2004LEBanshee

1000 ft

Sorry forgot to include I'm running shearer inframes. Seem to low on the main but I think the chop looks good and it runs like crap with a higher jet. I might. Try one smaller pilot and bump the main up.

Less Oxygen per volume the higher you go up. 4000 ft is a lot and will make less power. Need to drop the jetting as you go up. you have a lot less compression now and you probably suffer on the low end.

421 F.A.S.T. ported serval, PWK 35's, Nology coil wires. +4, K&N pods, VF3 Reeds This thing was running crappy (sputtering up top and sometimes down low) until I dropped the main from a 155 to a 152, 45 Pilot, 2.5 turns out. CEL middle clip. Runs pretty good now just seems like this is pretty lean compared to others on this site. My only problem now is I think the pilot is a little big some how. When it starts cold I dont need to hit the throttle but when warm I need to hit the throttle to get it to start. I also did a plug chop with 155 and the chop looks the same but the bike does not rev near as clean. Is it possible it just likes a leaner pilot then most or are a lot of people on here off with there jetting. Opinions.

Why not people run stock carbs on servals. Cubs in trail bikes. Race gas in motors that don't need it. I say go ahead and run it. Maybe big bores will turn out to be the next amazing pipe for the serval. If you can get it on the dyno. Maybe you can score a set of r2s to compair them for the rocket crowd that doesn't seem to want to spend any cash on dyno time. Jk

Is it an aftermarket axle? If so it maybe for a raptor instead of a banshee. They will fit but be off set a bit.

Had a stock cyl 4mill dune port by fast. Ran pretty strong. Had the crank bearings replaced and re welded after 6 years just because I was doing a new build. Just built a ported serval by fast. Id say both motors were between 70 and 80 hp.

I run a hot rods but had extra weld put to it and had the max load bearings put on it as well. I think its safe to say most the site builders can put a better weld then the factory weld on these aftermarket cranks. I think its also worth it to have them checked for true as well. I've herd of some being off from factory. Jmo. Some have luck with cheap cranks some don't.

Had similar set up a while ago and lived at 1000ft. Ran dam good with 320 main, 25 pilot, needle 4th clip. Fattys love 4th clip. Oh and any time you go beyond 2.5 turns out you need to go smaller on the pilot. Below .5 turns and you go bigger.

No need to split the case. 1. Remove shifter lever. 2. Remove clutch cover. 3. Pull out shift shaft from clutch side. 4. Use flat head screw driver to pop out seal. 5. Grease new seal with water proof grease. 6. Insert shfit shaft. 7. Install clutch cover and shifter lever. *** you may be able to do it with out pulling the clutch cover and pulling the shift shaft but It might be a pain to get the seal in and out good.**

The spit and sputter could be a lot of things.too rich on the main or needle bad spark ect. The gas dripping is either your float isn't adjusted correctly or your valve seal is bad.

I dont want to say they dont work but the best you can hope for is a little throttle response. I you were buying them to hope they made your quad faster you would be wasting your money.

1. I just sold a set of vf2 for 170 on ebay. There not half the price there very desirable from the drag crowd. 2. There not worth it. Noticable difference maybe but not totally worth 200. Jmo.

There used to be some guys who ran that 100:1 stuff. They used to mix it at 80:1 and didnt seem to have any problems. Ive never had the nerve to try it my self though. One minor concern I would have would be in the event that I ran out on a trip or something. It would be hard to find it and any other premix would have to be 32:1 or something close. This would throw you jetting off a little. I think there are enough good proven premixes out there and dont see the need to try it. IMO.

http://www.quadpartsguy.com/HeimJoints.html Switch over to a honda style. I run the heavy duty Heim joints that have female ends.

WCR promod tranny. Smoothest tranny I've used in any bike.

Some ignitions and the vapor meters require a r plug as well so its not just radios. Haha.

Put me down for hacked E-mails as well. Dam it's like once a month I get one.

Yes it comes welded but not that well. I say get it rewelded and add max load bearings

I have an old clutch which I bolted some of the fibers and steels together. Works perfect.

I just finished putting my top end together and checked the squish. Im getting about .0445 on one side of my pistons and .0455 on the other side of my pistons. I have checked the squish with a piece of solder numerous times and I get around the same with each test reading a .0001 or a few difference. Bascily I'm seeing a difference of .001 on each side of my piston. I'm aware that I need to test right above the wrist pins so I have tested all 4 side a bunch of times and I'm consistantly seeing a .001 difference. I know were talking about a small amount but im not sure if I should be concerned or not. Is this just typical of a bunch of parts having a difference and some being a little worn (rod eye, wristpin) On a side note I did do an original mock up with one cylinder and contacted my builder and it is in the range of what my builder wanted. Yea I could call him but figured someone would know.

Dude was a late shipping out to me and was a dick on the phone and real late in giving me a core refund. Haven't tested the tranny yet so I can't comment. I will say if it wasn't for a dirt cheap deal on ebay id be very pissed overall and would have never used them. Can't say I would ever deal with them again. From what I read about them and other tranny builders I don't see any reason to choose them again.

Is your lid off now? If so about 1 on main. I still think you should be about 320 on main and 4th needle jmo.

260? I would guess those are too small to begin with. What is your in take setup now? Lid, k&n? With the lid off and a k&n I don't think there is much to gain at all. I've switch to pods from an open air box and k&n and changed 1 jet size. I would think a pro flow kit with no lid could flow as much as pods. May be my next setup since I traill ride. main question is where do you ride and how.

If you can weld just cut off the tabs from the frame. Installl the air box. Match the tab to the new location and weld them back in place. Just like stock and should take 15min.