SDD

How much would you sell the car for?

Yes you will need a small standard screw driver. You can go buy a small screw driver for pretty cheap and if the sides of the blade are too wide take a file or grinder and narrow it down some.

The cheapest axle price wise is the Ricky Stator +4 axle. I've had one on my banshee for over a year with no problems. For $200 bucks you can't beat it. I jump my banshee a lot and haven't bent it yet. The front end is way more costly to widen. If you get A-arms you have to get shocks. I am very happy with my setup and it cost me a lot less than some of the cheaper brands out there.

Before you do anything pull the right carb off and take the pilot jet out and make absolutly sure there isn't anything plugging it up. I am willing to bet money there is something in there. I've worked on at least 3 bikes that had this same exact problem. Ask Justintoxicated if you don't believe me....

Use a dremel and cut the race. Don't bother trying to rip it out as your more likely going to mess something up. Once you grind down almost all the way through the race you can normally just twist it and it should split and fall right out.

Send me an email but I can tell you that your problem is the parking brake switch. You need to unplug the connector that it hooks up to. I'm pretty free tonight if you have some time to swing it by my place. I'll PM you with my number...

I've had the setup for a year or so now. I will never ride a stock setup bike again because they really do suck that bad. I've got the Procomp a arms and a lonestar +2 swingarm. I just got back from a dune trip and for the fun of it I tested my setup out. I was riding the whoop road at the dunes at 50.7 mph with no problems. If you want a deal call up Mike Stralo in parts and tell him Paul from Sabre Springs sent you. He'll give you a deal on the stuff.

If it's a newer model you might want to tighten the parking brake if you still have it. I live in Sabre Springs if you want to swing it by my place I'll get it running.

Look around the flywheel for the arrow showing the direction of the rotation. Put the offset side of the key towards the direction of rotation.

I have a Toomey Hush kit on my Banshee. The only catch is I have FMF pipes and silencers. I modified the Powercore 2 silencers so I could attach the hush kit on there. Power wise you don't notice anything different except for a slight hesitation just off idle. Once you get past the dip in power from the hesitation it runs just like normal with no loss or gain. It does make it quiet. Just make sure you don't reach down and grab the thing just after a ride as the whole system gets pretty warm.

Cool I have the Alba Procomps on my banshee. I know of two other banshees with them as well. We all agree these arms are top notch and they have held up great. I did buy the package deal from them at a good price since I get a discount there. If you want to go with the Alba stuff call up and ask for Mike Stralo in parts. Tell him Paul from Sabre Springs sent you and he'll hook you up.

Man aren't those just the sh|t. My girlfriend might like a pair.... yeah right!

Justin you did let the bike idle for a period before you checked the compression and pulled the head. Did you rev up the bike to blow any excess fluids out? What kind of premix and ratio is in your tank currently? Jim after you ported Justin's cylinders did you spray paint the insides of the intake/transfer and exhaust ports? When I looked at Justins freshly ported cylinders it looked like these ports were painted with a grey paint. How well does this paint hold up to the gas/oil mixture flowing through the motor? If there is paint and it came off because of the gas, I think some of that carbon on top of the piston could be attributed to the paint. Any thoughts about that?

Damn dude do you know where the caps lock key is?

Dang double post

Do you want to give Jon credit for it?

The best time to go is in February or the first week or two of March. It's just starting to warm up then but not quite hot. April is when the temps start heating up.

Roofcock blue smoke is toasted rings on a 4 stroke. Two strokes burn oil remember...

How many amps can your wire feed supply? Your going to need a lot of power to weld that thick crank pin and web.

http://www.engineersedge.com/heat_treat.htm This is a website with info about Heat Treating metals, specifically steels. Just incase anyone wanted to learn a little about how to harden metal.

Boonman it was not wearing off but the color of the metal showed the heat treated ends were heated enough to anneal the shaft. On the end where the ball was it had started to dimple from contact with the ball. If you get a new throw out rod compare the color with one that has gotten hot (almost to the point of being welded together with the ball) and you will see a color difference. Do you have any welding experience boonman?

Check for air leaks on the side that burned up. Do a leak down test to make sure your not leaking any fluids through the seals.

Tighten your parking brake then adjust your idle. After you do that adjust your clutch cable.

I thought I mentioned something about replacing the throwout rod and ball in your other post about your clutch problems. Once you have heated that rod up it loses it's heat treatment/temper. The more you rev your bike with the clutch engaged the more your going to make your chances of this happening to you a possibility.

The zink in the galvanizing process is only toxic if you heat the zink to it's boiling point. I don't think you will heat the metal enough to worry about. Try doing a search on zink and I'm sure you'll find out tons more info.