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basically, for toe in or toe out (front in or front out) you find a good center point on the tire (middle tread is always good) but you want to be able to measure from the same point in the front of the tire as the back of the tire. Toe in will give you better turning ability, and toe out will give you better stability at higher speeds. I run mine with a little bit of toe in. An inch or so, but dont hold me to an exact measurement, I'm not sure of that.

Looking at getting the rear setup buttoned down, and the only place I can find the setup is on ebay, any shops on here elka dealers or know of a good place to get hooked up with the setup? Thanks

elka longtravel shock and wishbone setup, and getting my crank rebuilt. I'm also getting a brand new f-250 quad cab, 5.4L, automatic with captains chairs all the way around. Built it online for 32 grand but after the 20% discount I get, 3500 in rebates, 3000 in trade in, 5000 in tax return, and a couple grand I have set aside for it, I should only have to get a 10-12 grand loan. Oh yeah, its for the wife

wal-mart has a spray on paint stripper that worked really well on my jugs, dupli color makes it I think. Maybe you'd have better luck with that. For the most part I could just hold the jugs under water and it would come off with little pressure.

If I remember correctly, in the 8-10+ years that I've been a part of this site, I've probably only noticed a thread like this once, maybe twice before. I'll call you out on it dale, what words would you use in the search box to do a search before you would make a post like that? And then when you figure out what words to use, how many topics come up? Just wondering is all

dude, plain and simple, some of us need oversized radiators. Try climbing a switchback hillclimb in 1st and second gear on and off the throttle for 10-15 minutes sometimes, going down the other side of the mountain, and then doing it all over again. Or beat the crap out of it on a small circle track at your buddies trying to play catch the leader being 3rd gear pinned powersliding the whole thing. The banshee engine produces a lot of heat with a little radiator to dissipate it.

I sent you money for the carbs, sent you a pm and you said you'd check your mail since you were in utah to see if you got it. Let me know whats up? Thanks

I dont agree :biggrin:

I also have a flywheel and a coil off a 2001

you just washed your bike, it was below freezing, and you were moving through the air. That little bit of residual water froze your throttle cable, or your slides in the carb body. How well oiled is the cable? Thats more likely the culprit. Just dont rip your bike after you wash it, in the freezing

I've got one that I'll ship to you. It's a -2, powdercoated silver and comes with the carrier (with grease zerk) All brand new, never ran. I'm going with a LT setup and the swingarm is gonna be to short. $400US + shipping, I'll get some pictures up for you over the weekend if you're interested

they are dune ported cylinders, which means the exhaust port was most likely opened (raised). They will give you more top end, but opening the exhaust will kill your low end and thats where you are getting your bogging from. Playing around with the pilot and needle will help some, but compared to stock cylinders, you'll never have that low end pull you are used to having. Dune cylinders are more of a "on the pipe" type cylinder (in powerband) I forget what size pilots you are running but with out the air box lid on, I'm running 30 pilots, with the lid on, I'd run 27.5's. You might get a little better response back. What reeds are you running? Boyeson dual stage epoxy reeds will give you some better response over stock, and if you can afford it, some vforce are always a nice upgrade. As far as your floats go, the little needle piece that seals off the fuel from coming in gets wear marks in it, and sometimes stops sealing, even though measurements are correct. Might want to try getting new ones and see if it stops. They arent that expensive I think.

also, make sure that new stator (not flywheel) is not bad. I've seen new ones like yours not work out of the box a few times on here, and it did exactly what yours did. with the intermittant spark, and then nothing.

hope everything gets up and running quickly Thats why I have one of these: http://www.kohlerpower.com/residential/det...p;prodnum=52161

have you had this bogging issue since you put the cylinders on? And what exactly do you mean by that in 1st and 2nd gear it bogs? Is it just bogging in the gears or bogging in the low rpm range all together? If you rev it and drop the clutch in first and keep the rpms up will it stay in powerband? Does firehead know the measurement on the exhaust port? What complete engine setup was he running with it?

pain in the ass, but try putting the stator back on the other shee and see if it runs. Who did you get the stator from? Same problem happened on here not to long ago and the brand new stator went bad

you try starting it without the filter/airbox lid on? try taking your gas cap off? are your plugs getting soaked? Timing?

at least you saved 30% :biggrin:

I always thought they should make one that smells like race gas....at least when you cant afford the race gas.....you can still smell like you can

you're not going to find a light 6 ply tire, only difference in weight is going to be the weight of the lugs. I bought some mudsharks and they are probably the best all around tire I've run so far. I've run holeshots and they hook at first, but as soon as you wear the edge off them, they just want to spin (unless you shorten your swingarm) The mudsharks hook much harder, they are a pretty soft rubber so they wear a little quicker, but you'll get good traction until they are beat. First time I had them out up in hazleton, I got a little hole in the sidewall, and was like great.....they are gonna get holes left and right. I've beat the crap out of them against rocks since then, and they are now beat, and they've survived. I think they are 4 ply, and they are decently light. Much lighter than my realtors. I'll definitely be getting another set. they are very controlled in their sliding as well, and seem to have traction no matter which way your back end is sliding. The tread design makes a lot of sense on them.

if ring spins it is because bore/piston clearance is to great. Either from bad bore job (bore should be to the .ooo (thousandths), or from wear Go with wiseco, micrometer bore, and then buy pistons for application, then bore after pistons are micrometered

everything you have sounds good, looks like your doing some research. As far as your pipe selection goes though, think long and hard what kind of pipe you want, because they all act differently. What type of riding do you do? That is the number one factor. How soon do you want to get riding again/can you save a couple extra hundred and get a port job? Here's my opinion since you have the top end apart right now cool head/shaved stock head (depending if you wanna save some money for porting) reeds: vforce or if you wanna save some money, some dual stage epoxy boyesons are a good alternative go with regular wisecos, we've heard a lot of bad things in the last years about the vito's pistons breaking skirts and such get a timing plate and a flywheel puller (ricky stator has the plates for pretty cheap, rmatv has the pullers for cheap, buy 2, and buy some pb blaster) and advance to +4 research research research and ask lots of questions about the pipe you want to go with. What kind of riding do you mainly do? You can get a good used set for a really good price around these parts. If you already have the dg's stick with them for now unless they are completely wrong for your application. I would definitely go and get some porting done since you have it apart right now

did you reconnect the choke tube between the 2 carbs? Easy miss, easy fix, will give you problems for hours until you find it sitting between the lugs of your tire

It's the hubs, probably the old style (I think they created a new style that dont come loose anymore) It's a known problem of LSR hubs, they just dont stay tight. I've seen it on here a few times, my buddies 250R had the same problem till he went to another hub. You can try the loc tite, my buddy with the 250R did, but they still kept coming loose. I forget if its the old hubs that are good, or the new ones. I think they changed something to help or hurt. Good luck

Look into getting a nice rz350 ported top end. You can open up the exhaust pretty big and still have good low end because of the powervalves. Have a ton of top end, plus the bottom end still. Are you running gncc type racing or is it more motocross/supercross? Anything you need help with in getting over to Ireland, give me a message and I'll see what I can do. I'll ship anything over to you without a problem, if the company wont ship worldwide, just get it shipped to my place and I'll ship it to you, as long as you pay for the shipping. Been on here for a while and have seen how a lot of company's wont ship out of the U.S., which I think is pretty crappy, just looking to help a fellow hq'er out.