bigboybanshee

A lot of what you're asking depends on the elevation you're at. It'll have an effect on your compression, which in turn will determine what gas you run. What elevation do you ride at? The squish will have to be measured once you put the head on...do you know how to check it? Increasing the compression and advancing the timing should not require a jetting change, but it is always a good thing to check your plugs after you do the mods to ensure you're jetting is correct. :thumbsup:

I have the same problem on mine from time to time...I couldn't tell you exactly what's happening to cause it, maybe the cable stretching? I just adjust it at the clutch lever and it usually fixes it right up :thumbsup:

Don't forget about Twister, and the "new" DM cylinder. :thumbsup:

Pro wedges would be ideal for the dirt, but don't know if he wants to buy a set of tires "just" for dragging. That's why I was thinking maybe a light, decently treaded tire would be more beneficial over the stockers, and he can use them on both applications :thumbsup:

LOL, that's the first thing that I thought of....banshee is telling you something!!! :biggrin:

I would change your gearing and strut it for when you take it to the drags. You'll probably pick up a few tenths of a second just from that. I wouldn't mess with paddles just for dragging, but a good set of dirt tires would give you better traction than what you have now, and could use them for the trails and track....maybe a kenda klaw, or gnarly tire?

I like it, lol...it is DEFINITELY unique!!! Good luck at Pikes Peak, I'd love to be able to run something like that. Please take lots of pics and vids if you can :beer:

Nope!!! :biggrin: Yeah, I'm not stopping till I hit high 3's with this engine and setup...lol I still have a little more to squeeze out of the engine before I throw the gas to it, I'm wanting to get it in the teens on motor alone before spraying it. Thanks! Ironically I found exactly what I was looking for yesterday. Thanks though!! :beer:

Bumping up your compression and advancing your timing will give you a noticeable power gain. That would be my first choice :beer:

I agree. .030-.035 is pushing it. What was the exact number you got when you checked it? Mine is at .039

Let me know when the races get planned, I'll come up and bring a friend or two with me. 7-10 bucks is the typical gate fees, and then there's usually a 20 dollar buy in for the classes, double elimination, and it's 100% payback to the racers. Seems to work well. On average, what kind of bikes would be running out there? That'll help determine what kind of classes to set up. I'll help out as much as I can Oh yeah, definitely work on that shut down, if you want to work the track up to having big bikes come down, you're gonna need a long shut down area, at least another 300'. Most of these drag bikes only have a rear brake, and stopping can be fun, lol

Looking for a nitrous kit...if anyone has a complete one, let me know :beer:

Bump :thumbsup:

I know this is off topic, but why do you refuse do deal with RDZ?

Let's see... Jetting: Won't need to be re-jetted because of the domes, but the changing elevation will require jetting changes. HP: You'll notice more torque Break in again: No, if all you're doing is swapping domes, you won't need to break it in again.

I use 2 full quarts of bel ray 85 weight gear oil. Several people run ATF type F, and I know a couple folks that run Flexdrive, made by klotz.

When I bought it... What happened when I became an active member of BHQ Then I caught a disease... Now the disease has fully taken over... And then I got another one... And it looks like this now...

All 4 of my peg bolt holes on the drag bike are drilled and tapped :biggrin: :ninja:

The spark plug backing out is a good indication of detonation. What kind of gas are you running? Detonation can be caused by more than just an incorrect dome.

Where in Tennessee are you? I'm in Memphis...I might be able to lend a hand if I'm close :beer:

That's got to be it....

This is the pic I wanted to see...Are you able to get it any further on the cylinders? Is the pipe hitting the frame, not allowing you to get it on, or is it stuck on the exhaust flange and not allowing you to move the pipe up far enough to clear the frame? LOL, I'm tempted to go outside and take mine on and off and see if I can duplicate what's happening to you...I would just hate to chalk this up as a loss due to being made for the j-arm frame. See if you can slide it completely on the exhaust flange from any angle, and if you can, then see if you can rotate the pipe around to where it needs to be. I wish I lived closer to help out in person Good luck :beer:

Great guy to deal with...cases were exactly as described and he was quick to ship. Big thanks to you Jeremy!

Yep, those are fmf silencers and have spark arrestors inside the cap. They meet up, but I had to make a connector for them. The PT pipe and FMF pipe both have female connectors, so I had to make a little male connector for the pipes to match up. It was nothing major, just cut a piece of 3/4" OD pipe (if I remember right) and stuck it between them. If you decide you want to go this route (given you get the PT pipes to fit), I'll gladly take some pics of what I did to make them work :beer: Hope you're able to work something out, what you're going through really sucks

I got them from several different places over the years. I use the ones like the bottom one too, I just was going through my bag of jets and saw the other ones and figured I'd ask what the letters mean. :beer: