SDD

I guess this just goes to show why people pay more for A-arms that come from companies like Lonestar, Roll Design, Alba, Quicksand, and the other well known brands.

The best one I have found is the Duncan Racing lock nut. It's just like the alloy specialties one but the duncan one is made out of stainless steel. It holds up to more abuse and can actually clamp down with more force.

The side that has the big hole fits towards the outside. The metal cap on the side of the swingarm fits into this hole. You have to cut the bearing sleeve off.

It depends on what brand you get. First remove the chain. If you buy the UPP brand you just have to cut the old wheel off and the metal bearing sleeve under it off. Then you open up the UPP slider and put it over the swingarm and tighten the screw down. Put the chain back on and adjust it. If you get a cascade you have to take the swingarm off basically.

It probably wasn't for a Banshee. I have a revalved and resprung stock shock for my extended swingarm. Sell that thing on ebay and take your stock one in for some work.

It may just be the picture but that porting work looks like crap

Tighten your parking brake

Your mains sound a little rich for your altitude and tempature. How did you plugs look?

Check your jetting at idle????? Tell me exactly how you would do this. Nasty I bet you have an airleak some where that caused your rings to stick. Do a leak down test after you get it rebuilt to find it.

Depends on pipes and altitude

Most of the time dealerships don't make that much off the sale of a bike. It's the selling of parts and other aftermarket items that kills ya. I get a decent discount at my local shop so parts are not that bad.

Although every machine has different jetting requirements to me you guys sound way rich unless you have some serious port work done. I am running 340 mains on ported cylinders. Most shops recommend 300 mains with 30 pilots with a open airbox lid at Glamis. I say leave your jetting how it is until you can do a few plug chops to find what your individual machine needs.

You would have to explain what you mean by popping. If it's more of a thud inside the motor it could be detonation from the advanced timing and high compression from the milled head. At idle does one cylinder seem like it's not firing (no smoke and cold air coming out of the silencer)? Your air screws could also be off causing a lean condition on one side. We need more info...

Do you have the bike in neutral?

Depends on what kind of riding you want to do and what kind of mods you want done to your motor.

I think I have 260/270/290 maybe even 280 but I'd have to check my jetting bag. Let me know what you need and we'll work a deal out.

It was down right hot here in San Diego... 90*f in the shade... almost too hot to do anything outside.

What kind of motor do you have in this thing that you would need a +24 swingarm? If this is a drag machine why a +8 axle? You say your going to be there 15th-17th??? Monday to Wednesday? I will be at Buttercup on the 13th and 14th then picking up camp and moving to Glamis for a few days then maybe down to Gordons for a day or two.

I had a local shop do it. The most expensive part is converting the stock seal head out with a standard shim stack seal head. It cost me around 300 to have the rear shock done. A good rear shock will cost you 750 though and really the rear shock is a great unit once it's revalved and resprung for your setup.

If you can't start it with the kick start lever don't try other methods of starting. You will only risk further damage if something is wrong with it. Check the basics... fresh gas, enough gas in the tank, new spark plugs, plugs actually sparking, there are only a few basic things needed to run. If you don't have gas, air, or spark you know you will need to dig further. I'd have to say it's something electrical off the top of my head.

You have an air leak. Do a leak down test and you will find your problem. The normal areas are the reeds or the carb tops (specially stock carbs with the TORS system on them). If you were jetted correctly before you shouldn't be lean... unlike what some wanna be "know it alls" tell you.

I had my shock revalved and resprung. It's kind of expensive to have done but once you do it makes the ride way better.

The only plastic parts I can think of on the clutch side of the motor are kick start assembly piece, water pump gear, and the dip stick. Nothing else is inside the clutch cover that is plastic. There are rubber pieces like the cushions inside the clutch basket, the rubber o-rings between the clutch plates, and the various seals.

Demon after I put a +2 on my Banshee I rode it for one weekend in the dunes. After that weekend I knew I had to revalve and respring. Once I had that done it made a world of difference. When adding the longer swingarm on a shock that was already soft just made things way worse. I wanted to buy a swingarm slightly longer but still short enough for big jumps and I settled for the one I got.

Dirtgirl it was the connector leading from the clutch lever correct? Period (user name " . ") was leading you in the right direction saying parking brake but you would never have looked for this connector unless you knew everything that is connected to that system. Good to hear another machine is running normally again.