SDD

Does your Banshee have an aftermarket head on it? Even though the levels haven't changed and the smoke is a oily smoke (blue) it never hurts to find out. I would do a leak down test just incase. Do you let the bike warm up for long periods of time? It just sounds like on side is getting more fuel flow than the other which could happen if one of the reeds is cracked. Try swapping the plug wires from side to side and see if it causes the other side to smoke more. Thats just about everything I can think of causing one side to smoke more than another besides one cylinder having a looser fit.

I get DID X-rings for 60...

You said it fouls plug about every 20 mins... what do the plugs look like? Have you compared them to the other side? What color is the smoke? It doesn't take much coolant or oil to cause it to smoke quite a bit. You say you can't get a nice smooth transition with the idle adjustment so I'd look for an airleak. Does the smoke smell sweet like coolant? Did you use any oil to prelube any bearings (crank, wristpin,...) and how long have you run it since you put it back together?

If you have to cut a DID chain save the outer link plate that you grind the rivits off. When you go to put the masterlink in put this plate on top of the outer plate of the masterlink and use a C-clamp or channel locks to push the masterlink pins flush with the doubled up plates. Once the pins are flush with the two plates take the outer link plate "new tool" off and the grooves in the pins should be exposed. Just slip the clip on there and your done. Using this method will allow you to get the masterlink on there with the X-rings in place.

I'll sell you the end caps and the right upper a arm for 100 plus shipping. Do you need a tie rod as well? The a arm will not have the caps, bolts, or the grease zerk (you will need your old ones) but will have the plastic bushings still installed. Let me know if you want them.

It was out of nitro??? Dude first off you need to keep your big dumb mouth shut. I posted on that welded ball and rod question giving all the options to the guy that I know. Some people are not as skilled as you wonder boy and don't want to crack open their cases to fix something like the rod and ball. Did I not give you options on checking your shock before I stated you should rebuild it? Get a clue pole smoker... I'm here to help those that don't know quite as much about Banshees. Your here to do the same thing I guess....

Your best bet would be to contact trinity racing and ask them these questions. It sounds like a standard wiseco crank with a trinity big bore kit bored out to a 420.

I have a stock axle... let me know if you want it

First off you know there is only one rear shock. What do you mean "it doesn't come up like my 98"? If your bike is rebounding slowly try to adjust the rebound adjustment on the bottom of the shock. If it's not extending (topping out) you might have a tired spring. Does it still have compression dampening? Adjust the compression to the max and see if it make a difference. Now do the same thing with the rebound. If you don't have one of the two then you will need the shock rebuilt. If your rebound and compression setting still work just adjust the preload collar on the shock for the proper sag. Then readjust the compression and rebound. They way you post about Banshee's this info should be old news to you.

Ricky Stators are nice for the price... never seen anyone in person with quicksand. I have Procomp on mine. If you need a replacement stock arm let me know... I have the full set off mine.

I've got the arm and the end caps... how bad do you want them?

Use tapping fluid or a good oil when running the new threads. It will help the tap cut cleaner threads.

Toomey T5 and older silencers bolt right up if you want more NOISE.

Check the air screws first. Second clean the pilot jet out on the side that isn't getting as warm.

The clutch throw out arm must be turned to a certain angle before it will clear a notch in the upper case. Some guys don't want to split their motors down so they drill a hole in the cases and tap it for a screw. Since this part of the motor does not have a need for an air tight leak free seal a bolt with a little lock tite can be used to keep the oil in the cases and dirt out. Now for the color of the rod... I've said it before they are heat treated from the factory. The clutch throw out arm is not. The ball is not heat treated but should be shiny in color not flat brown. The adjustment bolt for the pressure plate might also need to be replaced. The hole through the cases trick is mainly a field repair and shouldn't be used in every instance. Vmax I don't know who the hell you are and why you keep trying to call me "Nick" has me stumped. Anyway you said tap the cover with a hammer??? Do you mean the pressure plate? Instead of tapping it with a hammer just back the adjustment screw lock nut off so the pressure plate can come off that way instead of possibly damaging another part. Fox Banshee you can buy a "pancake" bearing assembly that replaces the stock clutch adjuster which is supposed to end the problems with welding the ball on the pushrod.

Best combo price wise is any steel front and rear combo with a DID X-ring ATV chain. This will last you at least a year of severe riding with very minimal maintenance. Price wise your looking around 65 for the chain and 35 for the sprockets.

You do not need to split the cases; you can try to use a magnet or you can drill a hole through the cases on the throw out arm side. Now the question is will the ball and rod come out with just a magnet? If it doesn't do you really want to drill a hole through your cases? You really should replace any part that has been heated to the point of color change or damage (this includes the throw out arm). If your top end has been rebuilt less than 40 hours ago you can still split the cases without removing the cylinders. If you have more than 40 hours of riding time on the machine you should tear it down and inspect the bores/pistons for wear. It would be a perfectly good time to re-ring the pistons. If you need help there are plenty of people on this board that are willing to help... just give a shout out

If you'd quit buying the damn weed and killing your brain cells you would have a round housing swingarm on there as well as a new chain.

Sounds like the clutch push rod, ball, and throw out arm welded themselves together. Check your oil level and see if it's low.

With just a Toomey 2 into 1 intake with stock everything else you will need 290 main jets at sea level. You might want to just invest in a jet kit for a piped banshee and keep the main jets they provide for later when you get pipes.

Sounds like an advertisement to me

Dynos can compensate for gearing by using a correction factor. This factor comes from the final gear ratio and the sprocket ratio. Have you guys ever wondered how some dynos show a lot more HP than others.... they can always fudge the numbers to their favor.

You will need to move the little clip towards the blunt end of the needle. You are probably running rich in the midrange causing the hesitation. What needles are you using?

There are a few things you can try before you spend money on a longer swingarm. First thing is play with tire pressure (I think your over paddled). Try adjusting a few pounds of air pressure up and down. How much power are you making? You might want to try some 21-22 inch 10 paddle haulers or 9 paddle extremes. What about your gearing... what are you running front and back? There are a few cheap things you can try first.

McSkinner the stock pistons do not have 4 rings. There is a groove in each ring making it look like there are two seperate ones together.