charles_in_houston

Well, I didn't even know the ball was removed from the mix when you installed it. I can't wrap my brain around how you can place that pancake bearing between the clutch adjuster and pressure plate with a captive nut on the out side holding it tight and get any relief from the rotational force. I guess I just don't know the specifics on how that sucker gets installed. The terms you used are commonplace here at my work. I hadn't even considered it until you mentioned it. Thanks again and if you have time to describe how to install one of those, I think that would answer my questions.

Excellent description! The piece I was missing was the pushrod and its inability to rotate with the clutch pulled in. It makes perfect sense now. Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me. I

I had a similar description in my previous post but it may have gotten lost. I did a search but I

Ok, so let me see if this makes sense. The clutch basket is driven by the motor (crankshaft). The clutch hub inside the clutch basket is directly attached to the transmission. The clutch pressure plate screws into the clutch hub and is therefore also driven by the transmission. The clutch pushrod and ball are inside the clutch hub and pressure plate. If that is correct, then wouldn

From my limited understanding of this problem, pulling in the clutch and revving the engine isn

Where can I get the ceramic ball?

I

IF you still have the clutch basket, let me know. I'll go the $80 your asking shipped. email [email protected] with paypal info.

I need a new clutch basket. Long story short ......a drill and tap went bad and I've lost my forged basket. I'm looking for either a good stocker that dosent have groves in the tabs and no free play (good cushions) or a billet/forged basket.

Send pics of pipes to [email protected] if you still have them. Thanks

Oh, no offence taken. Second and third opinions are what we are on this forum for. Your point was valid and something that I considered myself. The nerf bars were new when I got them. They came in a large UM box with a smaller UM box inside of that which had the pegs and mounting hardware. It was difficult to say if the smaller box inside was just some thrown together hardware with the pegs or if it was supposed to be what came with the nerf bars. The plastic bag in that unsealed smaller box was ripped open at the seam but that could have been though shipping. The inventory of bolts were all there and it wasn't until I tired to actually mount them that I found the ones intended to secure the nerfs to the pegs were the wrong size.

That is for sure a possibility but when they didn't fit that was the first thing that I tried to check. It measures straight. I'm hoping that it was just the ebay sale of the nerf bars. Like I said, I'm hoping that it was just me but they didn't come with all the hardware and I know they were out of wack when I got them. It's just FYI for others that are buying them. Consider it one data point at best.

Ok guys, I've been reading this post and drooling over the possibility. I have since purchased a set of 16.25" works shocks and a set of YFZ450 arms. The a-arms are on the way and the shocks are in the garage. I have also emailed the NOSS group for the billet tie rods and asked if they could make the spacers. I have not heard anything from them in over 5 days. I'm ready to do this so if anyone has any better contacts for the spacers and tie rods please let me know. I'll post the as built photos when I get done but it will be a couple of weeks from now I'm sure. Mullet man....thanks. I owe you a beer or two. You can collect anytime you come down to the Houston area. Just give me a holler and I'll give you a place to stay for the weekend.

If you need any higher quality photos email me at [email protected] and I can send them to you or take new ones that you would like to see.