bigboybanshee

Had a great transaction with bigdaddy69, fast payment, no BS. I appreciate you very much!!!!

We'd be glad to have you anytime you get a wild hair to travel! I have a place for you to crash only 40 minutes from the track...spare bedroom and a big couch, garage for the bikes :beer: We have a lot of fun out there, I always have a good time watching the big bikes fly past me, lol :laugh:

I'm not worried about the red light, it's not always about winning for me, I set personal goals to reach, winning is just a bonus. :biggrin: Yep, 3.83, that was Frank...his bike is hauling ass!! Track is 300 feet. There are now a couple regulars running in the upper 3's, Chad hits 3.77 in the vid I posted of him, Mike Smith also ran a 3.86. :beer: This is Frank's bike

Had a great night, lost almost all my races but improved on my time...ran a 4.21, almost where I wanted to be...Here's a timeslip and a few videos :beer: Frank http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gq3gpwBRlc Frank and I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQowQuGbjmE Randy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a381PuQLiTo Here's some from the previous week that I just got around to uploading http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnXEb1wBsg0 Chad and Mike http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOUwohFf4-o Me http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8FsXPTmG98 Randy and I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLiJJexf0O8 A few stills...

If I were you, I'd go 18cc domes...you could run 17cc's and get more compression, but you'll end up sacrificing some top end. Just my opinion :thumbsup: We'll have to meetup somewhere in the middle and do some racing, we aren't too terribly far from each other

I like running around 175-185psi compression on my drag setup. I'm at sea level-500ft and 18cc domes had me right around 180 last year. What's your elevation? That'll have a factor in what size to get.

Those are my thoughts exactly. I ran them on my old yfz450 and they hooked real hard, excellent trail tire, but wore out fast.

Same to you Dave, I appreciate you always willing to help, it means a lot. Thanks for everything!!!

www.farmandsandsandtoys.com AKA F.A.S.T. Racing AKA FASTOYS, lol $200 bucks + the ride, that includes wheels.

I've got some vforce 3's I'll sell for a good price. They're used, bought them as a spare set but would rather have the cash now....

Congratulations!!! :thumbsup: How much have your times improved on the new chassis?

Yes, they make small bore and big bore out of frame drag pipes. CPI, shearer, GRR, RDZ, they all make both versions. :thumbsup: Rule of thumb I've always gone by, if you're under 500cc, stick with small bore. Over 500cc go big bore.

Here's the way I look at it.... It's the law to have registration and insurance on a vehicle that you drive on a public road. You were on a public road driving an unregistered vehicle with no insurance on it. You broke the law, plea guilty, pay the fines. Why would you try to plea not guilty for something that you obviously did? I'm not trying to be an asshole, I'm just being realistic. I'm also not trying to say don't cruise down the street, cause I do it on occasion...I'm mainly trying to say if you break the law and get caught, pay the price. You have to take responsibility for your actions. :shrug:

I had some 1" risers on my drag bike, I liked it a lot. It's amazing how much difference it made in the overall feel of the bike. I bought them off ebay, for something like 35 bucks. :beer:

How much does he weigh, and how much do you weigh?

I'd go ahead and check the compression Have you pulled the plugs yet to see what they look like?

Your jetting was probably fine, what Dave is trying to say is you didn't have enough fuel in the carb bowls to feed the engine, and it ran lean, locking it up. :thumbsup: Most people that run cubs either put bigger carb bowls on there, or a fuel pump, or both to make sure the engine gets enough fuel so it won't run lean. It's also recommended to drill the hole out bigger in your gas cap, to help the gas flow quicker to the carbs.

Yeah, you'll be just fine with the timing increase. If your compression is over 160psi, then I'd start thinking about a 50/50 mix of pump and race gas, or straight race gas depending on how high the compression is... Just for reference though, on my trail bike I run 93 octane with 159psi compression and +4 timing. No problems so far

Tires would be the first thing on my list to get...Keep the T5's, bump up your compression as much as you can and still be on pump gas, I agree with advancing your timing some more with a real timing plate, and put a strut in the rear, like mentioned before. Gearing will be a must, drop it down to 13/41. If you're a bigger guy like myself, proper gearing can help out a lot. Not sure how nasty the trails are that you ride, but if you can put some pod filters on your stock carbs, that would help out a little too. I personally wouldn't bother with removing the front brakes, to me, that would be a total PITA to continuously take off, and put back on when you hit the trails...you'll notice a difference but not enough to warrant that much work in between trails and track. Also, above all, learn the tree. Your reaction time can be the win or lose factor in a close race. :thumbsup:

Wow, what I would give to weigh that little, lol...half my work would be cut out for me :biggrin:

If I'm not mistaken, yes, there are different thickness of gaskets you can use to seal the head. Worst case scenario, you can buy the gasket material and cut your own, I know a few people that do it that way. You "might" gain some compression by going with a thinner head gasket, but most people change the thickness of the gasket to alter the squish, if it's too high or low. Be careful if you venture up to 3,000 feet. Elevation changes that drastic (0-3,000 feet) is enough to warrant a jetting change. :thumbsup:

I'm not trying to be negative but you'll need a lot more than just cylinders to hit 4.2's! I'm sure they're capable, but you also have to set the whole package up right, meaning with the right parts to compliment the cylinders. Just something else to think of... If you're wanting to go faster than 4.2's, then prepare to spend a good chunk of change, trust me. :thumbsup: How much do you weigh, wallace?

If you were going to strut anything you should strut the rear first, and I'd leave those struts where they're at up front, that's a good heighth. You lose a lot through weight transfer with a shock in the back. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-REA...sspagenameZWDVW

Well, the way we did it was by taking a piece of solder, maybe about 4" long, and made it curve at one end. You pull the spark plug, stick the piece of solder through the hole (the curved end) and push it to where the it's parallel with the piston and at the edge of the dome, then turn the engine over by hand and the piston will squish the solder. Pull the solder out of the hole and measure the squished part with a micrometer, and that number is your squish. Someone may be able to explain it a little better, but that is how it's done. I would recommend doing it a few times just to ensure the number is the same. If you have trouble, I could probably do a tutorial w/ pics for you :beer:

Looks good! Get you some aluminum stock (square tubing) and cut you a new strut. It's easy, works well, and you can cut it the length you need it. Don't cut the stock springs, once you do...that's it.