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TRAITOR!!!!! :biggrin:

its up to him, the t-5's are in pretty good condition (just got the banshee they are on), dont think they have any dents, and any rust that is on them (little, mainly just on stinger tubes, and on inside side of pipes (common areas)) I'll work off with my buffing wheel and such before I would send them out to anyone I'll go out to the garage and check out for dents and take pics if you guys are interested

I have a set of T-5's that I'll trade you with some cash, or maybe some different aftermarket if you are looking?

Is dan as busy as he used to be? I know for a while he was so swamped from people going to him on here, that he couldnt take any more orders, there was like a 6 month backorder. He stopped posting on here after he got into an argument with a couple asses that thought they knew their shit. He's a great guy and does awesome port work. Was gonna go with him, but got a good deal on a portjob from another familiar face that did great work as well. I would never buy all new again. Even if its stuff you dont like and not your riding style, you can sell off the used parts for a good bit of money and buy the ones you need to build your application (thats if you're buying a whole bike) As far as buying parts goes, it depends what it is. Stuff like, a coolhead, air filter, tires, I probably would only buy new. The coolhead can warp if its not installed and removed correctly, and tires are never as nice as when they are new. And then pipes, reedcages, carbs, and so forth I would buy used.

pm me what your willing to pay for one

looking to get the elka rear shock and linkage setup, but the prices I've been finding for the setup are pretty crazy, was looking if anyone knows someone that could get me a good dealer type price on a setup. Their probably arent that many people out their running the setup, and wanted to try it out and see how good it really is.

personally, I'd try to get them both, and make a good bike out of it. They are very very rare bikes

F him, he doesnt deserve a second chance, he's tried to sell 2 things on here now. I asked him a reasonable question and he emails me a nasty email. He's got 21 posts now, 99% of them being in posts he's trying to sell stuff Go pawn your shit on ebay fool

If you bought a brand new banshee, and bought all those parts, it'd probably be somewhere in that range.....maybeeeee You could build a much nicer banshee, with more engine work done to it, and it'd be built the way you want it for that much.

too many questions left with that.....is that where the banshee ended up? Obviously he took the corner to quick, and the tires he had on it didnt help on the street. I'm guessing he probably hit his head on something and thats what killed him, probably no helmet. It's sad that its a banshee, and it's sad for the responsible atv community

lol........anddddd punt I think the problems you were remembering were the g-force clip lock you couldnt get a wrench or something on it and install the clip, but they supposedly fixed that problem if I remember correctly but then again.....I could be talking out my ass like usual

yeah, do the vicegrip thing, or just remove the pipe, but dont hammer on the threads, you'll screw them up. I have a brass punch that I use to bang everything out with anymore, I've galled to many threads, even having the nut on doesnt help with this cheap ass yamaha metal.

that is a really good deal and I actually need both. I could probably run engine ice, 2 radiators, and a billet impellar and still run hot on some of the crap we run on. Damn switchback 5 minute hillclimbs kill you every time

sent you a pm, see if you can find the title as well Thanks

do you run rocky conditions at all? I run 23's in the front and 21's and 22's in the back (realtors are the 22's when I need them) I get great ground clearance with them and running anything smaller than a 23 in the front makes me sit up on my tank with the 22's. If you have to go over anything on the trails, 23's are nice to have. Here's 2 pics you can get a feel. With the 23's up front and the 21's in the back: notice the ground clearance: by the way, bike is incredibly stable, with widened front, and stock axle, doesnt feel like its tall at all

I've got the 15" rally rims on the burban, the outer rings are all banged up on them though . Been looking to get some nice looking rings for them and keeping them. Something about them is just cool. You cant find a race shop that does trans work on 80's style trans am's? My buddy has his stock tranny, with all racing internals (only cost like a little over a grand I believe) in his GTA and he's got his supercharged and pretty worked and the tranny holds up fine. I think I'm gonna go with 33's and a 4 inch lift. The 35's with a 6 inch look good, but with my girl driving it all the time, and how much the 35's fill out the wheel well, The 33's should still tuck inside it pretty good.

are you running the dual stabilizer or the single stabilizer? Do you think I can get away with running 33's with a 4 inch lift? I personally dont have a problem running a bigger lift, but its my girl's truck and she's only 5' 2". Wonder how it'd look and how hard it would be to get in with some nice step bars on the side of it with a 6 inch lift. Got any pics of your burb? I'd like to eventually get an airbag setup for all 4 corners, and that would get rid of the whole get in the truck thing. It's not actually ever gonna see off the road unless she ends up in a ditch in the snow. I'm getting a jeep to offroad with for that. I just need something for the next couple years because the springs all the way around are completely shot from being overloaded....and from 89. Wanna get back into doing stereo stuff and the burb is a big platform to implement the stereo I have had sitting in a box for the last 5 years. Gonna end up glassing the whole interior, shaving the handles and tail lights.....dont know what I'll end up doing with the tailgate, might convert to electrically opening barn doors. So yeah....I got plans for it.....but for right now all it needs is a friggin stabilizer, a lift, and some bigger tires (the tires are barely rated for the truck and are the stock size that makes them look like trailer tires on that massive body)

Right now its just a stock suspension 89, but over this winter its going to get a 2-4" lift and some 33's or 35's. Right now the person that owned it before me had the shop put on the cheapest, weakest one they could get and its just not holding the way I want it to. Looking for something that can keep up with this big ol lead slug goin down the road.

See, I've talked to some people that have had 4mill's that ride a lot of tight technical trails (red ore) for one I believe, and the 4mill just got to be to much in the woods. Kind of like that 520 they built for supermoto that was in dirtwheels was to much. I mean, I could probably get away with 30mm carbs on the 4 mill, but I dont want to go any bigger than that. I have a 5.5 gallon tank already, and their has been days where I've carried 2 extra gallons on my back and have needed it. We ride down at Hatfield-McCoy with a bunch of 4 strokes with IMS tanks, and they carry extra gas as well and we'll go out all day. The one system has a gas station at the trailhead opposite of the one we park, but other systems have one trailhead, and to get all the way out and all the way back, takes me more than 5 gallons.

thanks for all the help guys, it got me thinking about it more and everything is making sense now. I believe the bore on those cylinders is a .03 overbore, but not positive on it. I was all backwards on the longrod/stroke/what you have to do to make it work. I was to busy thinking of what to do to not have to change the portwork on the cylinders, and realize the rod will effect where it is in the cylinder as well. Still dont know what I'm gonna do yet, as far as the 795's or just run it with a stock rod crank. I've got a month to think about it

Dont know what I should do, I was going to go with a stroker long rod, but dont think I'm going to need that much power, and I think I might starve the engine a little bit on fuel trying to conserve for really long riding conditions. So I've decided to go with a stock stroke long rod, I'll get an increase in torque and an increase in longevity correct? Right now I've got a top end that has a woods port with a little pull added on the top end, and it was bored to match the wiseco pro lites that I have with it. Here's the situation, to get away from using cut domes, I could use 795 series pistons correct? But boring is done to the thousandths and wiseco only measures to the hundredths. How close do you think the bore would be if I just ordered the same size 795 series pistons? Or do you think it would just be cheaper to go with some cut domes? I have a noss head with 17cc and 19cc domes, can I just get them sent out to get cut?, or do I have to get different domes altogether? Gonna start this build from the ground up soon, and want to have everything situated before I dive in.

you could have the cases port matched to your top end if you want to, will give a little cleaner transfer flow. was gonna ask about my situation, but I think I'll start my on post. Good luck with your build man.....I'm starting on mine as soon as my wedding is over (nov 3rd)

a stainless line WILL stop you in a shorter distance than a rubber line that swells, plain and simple. Think of it this way, say you are in your car, and a light turns yellow on you, and you have to apply your brakes kind of hard, but not slamming on them, you are varying the pressure going through the line. If you come to the same light, and hit your brakes as hard as you can, and the lines flex, the same thing is happening to a degree, and your stopping distance is affected. If you come to the same light with stainless lines, and hit your brakes as hard as you can, your calipers will receive full clamping pressure and stop the vehicle quicker. There are lots of variables outside of this including tire slippage, rotor heating and glazing, fluid temperatures and much more, but given that their would be no tire slippage, and the brake system can keep up and react uniformly with the only change being between the stainless lines, and a swelling rubber line, the stainless line WILL stop you in a shorter distance. And its not a fight against rubber and steel really, because you can build a 3 inch thick rubber line that wont flex either, but we are talking about a shitty ass yamaha rubber line thats about a 1/16th of an inch thicker than a balloon lining.

I havent ridden my banshee in 2 years now, and will never sell it. I've dumped a ton of money into it making it a woods machine. I've contemplated selling it a couple times to buy a 250R chassis banshee, but that would be the only reason whatsoever I'd sell the banshee, and even then I think I might regret it. I've ridden plenty of 250R's and they just seem like these tiny little things under you. Main reason I'll never sell the banshee, even though it'll be 2 1/2 years since I've ridden it, is that I could jump on it for 2 minutes, crack into the powerband a few times, and all stress and life worries disappear with a shit eatin grin.

I've got an arctic cat thundercat.....and its a 1000cc's......but its not a 4wheeler.......but it does have somewhere around 180 hp (going by engine builders specs)