camatv

i see lots of problems already.. here are some idears. with out a plenum box the bike will be very "peaky" are the cases o-ringed? are the cylinders held on with hardened studs" are the cylinder's reinforced mounting? are the crank seals staked in or plated in? is the crank welded? does it have TZ bearings on the crank? are the reeds stiff enough to handle the turbo? does the r-6 throttle bodies and injectors able to handle the fuel demands of a turbo AND alcohol? if at idle your pushing over 85-90% your going to overcome the limits of the injectors. just a few idear's

where the needle clip is its right under that might be numbers/ letter's

i think i seen a vid on youtube of a chola's on a banshee looked cool.

i sure hope i'm one of the drinking buddies!!

thats a nice looking arm i like all that support for the shock . looks good..

big 4 strokes will murder any banshee in the TQ department. dollar for dollar if you want TQ either build a powervalve motor, or a large 4 stroke. 727 raptor (660 based) or 700+ raptor with mods. or a properly built 450 will have the advantage to just about any banshee in a real world mx racing.. unless you train your ass off a banshee is just not going to really do you very good yea its fast in the straights. but the chassis, weight, and ergo's just stink.. now a banshee motor IN a yfz frame might be a lil different story? a 68mm cheeta PV motor in a yfz chassis is on my someday list.. might take me a few years to get it done and realized but i will do it some day.

build it right from the get go and you wont have any mistakes.. the DM is available in a LOT of bore sizes.. and a ton of stroke config's bad thing is ( to me) if you have a stock stroke dm it looks just like a big one also..

if the front hubs have brake rotor mounts i'll take them. well looks like in the picture the rotor bolts are right there. so i'd guess they have them. let me know how to pay for them..

still looking. please have some pics available if you do have some thanks!!

if your looking for the squirrel cage sync tool check with your local dune buggy or VW shop. they are primarily used for setting dual or single webber's. i think EMPI sells them.. i found mine at our local vw repair shop. 30 bucks.

i have a set like new 25.00 shipped..

611 cheeta is cheeta motor unless you special order a dm 73mm bore most dm's are in the 78mm+ bore range. so a 16mil crank would be a big motor.. 16 cheeta is VERY fast.. but it takes a lot to control the power frame, clutch, and trans are very important..

36mm lectrons. fbg OR packard gas easy to switch to alky later if you ever want to. if your blind to lectrons, 35.5 AIR STRYKER pwk's are nice also

hmm 10 mill pv cheeta sounds interesting.. but in all honesty i think it would almost be too much power for mx racing.. not sure on tt/ flat track.. i'd seriously look into a 4 stroke for MX you will not get as tired and be able to ride much faster for much longer. plus the weight savings are huge anymore.

i used the EGT digitron on my 535 to kinda keep the motor in check with hotlapping/ dune racing it. i was running around 980ish full throttle end runs temps run after run after run. if i needed to i could heat it up with the pj's and run faster but still stay int he kinda safe zone. but really onalky i just like to use the ole seat o the pants and ears for tuning BUT when my crank blew out on the pin the egt did show a major air leak that i didnt really hear and i was able to shut the bike off before it destroyed the cylinder.. was also nice to use the download'd stuff and see the tire spin, clutch working, and gearing compared to rpm chart was kinda neato/

burn.. even i knew NOSS made his own stuff. and truthfully his head is one of the few that i trust anymore escpecially with big bore domes on 95hp+ stock head needs.. not saying modquad makes junk..

yes and no there is even debate between engine builders as to what carb to use. sometimes its a matter of guessing!! you say i want an MX port/ head/ carb set up now if you asked me i'd say then dont waste your time on a banshee for mx racing.. (i can set one up BUT overall you'd be wayy better off with some other type of bike) now most peopel would get pissed if you say that to them but i am known for being brutally honest even if it means loosing a certain "job" there's things i just wont do.. on the other hand what carbs would work well for : MX riding: need strong acceleration and very very broad power and very low to no pipe "hit"..? trail riding: i'd say fire roads? tight trails? long windy trails rocky technical trails? dune riding: again.. put put trails, goofing trails? tree shooters, hill climbers? play dragger? drag racing: asphault? rider, jockey, frame weight, fuel used, sand, dirt, asphault, hill racing? would all these conditions need a different motor type? wouldnt all these conditions almost describe about 90% of the average riding you might do with your banshee over a years period or so?

yamabond grey. OR auto store ultra grey or import gasket maker, grey in color. easy to remove ( carb cleaner or brake clean will soften it up easily) and hold up very well. never wanted to try something else i really dont feel like pulling a motor all the way out for a couple dollar sealer issue..

yea wow. if you just change carbs and you already are reaching the nominal rpm limit of the bike the TOP SPEED will most likely be the same. you need to judge the bike by ACCELERATION i HATE it when people ask me how FAST my bike goes anymore i tell them it does 190 mph.. 35mm AIR STRYKERS will give a much better response to lower throttle signals than the 34mm pj's.. i would chose them over the 34 pj's on any trail bike.. cubs with stock carbs are a LOT of fun. people will see that you have stockers on it and think oh i heard that a cub wont run with stock carbs then you can spank them ( if your shizzle's tuned right..) and see the disbelief kinda like if/ when you whop cubs with stock cylinder 350's.. NOW if your carb's are a lil rich and you go STABBING them full throttle. no throttle. you will probably see issue's with the response of the motor. if your trail bike seems BOGGY with larger carbs PLEASE experiment with needle positions and slow jets. i bet its a lil to rich.. you miht just suprise yourself.. rember if you can cause your bike to go into a lean rev with the air screw's your really close to correct on the slow jets.. to me i just see to much emphasis on MAIN JETS and ohh my bike has a bog/hang/studder/poopie section in it and nobody can figure it out or they just live with it. dont be afraid to play with your carbs slow jet/ needle position, idle air screw.. plus you get that set right and the main jet will be much easier to get right..

ooo yeaaa ummm not looking to throw in anything on my side of the deal. i actually really like this yfz... ( and anyone who knows me knows i think 4 strokes are for pit bikes ONLY).. and i know what you mean red. i have a full lsr banshee with a 490cc cheeta in it with all the stuff you could imagine thats a PROVEN ass kicker can't get 6500 out of it.. cant bring myself to part it out its just to much fun to ride.. i think ole cal's (kickstartyourballs) gonna buy it here pretty soon anyways!>

i had some cylinders like that !!!

i have had no problems with my NOSS heads.. also the RKtech head is nice

that sucks !! anymore i am taking pictures of motors as i build them that way the buyer has pics of whats actually in them and i have also been giving signed sheets with build lists and have signed them fully also stating that if anythign in the motor is NOT on this sheet i'll fully refund the entire price of the sell/ build.. i have a basket case ( its a great all rebuilt motor) i am redoing as we speak its a disaster. blown crank, shot pistons, mismatched domes ( for a 4 mill even) and left over crappy parts.. i feel bad for the guy he just bought the bike..

i have blown a lo of skirts of off PRO x pistons. wont ue them again.. only other rpiston i have much experience with are vertex. and heck they might be numura's. or ART's or whatever's lying around the shop floor at the time.

if you use the rattle can stuff OR the bbq grill paint and then bake it in probperly it works very well and touch ups later are much easier.. i personally wouldnt waste the time/ money on a powdercoated set. i'd either go "works" and wd40 the suckers ( cool as shit) or do the ole rattle cann job..