2004LEBanshee

I wasn't talking about the position the cable attaches. I know the closer the cable is the the perch the easier. I was just refering to comments about the lever length not mattering. It does. Fact is if your lever was longer with your current setup it would be even easier. Do you need it to be probably not.

I guess the laws of physics cease to exsist when it comes to banshee clutch levers. A longer lever always makes something work easier. Unless the piviot point is wrong. I don't see how these would pull any easier then a fast easy pull.

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5 years on mine still 160 psi. I've had numerous trips to hatefield mccoy 70 miles a day on the trails. Numerous burnouts. I ride pretty hard. I've been told the long rods are a little more reliable then the stocker because the cylinders have a more up and down motion and less pressure on the sides of the cylinders. May or may not be true.

Such as what? I ride mostly wide open trails and do a lot of hill climbing. I really dont want an override. Im really just looking for some more power. I love the Idea of having more power and using pump gas. I often ride Hatefield McCoy and hauling gallons of race gas is a pain. My main problem is I live in NE ohio and the trails usually have some puddles so I run a K&N in an air box with no lid. Another concern is my motor now is dam near perfect in terms of smoothness. I has a crap load of low mid and top. I can lug this thing up a hill I have so much low end (for a banshee that is) I really dont want to lose that but I want a more power when I take it on the road. I figure I'm about do for a rebuild and this may be a good time to move up to the Serval.

If I switched over when I need a rebuild do I need to run a lockup and/or overide? Already running a billet basket and a FAST clutch. What else would I need to make the set up work. Curently running. 4 Mill Fast Dune port stock cyl. Noss head domes cut for 50/50 race pump VF2 reeds PWK 35's CPI inframes Timing advanced. Lightned flywheel.

I see your point however I was planning on waiting till I need a bore. Also my cylinders have a few bores left on them. The port work is great looking and I shouldnt have a problem getting 350 or more for the cylinders. I have a noss head now with cut domes. Not sure if these will work or not yet. Also are the Servals Nikasil (sp)?

Might be looking for a new project next winter. I currently have a F.A.S.T. dune port stock cylinder 4 mill. It has pwk 35's, CPI's, +4 timing, VF2's, Fast Clutch billit basket, ect. About 162 PSI. Just curious if anyone thinks switching over to a Several would be worth it. Ride mostly trails. I figure I really dont need too much to make it work with my current setup and I could get a decent amount for my stock cylinders.

Pretty much. Its what stock cranks do if there not welded. They start to get a gap in the middle by rods. There just pressed and it will the throw the timing off and other things. Eventually it goes BOOM. Look on Ebay youll see some stockers that are starting to seperate for sale. Hole shots are a big cause of it. Always weld them.

www.jetsrus.com Dirt cheap also they have about any part for any carb.

1. Yes you can test it. Just as mentioned above. 2. Yes it can test good and be bad. I have had 2 Ricky stators that tested in range but ran like crap once they warmed up.

Take the carbs apart. Soak them over night in carb cleaner. Clean them real well. Take the finest steel wool you can find and sand the slides and the inner of the carb. Put it back together. The stick from dirt and water gettin in.

No, You both basicly said similar things. Hopefully I get a chance this week to take the cover off and give it a shot. Jeff also mentioned it may be my easy pull lever.

I called him. He helped a bunch. I have tried belray, Honda, Maxium MTL, and now im going to try ATF.

Looking at it now it is probably about an 1/8" towards the stator. I can push it towards the arrow with my finger and it feels like there is about maybe 1/4" of spring play that will move towards the arrow. It may move slightly past the arrow. So your saying I should just screw the adjuster screw in till I feel some tension then back off 1/8 of a turn and not pay attention to where it is on the arrow?

I trail ride the shit out of my CPI's

I have been having trouble with my clutch since I last built my motor. A few years ago. My problem is the bike creeps forward when the clutch is pulled in. I have used the Clymer every time I installed the clutch. I have messed with the clutch lever adjustment and this is not it. When i first built the motor I installed a brand new cable, Easy pull lever, New hub, New billet basket, New plate, and a new FAST clutch. When I adjust the screw on the hub I did as the Clymer said and lined the point of the arm to the arrow on the top of the case. Each time I held the lever toward the front of the engine (according to the pic. it shows me pushing the lever toward the clutch side of the engine) or toward the arrow then thightend the screw till it stopped at the arrow mark. I then tighten the lock nut and adjust the cable at the clutch lever. I dont get why the clutch isnt fully releasing when the lever is pulled in. Is it possible this clutch like a little different setting? I thought about tightening the screw a half turn or so past where it wants me to? what do you think. I need help this makes launching in a drag race a pain since I have to hold the clutch brake and throttle and work them at the same time.

Just hold the lever towards the arrow with one hand. With the other turn the screw one way and see what direction the lever goes. Clock wise goes one direction and counter clockwise goes another.

Ricky stator sent me 2 200W stators that never worked. I had to switch to moose. No problems since.

You can just modd the stocker for free. Just drill the holes out 4 mm's so it can be turned.

Looking for a complete airbox with lid and clips also not broken. Thanks.

Not sure I agree with that. Sure there not the greatest on a motocross track and they dont get good traction on dirt but on the road there VERY hard to beat. A good low wide stance and you should be good. Also you can add all the power you want and you will hook. Set up is key.

04 Le banshees do NOT have metal flake plastic. Its plain black. Gas take cover and radiator have fake carbon fiber.