SDD

I've got a complete set of A-arms from my 99. I don't have the pivit tubes or end caps as they are on my procomps. One of the lower arms has a small dent from skimming a rock in the desert but it's very minor. I'll sell the whole set for 75 plus shipping. Email me if anyone wants them... I'll get some good pics this weekend.

Pull the left carb and take the pilot jet out... make sure nothing is plugging it up. Check the air screws to see if they are equal. Do you still have the TORS boxes on top of the carbs? If you do make sure the idle adjust screws are turned out the same amount.

Roughly add about 3 teeth on the rear to equal 1 tooth on the front.

Justin give me a call tonight so I can pencil in some time for the leak down test. If the head is leaking we can pull it off and check it on a surface plate to make sure it's flat. Justin when you put the head back together after the pinched o-ring did you put the domes back on the same sides they were on? If the same side is leaking it might just be a bad dome (if it was cut just .002 off in height it might not seal correctly but I doubt thats the case).

It's not the pump seal it's the coolant passage through the clutch cover. If you take the clutch cover off you will see a tube about in the middle area of the upper case right along the edge. There is one metal ring to hold it in place and one o-ring to seal the coolant from leaking into the gear oil.

There is a lot you have to do. One is trench the cases so the crank will fit in the first place. Second is the port timing will get screwed to hell so some port work is needed. Third you will have to compensate for the piston coming above the deck by either adding a spacer plate under the cylinder or possibly adding one on top of the cylinder or milling out the head to let the piston ride up in there. Your looking at something that is pretty expensive but if setup properly will have tons of torque and lots of HP.

Try adding some more gas to your gas tank. Even if it seems as if you have enough adding a little more gas to the tank will not hurt anything.

Willie what kind of exhaust port duration are you running? 150 psi on 18cc domes seems low. When was the last time you rebuilt your motor? What elevation are you at?

Depends on if you have a stock type extended swingarm or a round housing and what kind of brake line you have. A stainless brake line (stock length) will work with a +4 round housing and maybe a +2 stock carrier.

You might want to have a shop check your bore for roundness. Sometimes a cylinder will distort when hot or when torqued down.

Oops... double tap

Is this for a K&N or Foam filter?

Just to be safe you can check to be sure the crank is within specs while you have it out.

I think your maintenance problems come from the age of your machine. If your profile is correct you have a machine thats 14 years old this year. That much time will take it's toll on any machine. Banshee's typically handle 7-8 years before any major motor problems arise. If you don't keep the machine in tip top shape it will not last that long and problems compound themselves just as they would on a four stroke. Rebuilding a four stroke is a much more involved process and costs much more money if you don't do the work yourself. Raptors have their share of problem (one way bearing, upper a arms bending, crank rods breaking after mods, and some other minor ones). Pricing out some of this stuff makes Banshee parts seem down right cheap.

The only difference between an O ring and X ring is the shape of the ring. They both do the same purpose. One advantage of the X ring is supposed to be less drag. The amount of ring touching the side plates is lessened with the X ring due to it's profile ]0[ verses ]X[

Every once in a while the O/X-ring no O/X-ring debate pops up. My feelings are as follows. The ringed chains keep lube in the rollers and pins and keep dirt out. I don't lube my chains before every ride because the lube attracts the dirt and sand that I try to keep out of my chain. I clean my chains when the build up of grime is enough to warrant me doing so. Non ringed chains need to be lubed before each use. The dirt that is attracted by this lube works its way into the chain making it wear much faster. If your non ringed chain is squeeking you know that your chain has dirt in the rollers and pins. Since this crap is in there it's accellerating the wearing out much faster. If your chain has stretched out so much that you have to remove a link to get it back in spec YOUR CHAIN IS WORN OUT!!!! A chain should basically only "stretch" during it's first use from it pushing the grease out of the pins and rollers. The rest of the time spent adjusting your chain is to compensate for wear on your sprockets. I don't understand why some people run a chain until it snaps causing cracked cases. Replacing a chain is part of regular maintenance just as adjusting the chain.

DID X-ring ATV chain. It's one of the best chains you can get from a stealership.

If you are seriously going to race I would not get the steelers. You will want fully adjustable shocks so you can fine tune the shock. The cheapest fully adjustable front shocks I know of are the works pro series. I have these on my banshee and recommened them for someone on a budget that still wants the ability to change all the shock settings.

Go buy a cheap deep well socket that will fit over the threads. Take a BFH and smash that thing out of there. The socket will push on the flat area of the end of the axle so you will not damage the threads at all.

Don't forget to look at the top case for tossed chain damage. Check the bottom of the case for fresh oil (cracks in the lower case, leaking oil). Lift the rear end off the ground and try moving one of the tires up and down, forward and backwards, and in and out. Any major play here could be loose axle nuts to shot axle carrier bearings. Look for large dents or cracks on the lower tubes of the frame. Turn on the lights, low and high beams and check the rear light. Check the chain slider, chain guide, and the two chain rollers for wear and make sure they are still there. If it still has the stock chain slider wheel I am willing to bet it is warn way past its limit and could be cutting into the swingarm pivit tube. Most importantly ask lots of questions about maintanence and how it was ridden. Write down all the things that you have found wrong with the machine and price these items. I do not buy something the first time I see it (walk away even if the seller is making you a deal). Think about what it needs and come back a second time with prices of parts you will have to buy and haggle them down using these numbers. If they aren't budging on the price don't be afraid to walk away but leave them a number where they can get ahold of you incase they give in. Most of the time they will call you back.

There are only two suspension settings you can change on a stock banshee. One being the tire toe in/out and two the front shock preload. Changing the preload doesn't change the bottoming resistance just the ride height. Widening the stance helps with turning to a point. If you get too wide you will hit objects you might have normally been able to ride between. If you get too wide your turning radius grows larger as well. If you flip your rims you still can't adjust your suspension settings but you will put more stress on the spindle and lugs and other front end parts. Air pressure is kind of up to what you like running. In the sand I like to run a little extra pressure so I don't roll a bead off the rim. Too much pressure and you will loose traction. Finally you can't compare stock to race setups. Race is much better since it's not a general setup but rather tuned to your riding style, weight, and abilities.

Toomey sells spark arrestors that fit the ends of the silencers on his website. If you can find the model number some where you might be able to get them else where for cheaper. You could also just buy a hush kit v2.5 and be done with it.

You probably got a pro design filter adapter made for a foam filter not the K&N. These things happen when you order stuff off ebay (say it's one thing and it turns about being something else).

If it revs up on it's own as soon as you start it you probably have an air leak. The back firing is a sure sign that your lean on that side. I bet these symptoms describe your problem... idle is kind of rough, there is no smoke during inital start up on one side, the side that isn't smoking is blowing cold air, it only back fires at low throttle settings when putting around, and it runs fine at half to full throttle. It doesn't cost anything to pull the carb off and to check the pilot jet... do this before replacing any parts.

You could have two things wrong. One the air screws aren't turned out the same amount or Two you have something plugging the pilot jet on the side that isn't firing. I bet it's a plugged up pilot jet. There have been two or three cases of this happening over the last few weeks. Take the pilot jet out on the side that isn't running and look through the jet to be sure nothing is plugging it up.