2004LEBanshee

Thats great.

Good deal. I was thinking maybe its better I stick with stock. I mean I would rather the hub splines wear out then the axle shaft splines wear out. Does that make sense. Wow I just checked the prices of that LSR shit and Im almost better off letting a G Force wear out. THere the same price.

thats what I figured. Are you guys running stockers or is there a after market one thats better.

I have a question about the part that holds the rear sproket on to the axle. I have a G force axle and a stock sproket holder. I looking at mine and I noticed it has a bit of play kinda like the splines are worn not side to side but forward and back. How long do these last. Is this because of my motor being built or is it due to the new axle. I noticed the Break rotor one is loose too. Does anyone have a solution to this. I doubt I have the only bike that has done this.

Not totally sure. Im sure you have enough oct in you fuel but I think you want to have real high compression to even run that timing. I would imagine it wouldnt be to usefull. Ive always hear +4 for stock. Someone else could probably help you more.

I run the FAST clutch. I believe the fibers are FZR1000. Springs are hughe what ever they are. I deffenently recomend it. Also pick up a easy pull lever. It will be as easy to pull as stock.

Yes fallow it exactly it will be much better then a new one and it will last much longer. Well worth it.

hopefully your right. i just swaped it out for a new one got to go to wor so I cant start it up yet.

well you could try and see. If the teeth are differnet then there it is.

I assume my problem is due to the shaft being slightly bent or the spring being worn. Is it safe to say its not internal and Ill probably be good with a new shaft and spring setup. I Just dont want to buy a new gasket, seal, oil and coolent to find out its internal. Shifting it now by hand it sounds and feels like normal. Would a bad shift fork be something that is hit and miss?

Ok I pulled to clutch cover and clutch off and noticed that the end of my shift shaft ( the part that pivots on a spring) was kinda cockeyed or stuck to one side. So I went to the stator side to try and removed my shifter lever. I went back to the other side and noticed it looked normal again. I attached the shifter lever and manually moved the bike up and down through the gears and it went fine. I dont know what the hell happened. How could this get like this also what can I do so this doesnt happen again? Should I get a whole new setup? Has anyone experienced this?

Sorry I just relize I posted my second post in the wrong post. Didnt mean to steal it from you.

Ok I pulled to clutch cover and clutch off and noticed that the end of my shift shaft ( the part that pivots on a spring) was kinda cockeyed or stuck to one side. So I went to the stator side to try and removed my shifter lever. I went back to the other side and noticed it looked normal again. I attached the shifter lever and manually moved the bike up and down through the gears and it went fine. I dont know what the hell happened. How could this get like this also what can I do so this doesnt happen again? Should I get a whole new setup? Has anyone experienced this?

Yea I figured I would try that first. I was just hopeing that someone may have had a similar situation and could tell me what it was.

I went riding today for about 5 hours with no problems at all. Just before I loaded up I was putting around not banging gears and I noticed it would only shift up one gear or down one gear. I thought it was 2nd and 3rd but when I got it stopped I found "N" with it so I guess it's 1st and 2nd. I dont hear any grinding or other wierd noise. If I shift up or down again past my one gear up or down limit, It has the same feeling of trying to shift down past first. "It's just a solid feeling". I dont get what the hell happened. I have a stock tranny with a modded shift star from Fast what was put on about 2 years ago. No problems with my tranny ever.

I tore my motor appart a few years ago and while it was out of the frame I tried to shift through the gears. It wouldnt always shift either. I think this is partialy due to the engine not turning. I couldnt find anything wrong so I just said fuck it and put it in the bike. Turned out nothing was wrong it shifted great once I got it running.

Its by the foot peg.

I noticed the other day I have a hair line crack on a weld on my frame I have a buddy whose dad is a great welder. Im going to have him repair it but I want to know what or if I should do any thing about my electrical system. What should I disconnect or take of before we do it.

I might be mistaken. When I had a close to stock setup I had a stock pilot with the air screws turned about 2- 2.5 turns out. I think stock is 25 but maybe 27.5. What ever stock is. I was 1000ft and around 60 F.

Ill try and help you out. Your compression sounds good but it depends what your elevation is and if the head was worked on. Strock is around 120 each, yours is higher so your either close or below sea level, have a good top end, or the head was milled (assuming a stock head). If it was just done about .030 over your compression is probably fine. As for the jetting its hard to tell because I dont know what the temp is outside there and I dont know what your elevation is again. I would think the hard starting is due to bad spark or (bad jetting probably this), should be plenty of compression for it to start easy. As for the carbs if its a stock or just piped motor I would leave the stock ones on. I prefer them for a lightly modded motor. But it depends on where you ride. (trails Dunes). As for a guess on starting possition of jetting ( now I dont know your temp, elevation,or intake Im assuming air box since you mentioned something about it, Ill try and get you rich to start and you can work from there) 340's main 27.5 pilot (probably 25 2 1/2 turns out will be better) needle Maybe 4th from bottom, Middle will have you running ok but it may like 4th better youll have to try and see. Im going to assume your mains will need to be dropped one or two sizes two. But better rich then lean to start.

Coming up anyone else?

Cracked magnents are easy to tell. Put it up to your ear and shake it. If you hear a faint rattle. There cracked.

I ran the TUSK for 2 years and it worked flawless. If I had a close to stock motor I would run it again. The only reason I changed to the FAST was because I turned my motor in to a ported 4 mill and thought maybe I would need it. For the money and if your only ported with a few bolt on's Id save the cash and get a tusk again. You can get like 2 for the price of the FAST. Not saying the FAST isnt great because it is I do like it. Just saying you may not need it.

thats for 1 set you need 2.

FAST, EBAY. Either way there $$$$$