2004LEBanshee

If your going to get it ported just find the best guy. I cant say I would go with someone just cause they put boost ports in. Its not really that special. As for cubs anyone who knows anything can spot them so its not really a sleeper at all. If the cant spot them chances are you didnt have to go sleeper at all you could just lie.

You could even look into the 12 port big bore cylinders that vitos just came out with. There supposed to be stock look alikes.

A few years back I purchased a set of real heavy duty Tie rods that came thie nice Heim joints on them. They were off ebay and looked like the ones that Ricky stator used to sell. long story short I wrecked the bike and I need new Joints. I have looked all over including rickey stator and nobody seem to sell them. Any one know where I can just get them since my rods are real strong and have no problems? Will the grease able ones that everone else is selling fit if I cant find them. Not sure if there universal or not.

remove cotter pin. losen bolt. pretty staight forward.

Personally I dont get what the problem is here. The banshee motor makes a dam strong motor for flat track. My motor has enough lowend. Im not sure what kinda track you run but you shouldnt be in the low end very much anyhow. Get a 4 mill, Dune port, lighten the flywheel, raise compression, gear and jet it right and your done. Widen, lower it, and install an over ride if you can afford it.

about 4 MM.

I used to run it. Its good stuff ran 80wt. I switched to honda HP 80. Same stuff but cheaper. Didnt see the sense in paying more.

no way the old school gold is in!!!!

I would use blue my self. If it happens again use red. I rarely use red on my banshee. Mixture of junk metal and screw weld isnt good.

Castor 927 40:1 and belray 80wt gear or Honda ATF 80wt. Honda is cheaper so im starting to run that.

Well I believe either way your going with a wiesco. I believe wiesco makes hotrods. I would deff get a long rod. Also have it welded and get the domes cut for the stroke. Your better off not running a spacer. Its one more place for an air leak. Also someone looking at your engine cant tell, so you can lie.

bump for a nice clean bike.

I have a strap wrench and converting a old clutch to a tool it the best. I love this. I also bought the engine lock tool from rocky mountain. Its plastic and goes in were the spark plug is and holds the engine. Love it.

You should always run at least 93 like said. Running hot is a sign of lean and could be a sign of too much timing. You need to test your compression. You have too many variables for someone to guess. Things that can effect your octain requirements are. Elavation, porting, head mod, gaskets, timing, pistons , probably others but pipes and carbs do not. So since you have most of those you really need to test it to know for sure.

Any steel sproket is good. I run tusk there cheep. I used to run a did x ring gold chain and I now run a tusk o ring and they last the same just cheaper. Both are good.

I bought a moose it looks slightly different then rickys and Its been perfect since Ive had it. I went through 3 rickys stators. There junk.

Ive been told that a long rod 4 mill is more reliable then a stock and 4 mill standard rod because of the angles of the piston travel. But who knows.

Who knows mine was 110 stock for 4 years that I rode it and it never went down and was always on of the fastest stock bikes around. If you need a top end at 40 hrs. Your dont warm your bike up right, its jeted or mixed wrong, or it was build poorly. 40hrs is nothing. my new 4 mill is at 160 for 3 years now and well over 100hrs.

I assume you mean when there appart for a re build? There was a guy who took them to some hot engine wash for diesel trucks and they came out like new. I dont remeber what it was but I was very impressed.

Yea I wouldnt bother with jb weld when you can get a new hub from alba for $64. Im going to get a new on but when I look at in installed from the side and move it around. It looks like the hub is just slightly bigger then the axle shaft. Hell even my brake rotor hub is loose too. I could see my motor wearing on a sproket hub but a brake hub.

I have had a G force axle for a year or so and I remember my sproket hub being loose before but now it seems to be a little looser. I can turn the sproket a little bit forward and back. Not side to side like the nut is loose. I figureed i probably have worn splines on the hub but I have looked it over closely and neither the hub or axle look like they have bad splines. When I get real close to it it almost looks like my hub is slightly larger and that is why it is loose. I want to buy a new hub but there a little pricey and I dont want to waste money on it if a new one is going to be the same. So does anyone else have one that is like this or are my splines worn and I just cant tell by looking at it. I just wanted to check because I think it may be due to the cheapness of this axle. Hell my chrome falls off when I pressure wash it. Should have kept the dura blue I think.

I totally thought it looked like a black box for a plane too. Actually it should stay orange there called black boxes but there acutally orange. That is huge almost like a anti aircraft weapon. I bet it rips though. Good work on the fram looks good.

Just curious who does this and how often. I last did my top end 3 years ago and the compression is great still. I always hear dirt bike ridders talking about re ringing. Ive never had a dirt bike so im not sure if this is just commen with them. Rarely do I hear banshee riders talk about just throwning new rings on and going. So my question is does enyone here just re ring there pistions. If so how often and why?

Correct me if im wrong its been awhile since I installed mine but isnt there a part that threds on. Like the valve is 2 pieces. I believe I also used teflon tape on the threads of that part. How big did you cut up the tank to install it? maybe the whole is too big? I would try cylicone.

I dont know if it helped but mine has never leaked. When I installed it I just used Hi temp cylicone on it with the rubber seal. Yea I didnt need hi temp buts thats all I had.