.

If steel brake lines dont give you better stopping power, then how come I went from stopping to being able to do endo's with just changing the brake lines......nothing else? I got a good deal on them, and I was getting +2's soon....swapped them out and could stop a ton quicker and harder.

hey sredish, long time no see man! You still got your banshee? I remember you were thinking about getting it back together as well. Sorry to get off topic a little bit, but do you remember who made the swingarm you sold me with the flames cut into the carrier area? I'm still going with that his setup is probably a decent one.....he just needs to practice his launches for a little bit to get out of the hole a lot better......I think he's falling out of the pipe

the difference between rubber lines and steel lines is huge. Then go from there if you want more

I dont think it has much to do with your engine setup, you should be alright with all that you have from what I've seen. You need to learn to slip the clutch and keep it in the pipe until you can get it going. Can you rev it and drop the clutch and just spin the tires? If you can just practice launches for a couple hours until you can slip that clutch and get your bike off the line. You could always add a paddle as well and just keep dropping the clutch until you find the right combination

like the others said, your stop is bent a little. It is fine when you are riding until you hit something, than it has enough force to pop into behind the stop. Bang it back and reinforce it. I actually took a little bit off the sides of my bracket. I noticed when it first bent that it turned a lot better, because it was taking longer to hit the stop, then I hit another little tree and bent it more, so I had to bend it back and weld it. After I didnt have that movement anymore, so I took a little off the sides and I've hit stuff since then and it still doesnt lock on me......I do however need a steering stablizer so I dont end up breaking my thumb on my throttle.

I had +2's with burgards and works shocks all the way around and would hit a 25 ft double we have at my buddies and they work fine. Dont know how strong the arms are, but they are by armadillo and they make a pretty tough product. Definitely better than stock. It's nice that they make a guard for them as well. It'll strengthen that bottom a-arm in case you hit anything, and help slide over rocks and stuff. Dont worry about tight trails at all either, you'll get used to the extra width, and you'll feel a lot more stable. I still run a stock axle and it helps out big time with my turning radius.

I would say you have to much oil in your filter maybe? Is your truck fuel injected? It will accomodate for air fuel mixture. try cleaning the filter again and putting less oil on it this time and see if it runs better. Personally I dont like K&N's, they've never lived up to their name for me. I stick with the foam for in the dirt. I just usually run a think line of oil along each ridge and let it sit and disperse into the whole filter, and then go back and check every valley to make sure that it penetrated all the way to the valley.

I compare that abhorration to the Wii video game system. If you wanna play video games, sit down and play video games. If you want to excercise, go out and play or to the gym. I dont want to jump around like a fool when I'm playing video games. If you wanna ride a jet ski....jump on a jet ski, if you wanna ride 4wheeler, jump on a 4wheeler. What do you do when you get dirt all up in that jet ski engine....I'm sure thats good for it. And like whats previously mentioned.....first time that thing hits a rock and cracks the bottom, and you dont notice it....take it out into the water, and next thing you know, you have a pretty expensive anchor.

I got a set for sale, already boxed up and ready to go from someone wanting to trade a dyna ignition for it. Give me a reasonable price for it and its yours. It's off an 01 running engine that dude cracked the bottom case and sold the whole shee to me. I forget what year they changed the plug style 96 or somethin like that.

I can guarantee you, you got the filter wet and thats why its running like crap. They make carb covers that you can put over the end of the carbs that will prevent water getting in there. When you go to wash your banshee I'd take the filters off, and get some baggies and rubberbands and cover the carbs up, and go to town. Or just get big enough bags to cover the whole filter

your postal office should ship it, worst case scenario, ups will ship it as well

are you talking about the little piece that goes around the tank cap, or the bigger pieces that cover the sides with the vents in them? If you are looking for the bigger pieces, just get them from the dealership. The whole setup with the foam pieces is like 25 bucks

if its fouling plugs, you probably arent getting enough air, or letting enough air out. (if its jetted correctly) Did you get the air filter wet? Try taking the air filter off and running the bike (make sure their is no debris to get into the carbs) and see if it runs better. You could of got your exhaust packing wet as well.

first off, I'm stilling waiting for proof that you are a reputable seller. Obviously by what you've posted so far, you arent. Second of all, I really think its funny how you're 17, have a stock piped banshee that still has the oil injector attached and thats what you want. Hell, my 6 year old nephew at least has a pipe and a carb on his blaster. and furthermore.....take a little more time on your posts so people can atleast halfway understand them.

go with poly, less chance of it snapping right through the metal into your case, which I've seen happen on 2 bikes.

its gonna take some riding time to get some color on those plugs to just look at them. If you are using new plugs do a plug chop. Just a note, I usually ride around for an hour or so, never hitting wot before doing a run just to look at the color. I get the jetting close depending on the mods, and then go from there.

hey fmf.....just to let you know.....there's been a lot of people that come this way that have ripped people off in the past. Mainly newbies that sell fake shit to other newbies that jump at a deal. If you were smart you would have dealt with the situation maturely, maybe given your ebay listing name to show your feedback, written back on here where you were from, and said something along the lines of if you dont trust me, here's my phone number, and you can call me and we can discuss the sale. Instead you send me this message: i just got this fucking web site so calm the fuck down fuck you dick lickin son of a bitch I was thinking about buying the psp off of you.....but after a message like that, I wouldnt buy it off you if you were selling it for 50 bucks.

do you know who makes this swingarm? I've got a -2 I'm trying to sell with carrier, but I dont know who makes it?

is it not running on the right side at idle and stuff, and then coming in but running like crap when you rev it?

It's your parking brake. Try wiggling the cable down at the rear brake, and playing with it up at the clutch. Then ditch it.

do you have an aftermarket air filter setup? The stock setup the filter is held in place by the lid.

where do you live and how can we trust you with one post?

I've never seen a port job without at least a clean up job on the intake, I would say they are stock

dude, dont pay to have it done, once you have that bead broken, you can just pull them off the outside of the rim, put the new one on, put the ring back on, and pump it back up with air to seat the bead on the one side (soapy water on bead) For what it would cost to break that bead, you could buy a nac's bead breaker or a tire changer from harbor freight. Personally I like the bead breaker from nac's. It's portable and takes up no room. The harbor freight one makes it easier to get it over the rim on regular rims, and you dont have to use tire spoons to get them off and on......but you have hipers so you dont need that.

Ricky stator sells an adjustable plate or you can go with ebay. You'll have to get the flywheel removal tool as well. RMATV sells them for real cheap and they work well. Dont worry about different carbs until you get porting done. I'm not a big fan of the 2 into 1's for in the woods. Lots of testing has been done, especially with LRD pipes and woods porting and the taperbored 28mm twin carb setup is what you'll want to run. If you do want to run a 2 into 1 setup, buy a kit. save up and get a pro design aftermarket foam setup and ditch the airbox lid, and get one of those covers instead of the lid. go with the dual stage reeds, I stayed with the epoxy reed, they seem to flex better. on a side note, if you want a hard powerband, stay away from the LRD's. They pull forever (longer than t5's), but they dont really have a powerband hit. It is a very broad range that has a ton of torque before it starts really ripping. It's an awesome pipe for the woods because it isnt an abrupt hit that will throw you somewhere you dont want to go. If you want that lightswitch feel still, I'd go with another pipe. I actually plan on buying a shitty ass set of pipes one day, just to throw on now and again to satisfy that lightswitch hit that is so addicting