vtekthis

good find! i wasnt worried about the main jetting either, but now that u have found that problem, it would explain why the burn ring is soo far up on that plug at only idle.

lol, guess u dintd read my posting to well, the part of that plug that is black (bottom near the threads) is where the WOT circuit lies, hence showing me the main jetting, looking at the pics he posted wont tell us much at all about the idle circuit of that plug. he needs to take pics of the plug before he chops it..... yes i know his main jetting will not give us any idle information at all. unless the throttle cable sheath is pulled up on the carb top, causing the needle to be raies out of the main at idle haha that would suck

what gas are u running? what mods? stock timing? porceline looks like its bubbling, sign of to much heat or wrong plug heat range... doing a plug chop doesent tell u shit about the idle circuit, the lower part of the porceline is the WOT circuit middle is part throttle and the top of the threads is ur idle, some fresh gas in it, new plugs, let it idle and return with results. looking at the pictures u posted shows me nothing at idle, but a rich main jetting/neddle position, and some bit of contamination/heat. IE water/metal shaving/ too much timing/wrong plug heat range ect.....

i may throw it on my buddys dyno with some widebands, to see where we are at...

the color of the plug where the sun dont shine, took her out for a few more rips in top gear WOT and snd seems the off idle may be a little on the fat side. if Ethonal works (plug reading wise) like methonal, the jetting must be waaayyyy rich. I know from 4 cyl racing i do, it may take a couple hits to make the plug change color, and im getting color in one hit. maby its the E85? who knows, it seems to be running great, i will keep you informed on how it stays.... plugs are one step colder heat range wise

After a couple weeks contemplating trying it out, and a few discussions on here. Finally it runs on E85! A few mods had to take place, and if anyone would like to know i can explain. This bike is stock other than fmf pipes..... jetting is as follows: 40 pilots and 500 main. Got it from from vito's (thanks BTW) .It could use a 45 pilot as the air screw is only a half turn out and it likes it. Plugs look great! A little on the fat side, but hey its cold here and it pulls through perfect. thanks banshee HQ!

thanks for the info, now that we have that info, what premix do you guys recomend we start at with the eth? are we still using 32/1 oil premix? what are some of the other oils out there that will be good for alcohol premix?

yes Q16 is left over from this race season, and will sit all winter if i dont burn it somehow... i guess its better than burning it on the floor.... timing is pushed a little, other than that and pipes, the bike is stock. i spoke with vitos today, and got my hands on a set of 400/490/500 mains from a snowmobile. also got a set of 40 and 45 pilots, i dont think ethonal is as radical as many think it is, but i will see soon.

looking for where to begin with the change over to E85. i have been recommended a 420 main and a 40 pilot, in hopes this will be a rich start to my quest for a well running alternative fuel bike. bike has typical mods, pipes, timing advance.... everything else is stock. motor carbs ect. currently bikes runs great with Q16 (127 octane oxegenated fuel from my race cars) where is the best place to get a few main/pilot jets of assorted sizes? anyone have any experience with E85 and OEM carbs? any input is appreciated! thanks

it gets tapped out

thanks, im guessing i would need drilled down tubes and main jets because of the amount of extra fuel to be burned to run alky? i would not be able to get away just doing a rather large main jet? thanks for the input.

anyone use alcohol with stock carbs? i am asking if there isd any side effects to doing this...is there seals you guys are having problems with? tank problems, ect? i am not a reatrd and have more than enough methonal here from this past drag race season, that would be stupid not to use it over the winter. just wanted to know. TIA

Hello, everyone, just got the banshee together, put a new set of carbs on (well used but new to me) when started the clutch side cylinder just loads with fuel, pipe doesent get hot on that side, the bike will start on just the dead cylinder just loads with fuel and fould the plug.. any ideas? does not matter where u put the airscrew or idle, it wont make a difference...TOR is also deleted also raw fuel is coming out of the exhaust on that side, it will fire sporatically then nothing at all compression was 120 on both sides fyi

Hello, all, i wanna say im new here! my name is darren, and i just picked up a non running 2000 banshee for 550 bucks (thought it was a good deal. here is my issue, apparently the guys i bought it from crashed it, needs a left side upper control arm, rear axle, and they said it didnt run. i am familiar with elec systems, as i build honda race cars. These guys took apart the carbs (i am missing pieces) because they though thats why it dint run. i have been reading about this tors system and would like to get a new set of carbs without this sys operating. i currently have the carbs off and the tors units disconnected, and have noticed it does not have spark in either cyl! i gapped the flywheel, took the ohm readings from the stator, all checks well, then for shits i deisconnected a little black box (right next to the coil) AND BOOM spark in both Cyl!!! what is this box? is leaving it disconnected gonna affect if down the road? is there a reason these go bad? i am guessing this was the previous owners problem al along... thanks for the help Darren