camatv

4 strokes suck i rebuild motors in banshees quite often most of them are at LEAST 10-14 years old when the crank lets go.. built right and half ass maintained the banshee 2 stroke motor is very very very reliable.. compared to the on edge 4 stroke 450's of today.. the 700 rappy isnt as bad..

if you part it out i want the seat cover and the 2 c-clips inside the motor that hold on the shift fork shafts.. WOW~!!! short rods rev and make a broader powerband. longer rods will usually make a shorter band but can make a LIL more overall HP.. this is nothing new every motor has diff rod lengths and etc. the 115's are sometime necessary in strokers to CLEAR the crank at bottom the skirts can sometimes whack the crank at longer strokes.. but havent really had to deal with that in a LONG time.. i personally really prefer a stock stroke at 110 rod and others i dont really care. the norm is a 4 mill with longer rod its a well known setup parts are easy to get and its a very common "performance" motor.. broken skirtsis due to sloppy fitting pistons or too much piston -wall clearance. not a rod length.. i have always heard if you measure at the balls its longer..

send it to me. your gonna need diff pipes for drag racing also. you will probably have to change the entire bike up depending on how serious into draggin you want to go. or just buy my 485 and be done. it has a 4 mill crank......

the t-5's will hold it wayyy back it will still run of course.. the 2-1 WHAT FOR??? for sand i'd say 10-14paddle haulers or extreme's

i heard the "rose bud" was a good one to try on a virgin..

and thats the exact thing you need to discuss with your "builder" instead of buying the BBD get what YOU want for the power YOU are looking for. the serval deff has its place..

i wish clarke would ditch the nut buster on the top and keep them the same flat level as stock. i'd be much more prone to install one.

whats bad is i'm not as old as some adn i know what a "piston port" motor is... i also rember when adding a 2nd transfer port to a 2 stroke cylinder was KILLER!! when 500cc made 35hp and that was amazing!! when 4 inches of travel and a MONO shock was the coolest around! when 40" wide handle bars was the "thing to get" when the biggest jump on a motorcross track was 3ft tall when racing through multiple towns was the norm. when national racers worked out of their house and drove to the events in a dodge van. when "porn mustache" was the coolest thing around ( well it still is i guess huh)

how do you race that with all the wires in the way? HA

sell those stupid ass pipes..

i ship stuff with my old underware from the last dune trip as packing.. 3 days never change EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEUUUUUUUUUU SMELLY!

self taping screws hold those tennis balls on really good. i'm going to be 35 next few weeks.. i hope to have a 4 cylinder stock cyl bike some day planning on about 5-6 years from now... so no plans to quit just yet.

port matching has been done for as long as "performance" has been around.. i port match all the intakes, reed openings and even OEM stock intakes can be touched up. there are casting flaws all over the place in the intake, reed area.. even vf3's./

stock is 13 psi if you know your lean thats SOME of yoru problem. they DONT have a fan so dont be a newb and let it sit and idle for a while then wonder what the coolant is doing.. if you DONT have an overflow bottle then leave a lil room in the radiator for expansion or its going to naturally squirt a lil bit out.. if you do have a bottle fill the radiator all the way up and leave the bottle nearly EMPTY it will expand and go into t he bottle and you will have your proper level.

where are the american companies that would be able to build, sell this anyways?? bet the parts would cost more than 130 bucks.. then the dude to design it, the cnc machine to cut it, the welder to weld it all together the first ones would cost 1000 bucks.. then to ship them anywhere would involve taxes and duty's and UPS fee's and gas tax and surcharges...

did the wrist pin come out??

blazing hot!! so hot i'll be at the lake its my B day also

used the cpis' and shear are usually about the same.. 350-400?

simply put the serval is NOT a drag motor its NOT going to make your bike a bolt on drag bike like a cub.. i try to sell that motor to the people that i deal with that want a good DUNE motor OR a strong TRAIL motor and want big bore and their stock cylinders are trashed.. with out the proper pipes and set up its going to be a turd but really what would you EXPECT out of a low port timing motor like that? it has its place in the atv world.. unlike the 421 not just anyone is going to be able to slap one together and make 90+hp. these are for a certain crowd. when my 421 ss motor has issues with the cylinder these are what will go on it. its NOT a drag bike. its NOT extended.. its a RIDER!!.. i mean with proper set up it makes 75-80hp on pump gas and decent TQ thats a FUN motor to RIDE>

raise clip ONE position. then add ful on main. try 280/290/300 if still laggy. buy TOOMEY jet kit and install the needles they offer. it will run excellent after that. dont overrev too far on accell. if your in overrev on the pipes and shift they can be unloaded and not come back on right away. shift right after the power seems to drop then train yourself to shift just before that happens. shift at the peak of the power.. fmf fattys have a distinctive flat spot on top they wil still rev but will fall off on power. t-5's is very distinctive. its easier to train with those pipes..

36/38mm lectrons.

buy the best fugg the rest

cubs are cast with differnt and more aggressive port timings.. servals i would say are a replacement stock cylinder option with the POTENTIAL to be faster. BUT they are dependent on proper combination to see any real high HP gains.. the cubs ( escpecially the 421 68/58) is more of a bolt on drag motor. dosent take much to make one run very well. the serval to run proper might take some actual work, effort, and know how to run well. but the casting is there for a "builder" to play with port timings much like a stocker cyl would be.

thisis VERY common as is all the GIMICKS out there to try and "fix" the problem. most are a band aid backyard fix that WONT work.. if you ONLY drag race get an override.. if you actually ride your bike like MOST of us do you need what i'd call a modified stock trans or a super stocker something like that.. when i figured it out oh so many years ago i did them for MX bikes. you think missing 3rd on a drag race is bad think about it false neutraling on the face of a jump!!! the mod is very simple all in all. but takes time to do as the cases need split so the trans will come out.. i have gear sets already cut and ready to switch out. WCR also offers this mod as do MANY other site sponsors. just be SURE of what you are getting if you DONT want an override DONT get one!!

my jj+a slips apart very nnicely every time. you should try antisieze very very very thin on it. or plain ole axle grease.. every surface where 2 metals meet should have a small amount of lube to conteract moisture and siezing. like the swingarm bolt.. and stock axles, front hub's etc.