones that make the top end power. but still fit and you can get to your plugs and petcock, unlike the originals that were a straight shot and rubbed on everything.

great review!! oh and american made cars are NOT built by gm... american quality by who? those ass fucks are what started this whole american "economy fall out".. 15-20 years ago they had over 600k employee's. now when you hear of them firing 800 out of 15,000 employees it freaks people out. bullshit its kinda hard to get people to buy their shitty vehicles if nobody makes any money its a kinda circle of life thing. you pay someone to build your vehicles and most likely those are going to be the people who can pay for them or buy a competetors vehicle and allow someone in that other company to buy your vehicle anyways., thank god toyota decided to build factories here. the almost never lay off workers a while back instead of laying off people they hired them out to improve the city and comunity they lived in.. still paid them the same..

pro circuit does/ did full engine builds including porting, and custom heads. that engine would be a very interesting tear down if its a full PC build.. they are more known in the dirtbike world for the motor mods.. and even that is kinda unknown..

replate will cost around 200 +..

been painted black can see the old chrome? plating underneath no dents overall in great shape ( except they look like hell) strip the paint, clean them up, maybe repaint them i dont care NO SILENCERS !!!! sorry never got them with e'm 50.00 FIRM no i wont take 20 bucks for them. + shipping and paypal fee's if used. CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP! can email pics.

the wording for it is volumetric effeciency i believe? ( been a while since i dealt with it) its the ability of an engine to fully fill its cc size without any type of adders like NOS or turbo, super charger most motors are in the 90-98% range and its kinda hard to get an engine to overfill itself UNLESS you use a concept of internally pulling a vacume on a motor or use a higher velocity intake/ port design to add weight to the air coming into the motor and after the piston stops use that higher velocity to help overfill the engine. i used V.E. calculators in the automotive field sometimes to figure the condition of an engine and/or test certain componets like emmisions parts and intake MAF sensors and stuff. those dave moore pj's are pretty sensitive i like them they dont waste as much fuel i feel as other pj's. the clippards work good too. also rember the less fuel is in the bowl the less pressure?? is able to push the fuel inot your cylinder. what i mean is if your bowls have less fuel in them its also harder for the motor to pull the fuel into the engine. also one of the reasons i dont run alky carbs pig rich on the slow's/ needles, lower speed's. puts more fuel in the bowl for the run instead of blowing it all out the pipe.

get new neighbors!!

are the slow jets the same size on those 2 motors same power jet style? i have noticed that the bigger cheetas DO use a smaller dump, main ( with gas converted carbs) i FEEL <--( OPINION) that the cheetas are much more efficent than the cubs. the larger motor makes more power easier and with less fuel demand BUT a carber ator also reacts to the pull across the jets and the size of the air supply to the bowl. rember the carbs actually drawing a vacume in the bowl and the outside pressure is whats pussing the fuel into the carb.. i know on my 535 i can almost run the pj's off on my 44mm packards. and it will run really strong. most cubs i just cannot seem to get enough fuel to run them very far as they really demand a lot of fuel.