bigboybanshee

I used to hold it WOT through shifts but would slip the clutch just a little bit to help it go in the next gear....then I bought an override :biggrin:

Depends on what you mean by oily....oil on your plug could be a blown crank seal If you're just rich, then go down on your jets. But if you have oil on your plugs, you might want to check your crankcase pressure before going too far in trying to jet it.

BR8ES plugs are fine. If your plugs are black then you are too rich. Which plug did you have oil on?

That's the first thing that came to mind for me...my friend running CPI out of frames (small bore) w/ his stock cylinder setup has 34PJ's w/ 160 mains in it, runs excellent. We are around sea level.

I have a pair of front shocks and a rear shock I could sell you cheap. They're used and stock but in decent shape. Much better than blown shocks, lol

To me, this is the best and easiest method http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...mp;hl=polishing

Congratulations!!!!!! :beer: Ultrasounds now are so detailed compared to what they used to be; it's amazing what all you can see.

My T5's had round o-rings, I wasn't aware there was a square o-ring....

At 150psi, you should have no problems at all with 93 octane. You could bump your timing to +4 and still be fine with pump gas :thumbsup:

Yep, stock hardware should work fine...27.5 pilot and 280 mains gave me the best results. I'm at the same elevation as you are, and had the same mods back in the day. I ran the stock needles at the 4th clip from the blunt end. Have you considered trying to find a used set of T5's instread of buying them new? They should be all over ebay

Removing just the snorkel I wouldn't worry about re-jetting....but for the other question, airbox w/no lid compared to pod filters, I imagine you'd need to bump the jets up at least 1 or 2 sizes. When in doubt, check your plugs! :beer:

:ohmy:

^^^^^^^^ :thumbsup:

Do you not think that nut could have just come loose from not tightening it down enough when you put it together? I mean, what happened to you is totally possible, but out of the 4 years I've been riding and 2 years of racing, I've never had that problem and I don't loctite the nut. You are right though, you shouldn't have to adjust that part of your clutch often at all, but I'm just thinking of the long term. Are you talking about using red or blue loctite?

I ran a lockout with no pancake bearing all year last year and had no problems. All I did was run 2 quarts of oil like mentioned above, and never encountered a welded ball and rod, and I'd rev the shit out of my bike with the clutch pulled in... I also wouldn't recommend getting the ceramic ball since I've heard of it shattering to little bitty pieces on more than one occasion. I wouldn't loctite the nut on my clutch adjuster either, that's something you'll want to move later down the road when you need to adjust the clutch. :shrug: I'd just pull it apart, get you a pancake bearing, and run a full 2 quarts of tranny fluid. I use bel ray 85w :beer:

Ahhhhh, OK...I understand now :thumbsup:

I thought you are wrapping the tank, not painting it...Did I misunderstand the post? :shrug:

I haven't had any personal experience with it, but have heard the exact same thing you mentioned.

Try and find some service that your neighborhood may need....wash cars, that should bring in some cash! All you need is a mitt, soap, water, and a bucket. Go to your closest corner store and see if they need someone to stock the coolers and shelves. I used to work at a gas station when I was 15. It wasn't the best but I made 6 bucks an hour to hang out and keep the store stocked If you lived close to Memphis I'd pay you 10 bucks an hour to shovel dirt out of my back yard :thumbsup:

That midrange "miss" was probably a sputter. I agree with Dave, it sounds like it's too rich. Especially if you're going up in jetting and the problem gets worse...think about it. :shrug:

I seriously don't think you'll gain anything by removing the silencers. I would imagine it would hurt performance, and make a huge mess like mentioned above.

If your compression is that low(65/70psi), you're due for a fresh bore and new pistons. If the reeds are original then I would definitely think about swapping those out too :thumbsup: To be totally honest, if it's on the original top end, then I'm pretty sure the bottom end hasn't been touched either. If it were me, I'd completely tear the whole engine down, inspect all parts and make sure they are within spec, replace all crank seals, etc. (clymers manual is very handy for this). It would be a real disappointment to get a fresh top end on it and the bottom end lets go, just my thoughts :beer:

Yes, they would have an effect on the bottom end response. Jetting your carbs pertains to throttle postion, not RPM's. The main jet does in fact start coming into play at 1/4 throttle, may even be a little less, and the needle is what controls how much gas is coming out of the main. The needle doesn't completely plug up the main jet when the throttle is "closed", gas will still flow past it if air is pulling it out. As soon as you hit the throttle, it starts lifting the needle up which sits in the main jet, so yes, zonker is right, the main and needle do have a role in bottom end performance...chill out man :thumbsup:

Like the others said, throw the o-rings away! And I never torqued the 6 bolts for the outer hub/springs...I just tighten them down gradually in a criss cross pattern until they're pretty tight :beer:

I'm the same way.... I had a friend of mine battle a circular saw and had very similar results...I was cutting a board and his dumb ass stuck his finger right in the path of the blade....I felt a thud and heard a scream, LOL, he was missing an 1/8" chunk out the tip of his finger, you could see the bone...when it healed it looked like he had a butt on the end of his finger :yelrotflmao: Ohhhh, the memories