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nothing wrong with the carbs at all, it comes with some extra jets that I have, no cable though, need it for my new carbs. Lots of interest but no solid deals yet.

ttt

ttt

I have some extra jets I found to go with the carbs if anyone is interested

Its powdercoated silver, and its a t-dub racing swingarm. It ended up not coming with the pinch bolts, go figure that would happen. And then read into tony's at tdub in the general discussion and you can figure out why none ever got sent to me. All they are is 2 washers a bolt and a nut. Lots of guys use allen key bolts so they dont get marred while riding. It doesnt come with mounting tabs for a skidplate, so I was going to grind down the powdercoat right where tabs needed to be and make and weld on some of my own, and then get another coat of powdercoat on it, or just use a little spray in that area. Shipping shouldnt be to incredibly bad to canada, pm me your address and I should be able to get you an exact price. I'd go through the post office so you wouldnt have any border fees or anything

heres a pic of the carbs:

brand new, never ran, going with a different rear setup. Only thing it needs is the cinch bolts to hold the carrier in. carrier comes with grease zerk fitting installed. Have more pictures if needed. 400 + shipping from 19446

Here's my beast, right now she's a work in progress though, more of a woods bike than on the track. I'll try to get some pics as shee sits now. +3 arms with inset rims and elka quad rate shocks in the front with a longtravel elka shock and linkage for the rear. gonna finally get my ported/polished top end on it as well.

High bars are a good thing in the trails especially if you are riding hard and standing most of the time, the lower the bar the more you are leaning over, just dont go to high or you wont be able to pull up to get over stuff. I'm running a trail tech computer oversized clamp with longhorn hi bend bars

exactly, if you get the 2005, you are going to end up with a lot of stock parts laying around that noone wants. If you get the one with pipes and everything else, even if its not what you want, you can pull them off and sell them and recoop some of your money. Unless the banshee with the mods is beat to hell, I'd go with that. Only reason I bought a brand new banshee was because I'm going to own it for the rest of my life, and I know every little bump its hit along the way. The ones you are looking at are both used, so go with the one that is going to benefit your pocket the best. The only thing the 2005 has over the 2000 is it has a brake light.

set of 30 mm Mikuni round slides, $150 + shipping Will have pictures up later today or tomorrow

Is he selling stuff? Where at?

honda makes a 2 stroke oil that is non synthetic, it is best to use because it will help seat the rings better. Start her up, vary throttle not abover 1/4 throttle for 15 minutes or so (until jugs get pretty warm), and then let it cool. Start again and vary throttle 1/4 to 1/2 throttle for another 15 minutes (you'll feel as far as engine wants to go in rpm band, dont push it past where it wants to go), let it cool Check torque on head and cylinders start and let warm up, and then ride in 1st gear varying throttle and again dont push engine to far, for 15 minutes, and then let cool start and let warm up, ride around 1st and 2nd gear, pushing engine as far as it wants to go (powerband should start coming on a little) for about 30 minutes, let cool. Check torque again Keep riding for 30-45 minutes or so in cycles until engine is really coming on. You'll go through about 5 gallons of gas before engine completely breaks in, then switch to the 2 stroke oil you want to use. Main thing you want to remember is to vary your throttle and not keep it constant for a period of time when your first starting out. I've always gotten good strong engines from doing it this way.

Get the one with the mods, for the price difference you could completely rebuild the engine and still be way ahead of the game. Compression test is a good way to check how the engine looks on the inside, its a 2000, and has 2 seasons on the top end. It's probably got decent bore left unless the engine got really hurt when it went the first time. You could probably ask what bore its on and the owner would know. Grab the tops of the front tires and pull on them to check the wheel bearings and bushing play in the aarms. Stand on it and rock side to side on the pegs and look for play in the rear axle bearings. Make sure lights work, feel for clutch slipping coming up through rpm band. Look at how the sprocket teeth look, and just overall condition of the shee. You can usually tell within a glance if a quad was taken care of or not. all in all, even if stuff is wrong with the 2000, go with that, and negotiate on price if you find stuff that needs to be fixed. With the mods, even if they arent what you are looking for to have, you can sell them for a lot more than what you could sell a stock piece for.

get yourself a gas powered rc truck. Theres as many add ons as a banshee, and just as addictive Their might be a track for them around your way as well. They are a good time if you can get a couple people together with them.

I miss Meat_Head :ermm:

they make heated gloves that you put a battery in. When its cold, and slush is hitting the gloves, it makes for some nasty conditions. I've had my gloves so frozen that I literally couldnt take my hands off the handlebars. I could use 2 fingers 2 pull in my clutch, one for my brake, and my thumb for my throttle, everything else was frozen solid. My buddy had to pry my hands off because I couldnt budge them. That was after a full gas tank of road riding in the snow though, and it was like 6 degrees out

good luck to you with it, glad to see its gonna be in good hands, its a beautiful chassis that will take anything you throw at it

is the crank true and welded? what kind of stator is that?

chalk me up for one as well, where do I send the loot too?

duplicolor sells a paint stripper you can get at wal-mart. I think I found it by the automotive paint. Try that, its taken everything to the metal I've ever sprayed it on. Clutch covers, jugs, etc.

the difference between stock and getting a set of boyeson dual stage epoxy reeds is night and day. If you ride tight trails and such, you'll notice it big time. It will increase your throttle response drastically, and your shee will do what you want it to, when you want it to. As far as the vforce's go, going from a aftermarket boyeson reed to the vforce, I did notice a little bit of difference, but it wasnt drastic. I'm sure when I start running my bigger carbs, I'd feel a bigger difference if I made the jump after I got the carbs. I would go with reeds, timing plate (+4), coolhead, and if you ride in muddy/dirty conditions a pro design foam filter kit and remove the air box lid (they make a good outerwears cover for the boxes now), or run a K&N filter if your in sandy/less dirty type environments. The power difference of removing the lid is quite a bit, a good 4-6 jet sizes sometimes. When it comes time to do a rebuild eventually, go with some porting and carbs, and inbetween now and then, maybe get some a-arms, shocks, tires, some bling, and theres a million other little things that help. Just depends how far you want to go. The sky is the limit. I'm building mine right now to go over anything, climb anything, take a beating and keep going, and making it reliable as hell.

I'm running a set of longhorn bars, and an oversized trail tech computer clamp and the only thing I had to do was add a couple washers to the steering stem mount to move the steering stem forward a tiny bit. Works great and my bars arent way up in the air.

2 pulleys is always better than one :cool: will hopefully be getting a 2003 hd sooner than later myself

how many ft lbs is it?