T469

haven't moved the needle, left it in the stock position. so that may very well fix it. just wanted to know what's worked for everybody

yes adjusted the airscrews quite a bit and it helps but just moves it around and will bring a hesitation if i remember correctly. i have tried a bigger pilot but not tried back to stock. if i actually narrow it down to a sputter instead of a bog then i'll go down to stock on the pilots

The bog happens down low probably 1/8 to just b/w 1/4 & 1/2 then revs out clean, like it should. no bog anywhere above 1/2 for sure. what exactly would you do different if it was a hesitation. i've not ridden in 2 mo's due to the weather but pretty sure it was a bog. i'll have to get it out and ride to make sure though.

had pt mids for over a year now and love them perfect for trail ridin and short dragin'. running 27.5 pilots, 300 mains at about elevation of 1500. running pro design filter no lid. pipes are great, great power, but still have a little bog down low that i'm going to try to get rid of this season. they will pull through it but very slowly. the rest of the powerband is good just down low where i use it the most is where the slight hesitation/bog is. should i go down on the mains and lean it out abit or start adjusting on the needle. i know banchetta is the master and just wondering what he thinks and what everybody else is running. just wanting a smoother low end so don't have to rev it up before climbing a big hill from pretty much a standstill. let me know what everybody has tried and is running. since i was so close and wanted to stay a little rich, i just lived with the little bog down low but would like to have a clean rev from the start.

what is everybody's opinion on the best axle lock nut. i'm getting tired of the nuts coming loose while ridin'. i've used alot of locktite to cure the problem but after that they are just so hard to get off. so i'm looking for which lock nut is the best, been leaning toward the new rad with dual locking allen bolts.

no i don't have pics but look around. i have seen them installed on somebody's show bike, that's when i decided to buy them. actually i think it looks really slick. they stay together and i've had a few people compliment on them. they work really well feel just like the others. well worth the $100 i spent on them. mine are clear coated and show up well.

yeah ive got a set and they work great just as good as everybody elses. i ride with a bunch that got lsr and whitebrothers lines and i think mine look better with the double lines coming off the lever. made it a little tough to bleed but if you get a mity vac they'll be perfect.

yes i had to grind off the bottom of the shock itself. but not much. now just workin on getting them set. got them pretty close and love em so much smoother than stock.

they don't expand like the rubber hoses that come from the factory. makes for a solid brake feel. really helps the braking awhole lot. makes the back brake usable with them and not so spongy. if you're on black top and put you're weight on the front you can actually do stoppies with the steel braided lines.

upp rollers and slides are great. wanted to try t.m.'s slide but after buying their rear chain guide and having it lock up and create drag i probably wont. although their rollers have worked well, i have had one of their lip rollers on the bottom and its holding up pretty good. but don't buy the rear chain guide from t.m., mine locked up from the mud after only 3 or 4 rides, so from now on i'll stay with the slides.

do a search for MR matt for some pics, he'll do it for 100 dollars and it's probably worth every penny unless you've got confidence and patience and like to fabricate things. also i got a few other pics from a few other members when i did mine, but mr matt's how to tells how exactly to do it and hell help with anything you need.

you still can spin up the hills if you want, but with it you don't have the worry of spinning out on a real steep hill. the -2 just makes it feel like more power is getting to the ground, actually makes you quicker up the hills, front end still doesn't want to come up unless you want it to. sliding is better than stock and the jumping is another plus. feels more like it should in the air, makes you more confident to hit the big jumps. by no means does it make it a wheelie machine, just when you want the front end to come up it will, instead of just spinning the tires.

if you just install the shocks they'll fit with just a little grinding on the mounts. as far as performance they are a night and day difference. with all the adjustments you can get them set the way you like. all small bumps are now soaked up and the others are sooo smooth. makes you alot faster through the woods, no more getting beat to death going fast. also they look bad ass on the front.

it is almost a night and day difference, traction is almost no longer a problem and turns the shee into a hill climbing machine. no more spinning the tires up a hill. front end is a little lighter but no where near a raptor of 400ex. feels more like its supposed to. and after mine it really doesn't sit that much higher but does stiffen up the tail some. do it and you'll love it. there is a review on a -2.5, do a search and you'll find all kinds of info on it. haven't found any complaints yet.

thanks for the pics, did get mine on but just to let others know i had to grind more off the bottom to make mine fit. i also took a little off the shock itself on the bottom to make sure there was no rubbing on the a-arm. took a little longer than expected but i'm sure it was worth it. rode yesterday hard (do alot of rough rocky trail riding) and there was a big difference, they are a little stiff but feel alot better than stock and once you get some speed up they are pretty smooth. going to adjust on all the setting to try to get them where i like them.