bigboybanshee

I take my trail bike through mud all the time. I just haven't been riding in a while, lol...once the racing season is over I'll get more seat time in the trails. I used to take my old 450 through the mud too, this was a fun day Here is the banshee I traded my 450 for in the mud as well. :biggrin:

I had to have my frame welded about a month ago and I didn't unplug anything. Ran my best time at the track right afterwards :smile:

32:1 is fine with most oils. Some prefer 40:1 or 50:1. If you're unsure, just run high octane gas until you can find out what the compression is...

You can't expect a plethora of responses overnight, relax :thumbsup: If you're gonna be going up a hill where you might still need some "stability" from the rear end, I would recommend using the second spot from all the way in....

I always prefer it when she blows :thumbsup:

I'm going to outlaw sand drags this Saturday night in northern Alabama, if anyone is nearby and wants to come on down it should be a good time. There's a group of us from Memphis/Mississippi going :beer: Here's the website for the drag strip http://web.mac.com/outlawsanddrags/iWeb/ww...s.com/HOME.html

Once you run with marvins on the front you'll never want to run strutted up front again...trust me, I know. Rigid frames are technically the best thing for racing a groomed track, but if you're running a stock framed bike I highly recommend strut in the rear, shocks up front

A lot of people on a budget use 300ex shocks. They are a good length and work well if you're only dragging. I've been told they bolt right up. :thumbsup:

No BS, quick to pay, very easy to work with...it has been a pleasure!!!! Hope the paddles work out for you. Thanks!!! Travis

That IS strange...is this happening intermittently or only once the bike is hot? Have you checked your reeds to make sure the heat wrap didn't get in there and jam up one of the petals, maybe causing it to stick open? If it made it to the front of the carb there is a chance some got in your intakes too.

LOL, I feel your pain, I deal with them too on the way to and from work...I come as close as I can without hitting them, the ones that really piss me off are the ones that ride far from the curb and take up the lane...then I just hold my horn down and they move over...I need me one of those air horns, that'll get the point across :biggrin:

lol, it shouldn't take you 10 minutes unless you break something major!! I'd guess low 15's to high 14's on a "stock" 5.0 with a good pass.

Honestly I don't know...never tried!! I bought a Noss head, don't have to change anything, bolts right up :thumbsup:

There's a guy I race with that was talking about buying a "new" drag banshee, I'll see if he's interested, that's a good price you're listing it for. :beer:

I thought you were running a stock shaved head? Or am I thinking of someone else? I had 18cc domes in my bike last year with a drag port and had 180psi. I'm at 400' above sea level. 17cc domes will probably put you around 190psi or so, which is quite a bit. I dropped my compression almost 10psi this year to 172psi and could tell a difference in the higher RPM's. :shrug:

I totally agree with you, and have a friend of mine that's wondering why his top end pull is gone w/210psi. His bike launches very hard and pulls hard till about half track and then it just seems to lose it's pull. Too much compression WILL kill your power on the higher RPM's

I'm no pipe expert by any means but the stingers are important to the tuning of the pipe. It just may have enough impact to effect the way it performs in a certain RPM range. Like I said though, I'm by far no expert on pipe building, this is just based off what I've heard

Yes. Some pipes have unique identifiers, like GRR's have a straight stinger for the small bores and the big bores have a little tip on the end of the stinger pointing out. I'm not too familiar with CPI's though

Yes, it definitely matters which head you use to check the squish. Are the cylinders ported? If they are, the porting can cause a decrease in compression. :shrug:

It is an NHRA track, a nice one too. Basically as long as your car isn't falling apart you can run out there for T-N-T or midnight madness. They do have a tech inspection but all they do is look under your hood, make sure you have all your lug nuts and proper safety equipment for your vehicle. In your case, as it sits you should be just fine. I used to run all my cars out there, not once did I ever have a problem with the tech inspection. If you run in the 12's, you need a helmet, and I think if you hit the 10's, you need a roll cage...it's been a while but I think that's how it went.... I don't think you have to worry about these times just yet, lol. :thumbsup:

Replace those mounts and bring it to Memphis, we'll throw a bottle on it and run it up the 1/4 mile track!!! :woot: I got a room for you to stay the night in....let me know!

4 snows have a really soft tread and they tend to fold over, especially when you run low pressure in them. If you could get your hands on some wedges you'd probably pick up a little bit on your runs. But, in the mean time, try running a little more pressure in the tires, maybe between 4-5 psi and see if it helps out. It'll help prevent the tread from folding over. :thumbsup:

If you have the option of powdercoat that would be MUCH better and last longer. Paint is going to start coming off the first time you take it in the sand, just my opinion though.

Yep, practice is the key. Track conditions and tire pressure also have a big role in it as well. I still have trouble sometimes with it wanting to bog on the high end, I'm always messing with different variables to get it right. It's neverending, lol! What tire pressure do you normally run?

TORS are the big dinosaur looking doohickys on top of your stock carbs. They are prone to early failure causing issues with how the bike runs. (Throttle Over Ride System) People generally remove them because 1. It makes it easier to work on the carbs, 2. They eliminate a weak point on the bike and prevent the issue from occuring in the first place. It looks better without them too. But, you don't have to remove them if you're not having any problems. You won't get any performance gains either.